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AMD Ryzen Threadripper Owners Club - 1950X | 1920X | 1900X - Page 238

post #2371 of 2862
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aby67 View Post

I think when given a choice best to avoid plastic, but it is understandable that it some people want to see the water or the colour in the loop....XSPC a has moved to special glass for the 1080ti block , while glass still scratches a lot with water, it is not as bad as plastic....if You like that block just clean it once in a while eg every 6 months.

Yea I mean my loop is base of dark rubber tube but I may go hard tube next year. I open the packaged but have not installed the block. So I still have maybe a change to get it replaced if anything. smile.gif

On a side note anyone recommend a hard tube tool kit that I can order online?
     
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post #2372 of 2862
Quote:
Originally Posted by ITAngel View Post

Yea I mean my loop is base of dark rubber tube but I may go hard tube next year. I open the packaged but have not installed the block. So I still have maybe a change to get it replaced if anything. smile.gif

On a side note anyone recommend a hard tube tool kit that I can order online?
I have those EK Rubber tubes, i bought them because i wanted some tubes that can be more strong than regular ones as I use a big external waterbox for cooling...when i first received them i really had to wash them a lot in water cause they are really dirty out of the box...back them i suspected that i would get the lop become a mess very fast..to my surprise it didnt, bu tif u go all copper hard tubing awesome solution because these tubes i got take a very long time to cool down as they retain a lot of heat, for along time.....as for the block go with what you fancy, but think of maintenace..I prefer all copper blocks because they dissipate passively heat so the loop cools down faster when u stop loads....its little things but to me even if u can get 1 C lower temps it matters...im that kind of freak for this kind of things...You dont need to smile.gif
post #2373 of 2862
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dotachin View Post

Does anyone have any issues formatting sata drives?

Trying to set my 1TB SSD as MBR NTFS and Disk Manager freezes, Mini Tool Partition Wizard says success instantly but leaves the drive unformatted.
The drive works just fine in my Sandy Bridge system.

I have the latest chipset drivers, is there a sata AMD driver around?
(OS is in a pcie nvme thankfully)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dotachin View Post

Yeah, I only downloaded the mini tool after the third-time disk manager crashed.
I really think it's a driver issue, sometimes Windows takes forever to load if I leave the drive plugged (sometimes it never does). It feels like it sees it but can't read or write even at 1mbs.
I have a sata Blu-ray drive that works fine though.
Wondering if anyone else had the problem.

update: I downloaded and installed AMD SATA Controller version 1.3.1.276 (date 03/19/2015) . But when I go to Device Manager to update the ssd controller, the only one shown is a Microsoft one from 2006. I'm certain this controller is the problem. I can't pick up the AMD one even when booted to the "enable unsigned controllers" mode in Windows 10. Not even in test mode, it just doesn't pick up amdsata.inf as a valid controller for a drive.

If I take the ssd and put it in a USB case and plug it in it works flawlessly rolleyes.gif

@chew* Do you know anything about a properly signed AMD Sata driver?

ps: would anyone with a sata ssd/hdd go to device manager and tell me which driver are you using, please? Thanks thumb.gif

Ps2 when I say controller I mean driver. Translation problem xD
Edited by Dotachin - 11/19/17 at 4:10pm
post #2374 of 2862
Quote:
Originally Posted by mmonnin View Post

GN did a tear-down of the Liqtech. Nice big ol' fin area.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5i4_kI_FTG8&t=0s

 

Good to know, I have the 360 variant of that cooler and I can tell you it performs great.

post #2375 of 2862
Quote:
Originally Posted by ITAngel View Post

So did I ended up grabbing the wrong block for my Vega card? I got the one that had acrylic. Maybe I should have gotten the all black one that was all metal.

Acrylic is fine as long as you keep it under 50C, with lower being better. Remember that the cooling engine itself is copper or nickel plated copper, so GPU teps can go as high as they want.

The only way to get acrylic to 50C is with water temps of 50C, at which point die temps would probably be 80C on the GPU. You won't have that problem so you should be fine.

