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Problem with EVGA 1080 TI Black SC Gaming Artifacts

3K views 23 replies 3 participants last post by  crash4fun 
#1 ·
Hi guys, Yesterday I took the stock cooler of the GPU and put on a Kraken G12 bracket with a NZXT X62 cooler, Needless to say I took it back off after 10 minutes and put the stock cooler back on, but today once I have started using my PC again games are crashing after 15-20 seconds, Fallout 4 was working but I was getting multi-coloured artifacts appearing on screen(Green/Purples) so I've shut it down, Temps are fine 41c idle after just closing fallout 4, I am using Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut on the GPU.

Any advice I would appreciate it..
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#2 ·
maybe go over how you swapped the coolers and make sure everything is correct.

did you have to mess with the thermal pads on the vrms and what not?

have you monitored while gaming?

did you do anything to "help" that AIO fit?

and i gotta ask, why take the AIO off?
 
#3 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by looniam View Post

maybe go over how you swapped the coolers and make sure everything is correct.

did you have to mess with the thermal pads on the vrms and what not?

have you monitored while gaming?

did you do anything to "help" that AIO fit?

and i gotta ask, why take the AIO off?
I did mess with the vrm thermal pads as they fell off etc some broke up so i put some different thermal pads on; i am on phone atm looking at the card does the silver things in the middle of the picture need a thermal pad?
 
#4 ·
idk, it's sorta had to tell with a small view and angle compared to looking at a tear down image from TPU.



they don't look covered but there is 2 strips. mind you that is for the SC (non "black") but i would believe the cooling solution afa thermal pads would be the same.
 
#5 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by looniam View Post

idk, it's sorta had to tell with a small view and angle compared to looking at a tear down image from TPU.



they don't look covered but there is 2 strips. mind you that is for the SC (non "black") but i would believe the cooling solution afa thermal pads would be the same.
I am on my PC to check it out again, I had a thermal pad basically in the middle of those 2 white thermal pads you see on your picture there, The reason I took the AIO out was not really itself but more of the G12 bracket I found the product horrendous as there was cables everywhere and the installation process was terrible, The AIO tubes could barely reach to my PCIE slot without a lot of effort/Problem solving, I have monitored temps while trying to game they were fine.
 
#6 ·
CPU was max temp of 52, GPU was 48 max while trying to play playerunknowns battlegrounds crashed within 20 seconds in the main menu with a crash reporter coming up, no info on it though nothing in event viewer either, I am guessing it's something on the card that is overheating somewhere.
 
#7 ·
core temp doesn't really tell you vrm temp, by any chance are you able to feel the back of the card?

warm is great, hot is ok but "stinging" hot is bad. also have you checked your voltage and OC? (if you have one) may have unintentionally put it higher?

so far fallout 4 artifacts and PUBG crashes, all games flonky?

sorry, i am just taking pot shots here.

oh yeah, keep forgetting, are you sure you have the correct thickness of thermal pad?
 
#8 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by looniam View Post

core temp doesn't really tell you vrm temp, by any chance are you able to feel the back of the card?

warm is great, hot is ok but "stinging" hot is bad. also have you checked your voltage and OC? (if you have one) may have unintentionally put it higher?

so far fallout 4 artifacts and PUBG crashes, all games flonky?

sorry, i am just taking pot shots here.

oh yeah, keep forgetting, are you sure you have the correct thickness of thermal pad?
Yeah all games are crashing within 20 secs etc, I touched the backplate while I had GTA V playing it does get stingy hot like you said, Overclock is still the same - stable, the thermal pads are most likely not the same thickness.
 
#9 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by Curseair View Post

Yeah all games are crashing within 20 secs etc, I touched the backplate while I had GTA V playing it does get stingy hot like you said, Overclock is still the same - stable, the thermal pads are most likely not the same thickness.
So you're saying it doesn't go past like 48C before it crashes? It sounds like the card isn't getting enough power. I had a very similar problem, games would crash and nothing in the event log about it. I would double check your cables, try swapping them around on the rail plugs. My power supply came with a weird modular plug, a 6 pin to 6+2 pin, it turned out I was actually plugging a 6 pin into one of my 8 pins on my graphics card and had similar issues, albeit it took a lot longer for it to crash. After I gave it enough power, the temperatures went up a lot higher due to proper power draw, and no more crashing.

