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Did I "break" my 7700k?

post #1 of 28
Thread Starter 
I replaced my Kraken X52 with a Celsius S36 so I can integrate it later on with a loop...well ever since I removed the cpu (to clean and reapply new thermal paste I cannot activate XMP for my memory (Trident Z RGB 3600). as soon as my rebooted my PC from the switch I had multiple errors showing up on the BIOS Board...a couple times it gave me an A6 ERROR and would force me to load default bios and other times it would give me a 32 ERROR and just not boot at all...I had to use the backup bios to go back in and disable XMP. It seems I can only put the memory @ 2400mhz now...I have tried to mess with the voltage a bit on the memory...I have tried a couple of different settings but everything just does not seem to work...anything else just locks up the boot...anyone have ideas?

My equipment is:

Gigabyte Gaming SOC Z270x motherboard
i7-7700k @ 4.8ghz @ 1.32v
Trident Z DDR4 3600


Thank you!
    
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post #2 of 28
You could try reseating the CPU and remounting cooler
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post #3 of 28
Thread Starter 
I tried that right after it didnt work thinking I had something all messed up...
    
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post #4 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by smithsrt8 View Post

I tried that right after it didnt work thinking I had something all messed up...

Did you mount the new cooler properly (ie. proper contact with the CPU IHS, everything plugged in, etc)? I am not sure if it includes a metal bracket or something that could come in contact with the PCB. Make sure it is all properly mounted and nothing is shorting out, etc.

Are you able to boot into Windows? Are temps normal? Clear CMOS and try everything at stock. Alternatively try reseating the CPU again and remounting the cooler. If all else fails you can try to go back to the old one and see if it works.
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post #5 of 28
Sounds like a bad seat, but honestly I'd return that thing if you plan on expanding the loop. While it's waterblock is made of copper the radiator is made of aluminum, which leads to galvanic corrosion, which will eat the components on your loop.
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post #6 of 28
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by fil1p View Post

Did you mount the new cooler properly (ie. proper contact with the CPU IHS, everything plugged in, etc)? I am not sure if it includes a metal bracket or something that could come in contact with the PCB. Make sure it is all properly mounted and nothing is shorting out, etc.

Are you able to boot into Windows? Are temps normal? Clear CMOS and try everything at stock. Alternatively try reseating the CPU again and remounting the cooler. If all else fails you can try to go back to the old one and see if it works.

I double checked and made sure it was seated correctly...the bracket it comes with is plastic (just like NXZT's brackets so that doesn't seem to be screwing with the PCB....my temps are better than they ever were before (33-35 idle where I was about 38-40 idle with the x52)...I can boot into windows with the 2nd boot option that my motherboard has so I have that fail safe...
    
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post #7 of 28
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by claes View Post

Sounds like a bad seat, but honestly I'd return that thing if you plan on expanding the loop. While it's waterblock is made of copper the radiator is made of aluminum, which leads to galvanic corrosion, which will eat the components on your loop.

My plan was to wait until EKWB releases its full water board for my gpu then I will...I have heard that the aluminum radiator was not the best...however is it really that bed...I know their rads are copper internals but they are aluminum fins and main...To my knowledge it is a lot like radiators for cars where as they flow through the copper and never truly make contact with the aluminum
    
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post #8 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by smithsrt8 View Post

I double checked and made sure it was seated correctly...the bracket it comes with is plastic (just like NXZT's brackets so that doesn't seem to be screwing with the PCB....my temps are better than they ever were before (33-35 idle where I was about 38-40 idle with the x52)...I can boot into windows with the 2nd boot option that my motherboard has so I have that fail safe...
How did you double-check?

It might be worth reseating the cooler - assuming the pump is working then your temperatures should've been within tolerances after you reset the CMOS. My initial thought with reseating is that you might have overtightened the cooler (you could test this just by loosening the bracket's screws - they should only be hand tight).
Quote:
Originally Posted by smithsrt8 View Post

My plan was to wait until EKWB releases its full water board for my gpu then I will...I have heard that the aluminum radiator was not the best...however is it really that bed...I know their rads are copper internals but they are aluminum fins and main...To my knowledge it is a lot like radiators for cars where as they flow through the copper and never truly make contact with the aluminum
The old Kelvin kits used copper radiators but the new Celsius kits use aluminum radiators.

You can see it's implications here: https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2012/01/24/corrosion-explored/

You could use radiator fluid or antifreeze, but it won't be as efficient as water.
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finally quiet
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Peggy
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post #9 of 28
How do the socket pins and processor pads look?
post #10 of 28
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by claes View Post

How did you double-check?

It might be worth reseating the cooler - assuming the pump is working then your temperatures should've been within tolerances after you reset the CMOS. My initial thought with reseating is that you might have overtightened the cooler (you could test this just by loosening the bracket's screws - they should only be hand tight).
The old Kelvin kits used copper radiators but the new Celsius kits use aluminum radiators.

You can see it's implications here: https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2012/01/24/corrosion-explored/

You could use radiator fluid or antifreeze, but it won't be as efficient as water.

I will attempt a re-seat...I am going to probably just do it when my new cpu block gets in...I am able to use the computer fine right now @ 4.8ghz and 2400mhz on the ram...I took a look at the socket pins and cpu socket on the board and other than a little bit of "blue-ing" from the temps it seems all good...I have never had something like this happen before so I am a little confused and about 20 re-flashes on the Bios later it still isnt fixed...
    
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EK XE360 Radiator HWLabs 240 GTR Radiator EK Supremacy Evo Elite EK Aorus 1080 ti GPU Full Block 
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Windows 10 Home Dell s2716dg Dell s2716dg Steelseries Apex M800 
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i7-7700k @ 5ghz EVGA Classified K Z270 Gigabyte Aorus 1080 ti  evga 1080 ti ftw3 
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G.Skill Trident Z RGB 32gb Plextor M8PE Boot Drive 256GB Samsung 960 Pro 1TB Gaming Drive Seagate Storage Drive 2TB 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
EK XE360 Radiator HWLabs 240 GTR Radiator EK Supremacy Evo Elite EK Aorus 1080 ti GPU Full Block 
OSMonitorMonitorKeyboard
Windows 10 Home Dell s2716dg Dell s2716dg Steelseries Apex M800 
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