There are people on this forum with 10+ year old acrylic blocks that still function and look good. Just flush your loop once a year and you'll be fine as long as you use a decent biocide (corrosion inhibitor too if you want to keep your nickel and copper shiny).
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post #2376 of 2862
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dotachin View Post


update: I downloaded and installed AMD SATA Controller version 1.3.1.276 (date 03/19/2015) . But when I go to Device Manager to update the ssd controller, the only one shown is a Microsoft one from 2006. I'm certain this controller is the problem. I can't pick up the AMD one even when booted to the "enable unsigned controllers" mode in Windows 10. Not even in test mode, it just doesn't pick up amdsata.inf as a valid controller for a drive.

If I take the ssd and put it in a USB case and plug it in it works flawlessly rolleyes.gif

@chew* Do you know anything about a properly signed AMD Sata driver?

ps: would anyone with a sata ssd/hdd go to device manager and tell me which driver are you using, please? Thanks thumb.gif

Ps2 when I say controller I mean driver. Translation problem xD

if you mean the standard ahci controller Microsoft 10.0.16299.15

I have tried amd ones t=and they go pear shaped in 5 seconds.
as for the ssd and nvme I sue the latest Samsung ones haven't had an issue with any drive or the blu ray (since that is what I,m using to back up my 4k worth of dvds I would hope not smile.gif
post #2377 of 2862
Guys it apparently seems confirmed..... EPYC on 7nm 64 cores 256Mb cache and freaking 3200Mhz ECC memory...all on 128 PCIe GEN 4

Looks like that at AMD they have been working hard on the memory controller and Samsung having Aces up their RAM sleeves.

8 months from now it will become an epyc year for Threadripper:rolleyes:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KEU6gk8N5yc
Motherboard manufacturers on x399 better put their **** together just as some water cooling components manufacturing companies by then, I dont wanna make names Asu..coughs s coughs coughs E...coughs K.

Any educated idea on likely Clock and Ram speeds for a 32 Core 7nm TR?
Edited by Aby67 - 11/20/17 at 3:43pm
post #2378 of 2862
Quote:
Originally Posted by tarot View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

if you mean the standard ahci controller Microsoft 10.0.16299.15

I have tried amd ones t=and they go pear shaped in 5 seconds.
as for the ssd and nvme I sue the latest Samsung ones haven't had an issue with any drive or the blu ray (since that is what I,m using to back up my 4k worth of dvds I would hope not smile.gif

Ty I just solved it minutes ago.
I tried so many things idk what did the trick (turned out the AMD driver was to be installed over the default one under ATA/ATAPI IDE branch in device manager [unchecking the "show only compatible" box], but that alone didn't fix it I had to update the firmware of the Crucial SSD and to do that succesfuly I had to remove the drive from my ICY DOCK 6 x 2.5 SSD cage and plug it directly to the mobo for some reason otherwise it failed to update. Anyway I was finally able to format the drive and just copied some files to it and evrything is finally ready in the build biggrin.gif Now to dowload some games

ps yeah idk if it was their fault but I won't be buying Crucial SSDs for a while
post #2379 of 2862
Man, this is super frustrating. I have been trying to get my RAM to 3200MHz stable and I just can't. I have been trying for a month now and nothing. No timing or voltage will let me get my ram stable above 3033MHz.

I think I really have a crappy IMC.

This is as far as I have gotten to a 24/7 stable OC.

I have a 64GB kit with Samsung B-die. Corsair CMR64GX4M4C3333C16 VENGEANCE RGB 64GB DDR4 3333 (PC4-26600)

My SOC voltage is 1.1v.
My DRAM voltage is 1.4v
My VTT DDR voltage is 0.7v

    
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post #2380 of 2862
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fantasy View Post

Man, this is super frustrating. I have been trying to get my RAM to 3200MHz stable and I just can't. I have been trying for a month now and nothing. No timing or voltage will let me get my ram stable above 3033MHz.

I think I really have a crappy IMC.

This is as far as I have gotten to a 24/7 stable OC.

I have a 64GB kit with Samsung B-die. Corsair CMR64GX4M4C3333C16 VENGEANCE RGB 64GB DDR4 3333 (PC4-26600)

My SOC voltage is 1.1v.
My DRAM voltage is 1.4v
My VTT DDR voltage is 0.7v

you saying you cant run 3333 even starting with 20 20 20 40?
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