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First water cooling build ever. Need suggestion for parts. - Page 2

post #11 of 16
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobra26 View Post

Hello,

I have been using Koolance for a LONG time now and im very satisfied with the quality and looks. (knocking on wood).

My rig has pretty much all Koolance parts ie cpu block and gpu block as well as the fittings i used Bitspower fittings as well and they are indeed quality however the nut sometimes has issues when sliding over tubes in bends...an issue i do not have with the Koolance nuts since they are much thicker.

I went with their recommended coolant ie Koolance pre mix clear one and its the best pre mix coolant i have used. It will keep your blocks clean even after 3+ years in my case, i opened up my blocks expecting the worst kind of crap but....all i saw was spotless clean see link:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1606466/my-koolance-cpu-380i-after-3-years

I would go with a D5 pump res combo it should be plenty enough to cool cpu + 2 gpu's without struggle ive seen setups that include cpu + 2 gpu's + MB VRM and no issue at all. Plus i can't hear my pump even if its outside the case its really dead silent.

I would start with soft tubing instead of hard tubing much more forgiving and easier to handle but its up to you. If you do use soft tubing go with PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT make sure its the LRT version and buy retail 3 meter, some nasty shops will give you the PRO version which is very prone to plasticizer if you order like 1 or 2 meter separate this wont happen with the retail box.

Always use the recommended coolant from any water block manufacturer.
Highly recommend you to leak test your new rig with air pressure. Like this one Aquacomputer Dr. Drop for at least 4 to 6 hours.

I also went with Aquacomputer AMS radiator (tube design instead of flat tube design) no solder flux residue and mine cools like crazy good and super silent since it is geared towards low RPM fans. But its more expensive then most radiators from other brands i just choose it because of the quality and flux less design. See link for more info (last post by me):

http://www.overclock.net/t/1037941/56k-warning-new-aquacomputer-airplex-modularity-system-radiators/270

Success with the new build!
Thanks for your input. Koolance sure looks high quality and I have read a lot about people that used Koolance and have been happy about it. I'll check if I'll go with Koolance or Heatkiller for blocks. smile.gif

Soft tubing looks kinda "meh" to me. I know it is a lot of work with hard tubing but it looks so much better.

I read a forum post on OCN about how to leaktest your loop and I'll probably go with a Dr. Drop and use that guide too just to be sure.

AMS radiators looks good but I've read a review from Extreme Rigs that gave them low marks for performance/heat dissipation. So I'm a little on the fence about using AMS radiators, but I'll look into more reviews and make up my mind. smile.gif
post #12 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by M-oll View Post

Thanks for your input. Koolance sure looks high quality and I have read a lot about people that used Koolance and have been happy about it. I'll check if I'll go with Koolance or Heatkiller for blocks. smile.gif

Soft tubing looks kinda "meh" to me. I know it is a lot of work with hard tubing but it looks so much better.

I read a forum post on OCN about how to leaktest your loop and I'll probably go with a Dr. Drop and use that guide too just to be sure.

AMS radiators looks good but I've read a review from Extreme Rigs that gave them low marks for performance/heat dissipation. So I'm a little on the fence about using AMS radiators, but I'll look into more reviews and make up my mind. smile.gif

Watercool blocks are also very good i had a HK 3.0 full nickel that served me well over the years. Personally i would get either of these brands:

Koolance
Watercool
Aquacomputer
EKWB (this would be my 4th choice)

As for the review on extremerigs they where reviewing the Aquacomputer RADICAL radiator and also the AMS version. If however you opt for a Aquacomputer radiator i would def go with the AMS since that has a better cooling capacity then the RADICAL make sure if its an AMS go with the single loop rad. (the other version of AMS has double loops inside one rad)

Reviews on the radiator vary i went to foreign review sites in which they give the AMS lots of credit one of the best in the cooling aspect. If you looked at my links you will see the temps.

In any case HWL radiators are also really good or XSPC (which i used as well) radiators both of these are good quality and above all cost less then the AMS. I would not go with EKWB rads to many sketchy stories (dirty rads) behind them in comparison with other brands for rads....I had one 360 Monsta Rad from Alphacool and i wasnt impressed cooling a cpu and gpu with push pull fans Alphacool as company i would not trust see their rate of failures of their new pump design and their customer service is BAD. They should take an example of Watercool, Aquacomputer and EKWB for their outstanding customer support. Two pumps i would trust is the famous D5 pump or Aquacomputer XT pump used them both and i can tell they are reliable and strong pumps and silent yet the D5 wins in the silent compartment.

