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Jumping from 3570k

237 views 4 replies 3 participants last post by  kmac20 
#1 ·
Hey whats up guys, been awhile. Basically been holding my computer together with duct tape. Im pretty sure the board is bad, which sucks because I dont really need a better CPU per se, but I need to just build a whole new computer cause of a few issues.

I'm using a 3570k and using the integrated graphics right now until I get the money for a whole new build. I'm wondering

7600k

or

AMD 1600 / 1600x?

I live near a microcenter, prices are fairly cheap all around.

After reading a few more reviews, it sounds like the AMD is the better bang for the buck, but also a bit picky on RAM and such. Long as I can find a combo I'm good. Never used AMD before but more than happy to switch if it'll last longer and is better for the same price.
 
#3 ·
I was pretty sure I would be going with amd this time.

I guess its worth asking is it worth the extra like 20-30$ to lose the heatsink? Cause again I live down the street from a microcenter, and I"m pretty sure the 1600 is 200$ flat, and the 1600x is about 229$.

Also I noticed it said the 1600x has no integrated graphics, same true of the plain 1600? Just curious there. Again about a 30$ diff price plus whatever the cooler costs.
 
#4 ·
None of the current Ryzen line has an iGPU, that feature is coming in the Athlon series APUs. Any board with a graphics connector on it will only be able to use it with an APU.
The 1600x is better binned, and has faster base and boost clocks. Even if you don't overclock yourself, it's faster. Yes, you're paying 30 bucks extra for the chip and need to add another 30 or more for a cooler.
Base clock on the 1600x is the same as boost clock on the 1600 ( 3.6Ghz) and the boost clock on the 1600x is 4GHz. Yeah it's another 60 bucks at least with the cooler, but you're asking here... it's not like it'll run at stock ever... right?
 
#5 ·
Probably an accurate statement.

IN ADVANCE: THANK YOU TO ANYONE WHO READ WHAT I"VE WRITTEN AND WHAT I"M GOING FOR, AND THANK YOU FOR ANY ADVICE YOU HAVE GIVEN ME

Just heres my thing: this integrated GPU on this intel has SAVED MY ****IN ASS over the last year. It has not only allowed me to keep playing DOTA (though ironically its not strong enough to run friggin KOTOR2 outside of legacypc mode, which sucks because that removes xinput support) but simply allowed me to keep.....having entertainment.

I dont have a cable box or anything separate. I do all my entertainment consumption through my pc, which is hooked up both to a samsung 720p television (pretty good quality aside from the refresh rate) and a like 15 year old + 5:4 17" dell sharpscreen. Ironically this old as a 100 year old granny monitor has a refresh rate of 75hz, which i always appreciated for games like counter strike.

However since everything but widescreen has gone the way of the dodo bird, thats another cost i'll hvae to incur: a GOOD monitor.

Again though, this integrated GPU saved my friggin ass, and I cannot ignore that truly.

So UNLESS I HAVE TWO DEAD GPUS, the motherboard is the issue. Which sucks. And I HIGHLY DOUBT I have a dead 7850 and a dead 88gt that was BRAND NEW SENT FROM EVGA (I have a lifetime warranty on it, and an 88GT will play almost anything up until about what 5-10 years back? And even after that you can use it to run stuff on lower settings, or considering I run at 1280x1024, even some newer games medium or up.

When I get a new board, cpu, etc, i intend to test these GPUS and see if BOTH ARE ACTUALLY DEAD> if its the gpus, well thats easy enough, i keep the board and cpu, build a new computer, use this one as a media center of sorts. If not, well then I mail back the 88GT, get another new one (remember this is like what, 15 yeras after that card came out? GOTTA LOVE EVGA LIFETIME WARRANTY! Too bad they dont do it anymore, it was always a huge selling point for me).

But no, the AMD will be overclocked
. I used to try to get the highest max out of it without regard for anything else, but now i'd settle for a modest bump that doesn't really mess with the voltage that much. I like to future proof my rigs (heck this ones still limpin along like 6 years later and it would be workin fine still if I either didn't short out the board myself, or if it didn't die on me from an old powersupply giving it some bad volts.

I have a new PSU so I doubt thats the problem now, its a Corsair HX 750 (got it on sale a summer or two ago at microcenter: figured if that fixed my issues, great, if not i have a really solid respectable power supply thats gonna last me a good while, so thats the only part I have down like I said (aside from I guess ome hard drives I keep just carrying over instead of buying a new 1TB one for example because I'm lazy and dont want to move all my files lol).

BUT YOU ARE CORRECT: I WILL be overclocking this. The thing I've been considering actually is doing my first water cooled system: Air cooled has ALWAYS served my needs well: I"ve always picked the best "bang for the buck" coolers (like I do with every part, because I NEED these systems to last me minimum several years, i dont have tons of disposable income) and they've always served me well keeping my CPU temps pretty low because of my chip lottery luck, sometimes it overclocks a bit less, sometimes a LOT (my e6420 C2Duo overclocked so insanely high that it was almost unbelievable). Anyway the reason I'm considering water cooling isnt necessarily because i think i'll get a much higher overclock out of it, or even desire one past what I can achieve on air cooling, but is for this simple reason: my room has a single window, which means ZERO air circulation. When this monster runs, my room heats up like a sauna, and I live right near NYC. The summers here can hit 90-100 with 80-100% humidity, so it makes my room NEARLY IMPOSSIBLE to stay in. Like I'll have to give up on playin dota sometimes in the summer because my room gets SO FRIGGIN HOT.

SO, I'm hoping that the water cooling will help manage heat a bit better, and direct the hot air flow in a certain direction to help me so I dont' lose 10lbs of water and salt from sweating from my old NZXT Nemesis elite case (yes, i'm STILL USING THIS CASE 20 years later) which is at the point where I have it literally held to gether with duct tape and nearly every single fan on the thing is broken. Obviously this doesn't really help the temperature issues in my room but its also a really really oversized case for now a days, which had no focus on being silent back then but rather being a monster with cool features they wanted to show off (example it had its own built in temp sensors, which while not perfect would put out information onto a built in cheap basic LCD screen).

ANYWAY SORRY FOR A LONG RESPONSE, I just wanted to give you all an idea of

1) what I plan to build
2) What i plan to attempt to get out of it
3) what I would like to do differently this time in order to better manage temperature, because honestly it is nearly impossible to deal with a near 24/7 running pc in a room with no circulation in an area of the country where it gets up to 90F+ along with 80-99% humidity, and if you've never dealt with humidity like that let me give an example comparison here: I visited Dallas Texas a coiuple years back, it was easily 100F+ every single day i was there sometimes higher. It felt like 88F here because there was no humidity and it was dry heat. When it hits over 100F here with that humidity, I am nearly incapacitated, and with the heat from my PC pumping out into this room its nearly uninhabitable.

ONCE AGAIN: THANK YOU TO ANYONE WHO READ WHAT I"VE WRITTEN AND WHAT I"M GOING FOR, AND THANK YOU FOR ANY ADVICE YOU HAVE GIVEN ME
 
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