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1080ti underwater insane high temps.

post #1 of 66
Thread Starter 
I just moved up from my trusty 780ti Iv'e had for what...almost 3 years now? Had an EK full cover block on that the whole time, never saw temps above the 40s under extreme synthetic loads. Kepler ran hot, i cranked it up even more. I purchased a 1080ti FE and the EK Titan XP full cover block, gleefully installed it ...drained the old loop (was time to change the fluid anyways, been a year...i change her yearly) filled it up and fired up Furmark to see what we looked like.

The numbers were puzzling...how could the 1080ti be putting up worse numbers than my 780ti?
Throttling my friends....she was COOKING at 91 and throttling WAY down. At 11pm I didn't want to deal. So i went to bed puzzled.

I opened her up today.... drained it..pulled the block apart... TIM looks like it spread nicely on the die...nothing looked out of place or anything. cleaned it...reapplied TIM , stuck it back together. It fit together like a glove. Nothing felt like it fought me anywhere. Stuck it back in...refilled...you guys know the hour and half long process by now too I'm sure.

Temps...still suck under benching!!!! Soon as the bench ends, drops down to 22c within matter of 3/4 seconds. So heat IS being moved away, just not effectively. Any ideas? mad.gif

Both of my pumps seem to be humming along well, I have clear hardline, so i can see flow looks great.


Not my first go at a GPU block, its my third...And i KNOW someone will say i have the in flow and out flow in line, i do not. =P In flow is upper left, outflow is bottom right.

If anyone has ideas, please...id love to know. Only thing im thinking of trying is turning the pumps up a tad...but then again, they dealt with my 780ti just fine, and water hits a equilibrium with temp quite quickly anyways.




HELP headscratch.gif
post #2 of 66
Do you have a temp sensor in your water loop? If so, it might help determine if the heat is actually moving into the water or not... It sounds like it's not (even though the GPU temp drops after turning off your benchmark.)

Having the in/out backwards on EK's GPU block wouldn't make that much of a difference. In fact, on nearly all the previous 10x0 blocks, they document that it doesn't matter which is used as inlet and outlet.

Silly question, but sometimes we all miss the obvious: Was there any type of protective sticker on the GPU block that you might have forgotten to remove?

Some more "obvious" questions. (Not to be insulting, but sometimes double checking things can help...)

You mentioned that you pulled the block and re-applied your thermal paste... Did you use the SAME thermal paste? If so, perhaps try with a different paste. (Not likely, but it's possible you have a bad batch of paste.)

Can you verify that water IS actually moving through the block? (If your pump pushes all the air out, then water is probably moving through... but if you have a parallel loop and clear fluid, it might be difficult to tell if the block is full of water or full of air.)

Is it possible that you chipped the GPU die when putting on the block? (Not sure if that would cause the problem, but I know that many years ago, before CPU's had heat spreaders, a chipped die that still worked often would get very hot.)

Perhaps if you post a photo of your loop, someone might notice something...
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i7-7700K Asus ROG Maximus IX Hero Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 G1 Gaming 4x 8GB Vengeance LPX Series 
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i7-7700K Asus ROG Maximus IX Hero Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 G1 Gaming 4x 8GB Vengeance LPX Series 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
1TB Samsung EVO 960 NVME M.2 custom loop: Supremacy EVO, hwlabs 360GTS Radi... Windows 10 Pro x64 Asus PB328Q 32" WQHD 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Asus 25" 16:10 (forgot the model number) Ducky Shine 5 EVGA SuperNOVA 650 G2  Corsair Crystal Series 460X RGB 
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Logitech G900 Corsair MM300 
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post #3 of 66
i'd pull the block off and see what things look like there. something isn't right.

(also, why are people still using furmark? thats the one thing that can kill a GPU if something went wrong and the gpu wasn't being cooled)
post #4 of 66
Thread Starter 
I'll drain and pull it off and look again, but I'd highly doubt I left a sticker of any sort on there. Certainly not insulting questions as you aren't here to see all I have done! I did use the same TIM. I've been using the same system builder size tube of AS5 for years for everything from GPUs/CPU/ and the odd time someone asked for blocks on their RAM (REALLY people RAM doesn't get that hot. Just saying)

I absolutely can verify fluid is moving as I have clear hardline and red coolant flowing into a tube resrvioir. Commotion and flow is very evident.