Whatever radiator you may choose make sure its properly cleaned ie "rad dance" see tutorials on the net how to. Its VITAL!

I still stand behind my point that it is better for you to start with soft tubing the headache for failing with hard tubing is not worth the stress IMO unless you already have plumping skills and know what you are doing...ive seen really nice looking soft tubing builds over the years.

If you have more questions feel free to post people will react and aid you.

In any case good luck and have fun with the build!
Edited by Cobra26 - 9/26/17 at 2:08pm
post #13 of 16
Everyone will have there own opinions on what's best, I personally did a lot of research on the net and found this site most helpful. http://www.xtremerigs.net/

2 things i will recommend tho is deff go with a D5 pump and imo Aquaero is the best fan/pump controller available.
Edited by Bartdude - 9/26/17 at 6:56am
post #14 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by M-oll View Post

I'm from Sweden

Wonderful, I have just the place for you in the EU to order from! smile.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by M-oll View Post

1) What brand or brands do you recommend for CPU/GPU blocks, radiators, reservoirs, fittings and possible pump?

Considering you are looking for a copper tubing build, look at Aquacomputer parts.

CPU waterblock: cuplex kryos NEXT with VISION 1156/1155/1151/1150, copper/copper or if you don't like the LCD screen, get the standard version.
GPU Waterblock: first off there's no point in getting a custom AIB which you'd tear off the cooling from, so get any reference-design AIB (whichever maker you prefer) and drop a kryographics Pascal for NVIDIA TITAN X and GTX 1080 Ti acrylic glass edition on top of it. Copper everywhere!
Radiators: here I prefer EK's radiators, I used both XE360 and XE480, currently in the process of getting CE560 radiators for my next build. However, again, since you mentioned copper-styled build, I'm going back to Aquacomputer and recommend the all-copper radiators, for example airplex radical 4/420, copper fins - these would provide very nice looks for your build.
I'll talk about pumps below. As for reservoirs, it's up to you to decide based on looks, however generally speaking a large reservoir would look better if your case can accommodate it. I have recently bought 2x 400mm reservoirs (EK-RES X3 400) with multiport tops, one black and one white. But then again, it's up to you what you choose, there's really no bad choice if you like it. Just don't buy very small reservoirs (below 250mm height) for higher-flow loops. I'll talk about that in the next section.
Fittings? The market is truly varied, I have no recommendations here. personally I used mostly EK fittings, which satisfied me completely. Fittings experience though is subjective and each brand will have its zealots as well as archenemies.

Quote:
Originally Posted by M-oll View Post

2) Regarding pumps, is D5 or DDC the way to go? I've read some interesting things about Iwaki, Little Giant and Danner Mag. Are these even to be considered or are they to much of a headache to incorporate in a loop? How do they perform? Are they quiet? Do I have to get a separate PSU or could I go with a 12-24v converter/step-up instead?

Large loops almost exclusively use D5 pumps. As for other, more exotic pumps, they could be fine for experienced builders, I personally haven't seen any need to use anything other than D5 or DDC pumps in a PC loop.
With that being said, my recommendation would be to choose D5 PWM pumps. Notice I said "pumps" because, even though a single D5 would keep the build running, the loop, as you describe it below, would be pretty large, and thus I can only recommend what I already have in my PC: EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 PWM Serial - (incl. 2x pump).
Quote:
Originally Posted by M-oll View Post

3) One loop or two? I'm wondering if the heat from my video card would have a big enough impact on the temp for my CPU if they are in the same loop. If I go with two 1080 ti, would I be better off temp wise with separate loops for the graphics cards and CPU or could I run everything in the same loop?

Dual-loop is only justified by show-off builds nowadays; from a performance point of view it's always better to use a single loop.
- No matter which components are generating heat, they will always have ALL radiators available to cool them down;
- GPUs affecting CPU temperature is nothing to be worried about. I mean, yes, if you use GPUs at 100% and the CPU is idling, the CPU temperature will rise together with liquid temperature as it goes up, but that doesn't negatively affect your CPU at all. Furthermore, the liquid temperature variation throughout the loop should always be below 2 degrees Celsius. Imagine liquid entering your first GPU (at 100% load) at 30 degrees Celsius, when exiting the second GPU (at 100% load) it shouldn't be at more than 32 degrees Celsius. That in a properly constructed loop, of course. If your flow is very slow, that variation would be larger, of course. Same for the reverse situation, CPU load doesn't affect GPU temperatures to any worrisome extent.
Quote:
Originally Posted by M-oll View Post