Also when you disassembled the card and put on the AIO did you take off the VRM/VRAM cover it comes with? If you did, perhaps you didn't put any heat sinks on the VRMs/VRAM, not the best idea. While that doesn't usually damage a card immediately, it could over time.
Edit: Check that you re-attached that plate properly as well, with thermal pads over the VRM.
 
#10 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by crash4fun View Post

So you're saying it doesn't go past like 48C before it crashes? It sounds like the card isn't getting enough power. I had a very similar problem, games would crash and nothing in the event log about it. I would double check your cables, try swapping them around on the rail plugs. My power supply came with a weird modular plug, a 6 pin to 6+2 pin, it turned out I was actually plugging a 6 pin into one of my 8 pins on my graphics card and had similar issues, albeit it took a lot longer for it to crash. After I gave it enough power, the temperatures went up a lot higher due to proper power draw, and no more crashing.

Also when you disassembled the card and put on the AIO did you take off the VRM/VRAM cover it comes with? If you did, perhaps you didn't put any heat sinks on the VRMs/VRAM, not the best idea. While that doesn't usually damage a card immediately, it could over time.
Edit: Check that you re-attached that plate properly as well, with thermal pads over the VRM.
I've saw it hit 62 max so far recorded but it's hard to see if it will get higher because games crash so fast, sometimes even in the menus (PUBG), It's the same cables I am using nothing has changed there, They worked fine before, I have a 6+2 pin cable too and a normal 6, Worked fine before I took cooler off, What VRM/VRAM cover?
 
#11 ·
I can't find a tear down picture or video for this exact model but some other ACX models have a black heat spreader that meets the VRMs and VRAM chips. Mine didn't have this but it had thermal pads on the heat sink itself. I'm just questioning whether you have proper coverage. Also going from stock to AIO back to stock, the thermal pads will start to break apart, and you can get air in there which isn't ideal.

Other things to consider are your case & ventilation. Take the sides off just for testing to make sure heat isn't building up in the case.

And I hate to bring up the worst case scenario here, but your thermal grizzly conductonaut metallic stuff was only on the GPU die lid right? That is conductive and can cause a short. It's very easy to get that stuff on the little capacitors surrounding the GPU die. Did you apply that both times? I've seen some people put electric tape around the GPU die when they apply it to avoid this. I stick with MX-4 for this reason.
 
#12 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by crash4fun View Post

I can't find a tear down picture or video for this exact model but some other ACX models have a black heat spreader that meets the VRMs and VRAM chips. Mine didn't have this but it had thermal pads on the heat sink itself. I'm just questioning whether you have proper coverage. Also going from stock to AIO back to stock, the thermal pads will start to break apart, and you can get air in there which isn't ideal.

Other things to consider are your case & ventilation. Take the sides off just for testing to make sure heat isn't building up in the case.

And I hate to bring up the worst case scenario here, but your thermal grizzly conductonaut metallic stuff was only on the GPU die lid right? That is conductive and can cause a short. It's very easy to get that stuff on the little capacitors surrounding the GPU die. Did you apply that both times? I've seen some people put electric tape around the GPU die when they apply it to avoid this. I stick with MX-4 for this reason.
Case ventilation is the same if not better as I've turned the fans up with the fan controller, I was very careful putting on the conductonaut I don't think I've put any anywhere where it should not be, Do you have a picture of the black heat spreader? Thanks for your comments so far, I've posted on various places and with EVGA but I am not getting much help.
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#13 ·
So I see now this uses something called an ICX style cooler. It is likely very similar to the one for a standard GTX 1080, you can see many pictures here:

http://www.gamersnexus.net/hwreviews/2799-evga-gtx-1080-ftw2-sc2-icx-in-depth-thermal-analysis

What I referred to as a heat spreader is called a "base plate" in that article, this picture from it specifically. Did you have to remove this base plate in order to attach the AIO? That is the part I'd pay close attention to. The backplate (which you uploaded a pic of) traditionally is not as important as this base plate/ contact with the main heat sink to the VRM.