I don't think its chipped, I cleaned off and observed the die when I reseated it today. Unless it cracked along the edge where it's adhered to the PCB and snuck by my gaze.

My loop IS certainly a bit strange order, and a rad does kill flow before it goes through the CPU and then GPU blocks.

Two d5 pumps>EK Coolstream 420 rad>Black Ice Nemesis GTX 480 rad > EK Supremacy CPU block > titan X Pascal block > bitspower tank Z 250

It's unconventional for sure that I have the rads before the blocks...but I NEVER had ANY issues with my 780ti. I don't think loop order is any issue here. I have more radiator space than a compact car at that.
post #5 of 66
my strix 1080ti has never even broke 50C under water. Double check that there's no components causing the gpu block to not seat all the way to the die. i know the titan x blocks should work just fine on 1080ti but might want to make sure everything is good as far as gpu block fitment goes.
post #6 of 66
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by IMI4tth3w View Post

my strix 1080ti has never even broke 50C under water. Double check that there's no components causing the gpu block to not seat all the way to the die. i know the titan x blocks should work just fine on 1080ti but might want to make sure everything is good as far as gpu block fitment goes.

It seems to fit like a glove both times I've put the block on. I don't feel anything bumping or blocking.
post #7 of 66
Try and look at the PCB while you have the block and backplate on. In a good amount of ambient light see if the PCB is bent. Had this happen to me in my old 980 ti, and my temps where all over the place.
Was alittle hard to figure out what was wrong at first since when I took it apart the tim spread looked nice, but after I took everything apart again and took a really close look EK for some reason have sent the wrong thermal pads included with the block so they where to thick over the VRM`s = bent PCB = bad contact.

But you should be able to see it if you have placed the wrong thermal pads at the wrong place or if you have gotten wrong pads. There will be a slight bend in the pcb. It should be straight as an arrow after the block and backplate is installed.
Edited by Cooked CPU - 6/11/17 at 4:21am
post #8 of 66
How is your cpu temps look like?
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Intel i5 7600k MSI Z270 CARBON MSI 1080 Ti FE GSKILL RIPJAW V 
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SSD SAMSUNG 850 EVO 500GB CRUCIAL M.2 MX300 275GB Custom CPU+GPU WC Loop Windows 10 
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Heaven's Fall
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i5 7600k MSI Z270 CARBON MSI 1080 Ti FE GSKILL RIPJAW V 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
SSD SAMSUNG 850 EVO 500GB CRUCIAL M.2 MX300 275GB Custom CPU+GPU WC Loop Windows 10 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
DELL S2716DG Razer Chroma CORSAIR HX1000i CORSAIR OBSIDIAN 750D AIR FLOW 
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RAZER MAMBA 2012 Asus Raid Strix Pro, LOGITECH Z5500, SENNHEISER... APC Back-UPS PRO 900  
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post #9 of 66
Temps that high can only be a block problem, most likely a contact issue.

A picture of the system and of the TIM print on the block will make it far easier for people to help without guesses.
post #10 of 66
Quote:
Originally Posted by dumbcow1 View Post

I'll drain and pull it off and look again, but I'd highly doubt I left a sticker of any sort on there. Certainly not insulting questions as you aren't here to see all I have done! I did use the same TIM. I've been using the same system builder size tube of AS5 for years for everything from GPUs/CPU/ and the odd time someone asked for blocks on their RAM (REALLY people RAM doesn't get that hot. Just saying)

I absolutely can verify fluid is moving as I have clear hardline and red coolant flowing into a tube resrvioir. Commotion and flow is very evident.

I don't think its chipped, I cleaned off and observed the die when I reseated it today. Unless it cracked along the edge where it's adhered to the PCB and snuck by my gaze.

My loop IS certainly a bit strange order, and a rad does kill flow before it goes through the CPU and then GPU blocks.

Two d5 pumps>EK Coolstream 420 rad>Black Ice Nemesis GTX 480 rad > EK Supremacy CPU block > titan X Pascal block > bitspower tank Z 250

It's unconventional for sure that I have the rads before the blocks...but I NEVER had ANY issues with my 780ti. I don't think loop order is any issue here. I have more radiator space than a compact car at that.

The only things i can think of are:
1. Blockage on the jetplate (if your block is clear plexi you can easily see this)
2. AS5 TIM is the problem. IIRC it needs curing time.

You can try using some cheap thermal paste like MX-4 and see if that makes a difference.
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