4) I've toyed with the idea of utilizing all of the radiator space in the SMA8. That would mean, if I've understood it correctly, that I'd put a 560 and a 280 in the bottom, a 280 or 360 in the front, a 360 in the top and a 120 in the rear. I know it's a bit of an overkill but I do not mind the price. But is the diminishing return on having such an abundance of radiator capacity going to effect the temperature of my system? Can a single D5 or DDC handle two graphics cards, a CPU and all those radiators? Is it better to split my loop in two and divide the radiators between the graphics cards and the GPU?
The answer to all three question would be "no".
- Many radiators add restriction to the loop, meaning lower liquid flow, lower pressure and might negatively impact cooling performance. The most I'd recommend would be a 560 at the bottom (EK CE560 is a personal favorite), a 360 at the front and a 360 at the top. It would be more than enough to keep everything at very comfortable temperature levels. Also, a single loop, as mentioned before.
Quote:
Originally Posted by M-oll View Post

5) Fans! I've almost always used Noctua in my previous builds. I'm leanings towards using Noctua NF-A12/14 Industrial PPC 2000 RPM PWM as fans. Thoughts on that?
Much as for fittings, there's a million and one options out there and possibly twice as many opinions.
Personally I use Noctua NF-F12 PWM which is an excellent Static Pressure fan. I currently have 6 of them in my Box of Horrors and 8 more in a friend's build. For 140mm fans, I have used noctua NF-A14 PWM in the past and will use them too in my next build.
With that being said, fan choice needs to be tailored to radiator choice, namely their thickness and FPI count. in my case I am using radiators which have low-to-medium FPI count and don't need very high static pressure to work well. If you pick radiators with higher FPI, you will need more static pressure for them to work effectively. But you won't need high FPI radiators for the build that you mentioned.
Quote:
Originally Posted by M-oll View Post

6) Monitoring and controlling. If possible, I would like to utilize an Aquaero 6 XT for monitoring and controlling my loop/pump/fans. My first concern is if it would be able to fit in my case if I decide to go all out with the radiators. My second concern is what accessories to buy. Browsing AquaComputer's webshop I see that I could buy a flow sensor, a temp sensor, a pressure sensor, a couple of Splitty9s for the radiator fans and possible a Farbwerk for the RGB/LED-strip. What are your recommendations when it comes to accessories for the Aquaero 6 XT?

Aquaero 6 is a very good choice, and OCN has a whole topic dedicated to it. but to answer your questions specifically:
1. Yes it would fit in your case. You can tuck it anywhere you see some space.
2. The minimum I would recommend in terms of sensors is 2x G1/4 temperature sensors and 1x High Speed Flow Sensor (just make sure you also buy a cable!). The reason for that is that you can easily calculate the power dissipation for your system using Aquasuite. You place one temp sensor before the first radiator and one temp sensor after the last radiator. The delta between them, combined with liquid flow, results in a power dissipation value that Aquasuite calculates automatically (you just drag the sensors in the software). Aquaero comes with 4x flat temperature sensors in the box - you can place them anywhere.
Quote:
Originally Posted by M-oll View Post

7) Anyone know where I can buy 16mm or 5/8" copper pipe and not being forced into personal bankruptcy? I have found a couple of places but they either sell in lengths of 10-20 meters or they sell 2 meters for a very high price. I'm looking for "raw" copper, not chromed. If it's on coils or straight pipe doesn't really matter.

Thanks in advance!

Here in Romania I pay about 4-5 EUR per 1m of 16mm raw copper tubing. It comes in coils and they cut however many meters you're asking for from the large coil they have in the store.
Box of Horrors
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i7 6800K Asus X99-A II EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 FTW Kingston HyperX 2x 16GB DDR4 3000MHz 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Western Digital Green 2 TB 5400 RPM SSD Samsung 850 EVO 1TB SSD ADATA 512 GB Patriot Hellfire 240 GB M.2 SSD nVME 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Custom Loop, EKWB, CPU+GPU, soft tubing Windows 10 Professional X64 Dell 2407WFP Logitech G510 
PowerCaseMouse
Super Flower Leadex Gold 750W Thermaltake Core X5 Logitech G700S 
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Box of Horrors
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i7 6800K Asus X99-A II EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 FTW Kingston HyperX 2x 16GB DDR4 3000MHz 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Western Digital Green 2 TB 5400 RPM SSD Samsung 850 EVO 1TB SSD ADATA 512 GB Patriot Hellfire 240 GB M.2 SSD nVME 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Custom Loop, EKWB, CPU+GPU, soft tubing Windows 10 Professional X64 Dell 2407WFP Logitech G510 
PowerCaseMouse
Super Flower Leadex Gold 750W Thermaltake Core X5 Logitech G700S 
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post #15 of 16
Thread Starter 
First, thank you for your very informative and helpful post. I'm sorry I haven't replied to it before now but I have been busy with work and other projects. smile.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by war4peace View Post