Another thing to try is lowering the boost clock. These cards come factory overclocked, so you can try simply doing a -100MHz core clock in MSI Afterburner, even -30MV voltage (or any small step decrease). If it works fine with that, try a different PSU (if you have one) using stock settings. If it then doesn't work at stock OC frequencies, then you should probably exchange it. As long as they find no shorts from the conductonaut, they should provide a replacement.

Not sure what else to try besides that, perhaps try DDU once to get fresh installed drivers just in case. Also some games don't play nice with Shadowplay (sharing) enabled. I doubt it is either of these two things but it's worth trying.
 
#14 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by crash4fun View Post

So I see now this uses something called an ICX style cooler. It is likely very similar to the one for a standard GTX 1080, you can see many pictures here:

http://www.gamersnexus.net/hwreviews/2799-evga-gtx-1080-ftw2-sc2-icx-in-depth-thermal-analysis

What I referred to as a heat spreader is called a "base plate" in that article, this picture from it specifically. Did you have to remove this base plate in order to attach the AIO? That is the part I'd pay close attention to. The backplate (which you uploaded a pic of) traditionally is not as important as this base plate/ contact with the main heat sink to the VRM.

Another thing to try is lowering the boost clock. These cards come factory overclocked, so you can try simply doing a -100MHz core clock in MSI Afterburner, even -30MV voltage (or any small step decrease). If it works fine with that, try a different PSU (if you have one) using stock settings. If it then doesn't work at stock OC frequencies, then you should probably exchange it. As long as they find no shorts from the conductonaut, they should provide a replacement.

Not sure what else to try besides that, perhaps try DDU once to get fresh installed drivers just in case. Also some games don't play nice with Shadowplay (sharing) enabled. I doubt it is either of these two things but it's worth trying.
Yes I have took that base plate off, I've been running a small overclock before I took the cooler off and it was fine, I took the overclock off and games still crashed the same so i'm guessing it's not that, I've ordered some thermal pads in case these ones are not up to par anymore as they are on the verge of breaking up, Just need to find out the correct places to put them on the base plate area maybe.

If it was shorting would it not be shorting at idle as well? and not when it's just going under load?
 
#15 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by Curseair View Post

Yes I have took that base plate off, I've been running a small overclock before I took the cooler off and it was fine, I took the overclock off and games still crashed the same so i'm guessing it's not that, I've ordered some thermal pads in case these ones are not up to par anymore as they are on the verge of breaking up, Just need to find out the correct places to put them on the base plate area maybe.

If it was shorting would it not be shorting at idle as well? and not when it's just going under load?
Most likely yes, it would only be shorting at idle. Not trying to fixate on any specific problem.

It honestly still sounds like a power delivery issue. I'd try different cords, and check they aren't loose. It really sounds like when one of my 8-pins was actually a 6-pin... the card will run but when you put load on it, the games can crash at any moment. Pay close attention that that 8-pin.

If you have or know someone with an IR thermometer, it may help to see which sections of the card are getting the hottest (and how hot).

I also don't know anything about your base system, make sure you aren't overclocking the CPU too much. May help other people here if you post your full system specs (or make a build in your sig). Wish I had more things to try for now, give the other things I mentioned a shot though.
 
#17 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by crash4fun View Post

Most likely yes, it would only be shorting at idle. Not trying to fixate on any specific problem.

It honestly still sounds like a power delivery issue. I'd try different cords, and check they aren't loose. It really sounds like when one of my 8-pins was actually a 6-pin... the card will run but when you put load on it, the games can crash at any moment. Pay close attention that that 8-pin.

If you have or know someone with an IR thermometer, it may help to see which sections of the card are getting the hottest (and how hot).