Wonderful, I have just the place for you in the EU to order from! smile.gif
Nice, what place is that?
Quote:
Originally Posted by war4peace View Post

Considering you are looking for a copper tubing build, look at Aquacomputer parts.

CPU waterblock: cuplex kryos NEXT with VISION 1156/1155/1151/1150, copper/copper or if you don't like the LCD screen, get the standard version.
GPU Waterblock: first off there's no point in getting a custom AIB which you'd tear off the cooling from, so get any reference-design AIB (whichever maker you prefer) and drop a kryographics Pascal for NVIDIA TITAN X and GTX 1080 Ti acrylic glass edition on top of it. Copper everywhere!
Radiators: here I prefer EK's radiators, I used both XE360 and XE480, currently in the process of getting CE560 radiators for my next build. However, again, since you mentioned copper-styled build, I'm going back to Aquacomputer and recommend the all-copper radiators, for example airplex radical 4/420, copper fins - these would provide very nice looks for your build.
I'll talk about pumps below. As for reservoirs, it's up to you to decide based on looks, however generally speaking a large reservoir would look better if your case can accommodate it. I have recently bought 2x 400mm reservoirs (EK-RES X3 400) with multiport tops, one black and one white. But then again, it's up to you what you choose, there's really no bad choice if you like it. Just don't buy very small reservoirs (below 250mm height) for higher-flow loops. I'll talk about that in the next section.
Fittings? The market is truly varied, I have no recommendations here. personally I used mostly EK fittings, which satisfied me completely. Fittings experience though is subjective and each brand will have its zealots as well as archenemies.
I'm deciding between either the AquaComputer Krys and Kryographics or the Heatkiller IV cpu and gpu block. I find both of them equally satisfying when it comes to the aesthetics and they seem to perform almost similar to each other. I do like the bare copper look that Kryographics has, but I do recall that it didn't cover the whole card. Is that right?
I've looked into either EK, Hardware Labs or AquaComputer rads. EK seems to perform well, HWL seems like a beast when it comes to performance but I have a hard time deciding what type of radiator to use and I know AquaComputer makes great products but I have seen some reviews/tests that says that the Airplex isn't performing well. So I'm kinda scared to buy an Airplex even though it would look nice in my build.
I might go with Primochill fittings.
Regarding reservoir I'm thinking minimum 250mm cylinder. Don't know if you can make a single loop with two reservoirs to fill up the space between the motherboard and the front. I'll test it out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by war4peace View Post

Large loops almost exclusively use D5 pumps. As for other, more exotic pumps, they could be fine for experienced builders, I personally haven't seen any need to use anything other than D5 or DDC pumps in a PC loop.
With that being said, my recommendation would be to choose D5 PWM pumps. Notice I said "pumps" because, even though a single D5 would keep the build running, the loop, as you describe it below, would be pretty large, and thus I can only recommend what I already have in my PC: EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 PWM Serial - (incl. 2x pump).
2x D5 it is! I know my loop is a bit overkill and I could probably scale it down and go with one D5 but I just want to dive right into this. smile.gif Regarding my questions for more exotic pumps, it stems from the size of my loop. I wanted to make sure that I had enough "power" for it but if I can get away with 2x D5 I'm gonna do that. Since I'll be using an Aquaero 6 I might as well buy the AquaComputer D5.
Quote:
Originally Posted by war4peace View Post