I also don't know anything about your base system, make sure you aren't overclocking the CPU too much. May help other people here if you post your full system specs (or make a build in your sig). Wish I had more things to try for now, give the other things I mentioned a shot though.
Erm, I cleaned off the Conductonaut... Put on Kryonaut and now games are working... Top of the GPU (Backplate) Gets really hot though if you kept a finger there you would get a burn I think... Saw a max temp of 63 on GTA V.

I have ordered a IR Thermo gun should be here on the 23rd.
 
#18 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by Curseair View Post

Erm, I cleaned off the Conductonaut... Put on Kryonaut and now games are working... Top of the GPU (Backplate) Gets really hot though if you kept a finger there you would get a burn I think... Saw a max temp of 63 on GTA V.

I have ordered a IR Thermo gun should be here on the 23rd.
Glad that worked out! I guess something was being shorted then perhaps? Not going to swear off the metallic stuff myself but I guess that's why people use the electric tape eh?

With air cooling solutions the back plate will get incredibly hot. You probably need to ensure proper air flow moving past the card as there are a lot of vent holes in these back plates which need the airflow. This was the problem I had in my case until I used the AIO, as the air cooler was pulling too much air into the case and through the graphics card, without enough fans to remove it from the case. If the back plate is getting hot, it is absorbing heat which is the point of it considering it has thermal pads attached to it. You need to consider how many fans you have to pull air out of the case vs pull into the case.

IR Thermo gun is handy for many things, especially if you are a home owner as well, helps with finding drafts in winter time
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#19 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by crash4fun View Post

Glad that worked out! I guess something was being shorted then perhaps? Not going to swear off the metallic stuff myself but I guess that's why people use the electric tape eh?

With air cooling solutions the back plate will get incredibly hot. You probably need to ensure proper air flow moving past the card as there are a lot of vent holes in these back plates which need the airflow. This was the problem I had in my case until I used the AIO, as the air cooler was pulling too much air into the case and through the graphics card, without enough fans to remove it from the case. If the back plate is getting hot, it is absorbing heat which is the point of it considering it has thermal pads attached to it. You need to consider how many fans you have to pull air out of the case vs pull into the case.

IR Thermo gun is handy for many things, especially if you are a home owner as well, helps with finding drafts in winter time
biggrin.gif
Very very strange, I have just put on the conductonaut on and off 3x and the GPU crashed every time with it on games, Always worked the 3x with the Kryonaut,, My case is a corsair air 540 so there is no shortage of airflow, 3 intakes at the front 1 exhaust with 2 open slots at the top.
 
#20 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by Curseair View Post

Very very strange, I have just put on the conductonaut on and off 3x and the GPU crashed every time with it on games, Always worked the 3x with the Kryonaut,, My case is a corsair air 540 so there is no shortage of airflow, 3 intakes at the front 1 exhaust with 2 open slots at the top.
Check out this PDF from them:
http://www.thermal-grizzly.com/images/downloads/TG_Conductonaut_ShortApplicationGuide_EN.pdf

States that product should not be used with aluminum. Just noticed in your picture your heat sink is infact aluminum. That would explain it.

Also like I said, GPU fans will pull air in too, I'd take one of those front fans and have them push air out in the back or top.
 
#21 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by crash4fun View Post

Check out this PDF from them:
http://www.thermal-grizzly.com/images/downloads/TG_Conductonaut_ShortApplicationGuide_EN.pdf

States that product should not be used with aluminum. Just noticed in your picture your heat sink is infact aluminum. That would explain it.

Also like I said, GPU fans will pull air in too, I'd take one of those front fans and have them push air out in the back or top.
Just got off a live chat with EVGA they said they don't recommend liquid metal paste's and the Heat sink is a nickel plated/aluminium alloy material, I told them my story they could not really explain it either except something about the voltages ramping up when under load when I started to game. I have two EK Vardar EVO 140ER Black's just sitting around, I may use them but the fans I am using now are on a fan controller as my motherboard does not have PWM just 3 pin connectors.
 
#22 ·
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glad you got it sorted.
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