Dual-loop is only justified by show-off builds nowadays; from a performance point of view it's always better to use a single loop.
- No matter which components are generating heat, they will always have ALL radiators available to cool them down;
- GPUs affecting CPU temperature is nothing to be worried about. I mean, yes, if you use GPUs at 100% and the CPU is idling, the CPU temperature will rise together with liquid temperature as it goes up, but that doesn't negatively affect your CPU at all. Furthermore, the liquid temperature variation throughout the loop should always be below 2 degrees Celsius. Imagine liquid entering your first GPU (at 100% load) at 30 degrees Celsius, when exiting the second GPU (at 100% load) it shouldn't be at more than 32 degrees Celsius. That in a properly constructed loop, of course. If your flow is very slow, that variation would be larger, of course. Same for the reverse situation, CPU load doesn't affect GPU temperatures to any worrisome extent.
Thank you. I do like the look of dual loops but if it's more effective to use one loop I might as well do that. It all comes down to performance vs. looks and I want to have a good mix of both.
Quote:
Originally Posted by war4peace View Post

The answer to all three question would be "no".
- Many radiators add restriction to the loop, meaning lower liquid flow, lower pressure and might negatively impact cooling performance. The most I'd recommend would be a 560 at the bottom (EK CE560 is a personal favorite), a 360 at the front and a 360 at the top. It would be more than enough to keep everything at very comfortable temperature levels. Also, a single loop, as mentioned before.
That seems like a more managable set up and the one I'm leaning towards now. I still have some time to decide what to do since my case has been shipped. But I need to make a decision soon so I have all the equipment here when the case arrives. I do not want my radiators to have a negative impact on my cooling performance so I'll probably need to scale it down somewhat. If I decide on SLI 1080TI I'm thinking of going with a dual loop and using either the 560 or the two 360s for the GPUs and the other for the CPU.
Quote:
Originally Posted by war4peace View Post

Much as for fittings, there's a million and one options out there and possibly twice as many opinions.
Personally I use Noctua NF-F12 PWM which is an excellent Static Pressure fan. I currently have 6 of them in my Box of Horrors and 8 more in a friend's build. For 140mm fans, I have used noctua NF-A14 PWM in the past and will use them too in my next build.
With that being said, fan choice needs to be tailored to radiator choice, namely their thickness and FPI count. in my case I am using radiators which have low-to-medium FPI count and don't need very high static pressure to work well. If you pick radiators with higher FPI, you will need more static pressure for them to work effectively. But you won't need high FPI radiators for the build that you mentioned.
So basically the higher the FPI the more static pressure I need and since I do not need high FPI radiators for my build I can go with a fan more suited for airflow than static pressure as long as I choose a radiator with low FPI? I like Noctua and it has been the only fans I've used in my builds except Scythe SlipStreams.

Quote:
Originally Posted by war4peace View Post

Aquaero 6 is a very good choice, and OCN has a whole topic dedicated to it. but to answer your questions specifically:
1. Yes it would fit in your case. You can tuck it anywhere you see some space.
2. The minimum I would recommend in terms of sensors is 2x G1/4 temperature sensors and 1x High Speed Flow Sensor (just make sure you also buy a cable!). The reason for that is that you can easily calculate the power dissipation for your system using Aquasuite. You place one temp sensor before the first radiator and one temp sensor after the last radiator. The delta between them, combined with liquid flow, results in a power dissipation value that Aquasuite calculates automatically (you just drag the sensors in the software). Aquaero comes with 4x flat temperature sensors in the box - you can place them anywhere.
1. Great! I've actually choosen a smaller flexbay radiator mount just so I could be sure to mount the Aquaero 6 in the front.
2. Smart setup! I'll go with minimum that regarding sensors. The included sensors could be used to monitor the temperatur inside the case etc. smile.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by war4peace View Post

Here in Romania I pay about 4-5 EUR per 1m of 16mm raw copper tubing. It comes in coils and they cut however many meters you're asking for from the large coil they have in the store.
Lucky you! I haven't found a single shop in Sweden that has 16mm copper tubing. They have 5/8" but it comes in 10 meter coils and they won't cut it any smaller. It would cost me about €150 for that coil...
post #16 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by M-oll View Post

Nice, what place is that?

None in particular, just saying you can order from within the EU and it's tax free smile.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by M-oll View Post

I'm deciding between either the AquaComputer Krys and Kryographics or the Heatkiller IV cpu and gpu block. I find both of them equally satisfying when it comes to the aesthetics and they seem to perform almost similar to each other. I do like the bare copper look that Kryographics has, but I do recall that it didn't cover the whole card. Is that right?

You are right, it does not. Still it looks pretty awesome and it does cover the parts that need cooling.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by M-oll View Post

I've looked into either EK, Hardware Labs or AquaComputer rads. EK seems to perform well, HWL seems like a beast when it comes to performance but I have a hard time deciding what type of radiator to use and I know AquaComputer makes great products but I have seen some reviews/tests that says that the Airplex isn't performing well. So I'm kinda scared to buy an Airplex even though it would look nice in my build.

Given the amount and size of radiators you are planning on adding, the only unknown is the FPI count of the radiator - luckily that's solved through 3rd party reviews. Your loop is overkill anyway, so you shouldn't be worried. But strictly from a performance perspective, I've seen the EK XE radiators being consistently in top 3 in reviews (XE 360, XE 480).
Quote:
Originally Posted by M-oll View Post

Regarding reservoir I'm thinking minimum 250mm cylinder. Don't know if you can make a single loop with two reservoirs to fill up the space between the motherboard and the front. I'll test it out.
Of course you can, there are two ways of achieving this.
1. Link the reservoirs in series, liquid enters res #1, flows to res #2, then to pump combo. Simpler to build but you might end up with uneven liquid height in the reservoirs.
2. Liquid splits through a T-Splitter (example) and enters both reservoirs in parallel, then exits both of them through their own outlets and gathers back through another T-Splitter into the pump combo. More complex to put together but ensures equal liquid level in the reservoirs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by M-oll View Post

2x D5 it is! I know my loop is a bit overkill and I could probably scale it down and go with one D5 but I just want to dive right into this. smile.gif Regarding my questions for more exotic pumps, it stems from the size of my loop. I wanted to make sure that I had enough "power" for it but if I can get away with 2x D5 I'm gonna do that. Since I'll be using an Aquaero 6 I might as well buy the AquaComputer D5.
Here's where I don't recommend the Aquacomputer D5 pumps... The issue I am having with them (again, it's subjective) is that the AquaComputer D5 pumps are VARIO rather than PWM. This means that they are originally knob-based pumps with 4 (or 5? I don't remember) fixed speeds, with the knob replaced by an electronic circuit. So in my opinion they have some disadvantages:
1. You don't have full control over their speed; this might not seem like much of an issue, but sometimes dual pump combos enter resonance and vibrate at certain rotational speeds more than others. With PWM pumps, you can fine-tune their speed in such a way that you achieve maximum performance with minimum noise. If they do vibrate at 80% and 100% but don't vibrate at 87%, you can fine-tune that with PWM. You can't do the same with AQ D5 pumps.
2. You can only control them through Aquasuite. If you have an Aquaero, it's no problem, but if for some reason you want to control them from outside Aquaero, I am not sure whether it's possible. Take what i say with a grain of salt though because I never personally used AQ D5 pumps.
3. I have no idea how would they behave or be controlled when in a dual-top volute combo. PWM pumps are easy to control, just use a PWM splitter and plug it into the Aquaero, then both pumps will run at the same speed (with under 1% variation which is expected).
Quote:
Originally Posted by M-oll View Post

So basically the higher the FPI the more static pressure I need and since I do not need high FPI radiators for my build I can go with a fan more suited for airflow than static pressure as long as I choose a radiator with low FPI? I like Noctua and it has been the only fans I've used in my builds except Scythe SlipStreams.

Correct. I have 2x XE360 in my current build and while idle I keep the fans at 450-500 RPM. See my system's live data here.
Box of Horrors
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i7 6800K Asus X99-A II EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 FTW Kingston HyperX 2x 16GB DDR4 3000MHz 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Western Digital Green 2 TB 5400 RPM SSD Samsung 850 EVO 1TB SSD ADATA 512 GB Patriot Hellfire 240 GB M.2 SSD nVME 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Custom Loop, EKWB, CPU+GPU, soft tubing Windows 10 Professional X64 Dell 2407WFP Logitech G510 
PowerCaseMouse
Super Flower Leadex Gold 750W Thermaltake Core X5 Logitech G700S 
  hide details  
Reply
Box of Horrors
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i7 6800K Asus X99-A II EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 FTW Kingston HyperX 2x 16GB DDR4 3000MHz 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Western Digital Green 2 TB 5400 RPM SSD Samsung 850 EVO 1TB SSD ADATA 512 GB Patriot Hellfire 240 GB M.2 SSD nVME 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Custom Loop, EKWB, CPU+GPU, soft tubing Windows 10 Professional X64 Dell 2407WFP Logitech G510 
PowerCaseMouse
Super Flower Leadex Gold 750W Thermaltake Core X5 Logitech G700S 
  hide details  
Reply
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