With the glass sides, with the lights on, then on my desk.
I'm pretty happy with the temperatures. 2K Skyrim on max settings didn't even warm it up. Once I learn a little more about the Aquaero I'll push it a little more.
I have been thinking hard between the x5 and x9 with the tempered glass side upgrade.I do want to water cool my next one so space is a big deal to me.I have seen a lot of x9 water cooled but not many x5s so far.
Now that I'm done with the build I think the x5 is a great case. Very versatile. If you can live with 360 or smaller radiators. The tempered glass sides are attractive but I'm not overwhelmed with how they fit. Still they make the case look really nice.
It's more compact than the X9 for sure but it still looks huge. I may need to rearrange my desk.
Out of the box you can fit 4X360 rads in the X5 but it won't take a 480. The X9 will at least take 3X480 rads but I thought that would be overkill for my build.
I started paint work this weekend, I'll post some pictures as soon as I get some things back together.
I feel ya its why i like the case its big enough for my needs.And my next build i could get away with one 360 but if i wanna overclock anything which knowing me i will i need a 2nd rad.
Subbed! That case looks like one that TT got right. Outside of Case Labs, it's tough to find a case that will fit four 360s. Rad overkill is good (got 4 360s and a 240 in my M8). Can't wait to see what you do with this one!
The paint dried and some parts rolled in from performance-pcs. Got some time to do assembly work this weekend.
Here is my ASUS X99 Deluxe with a new coat of paint and a new EK monoblock. Invested in some kryonaut and I hope to see some better temps on overclocks.
I love removable motherboard trays. Can I get a hallelujah!
Here is the motherboard in it's new home. Now comes the measuring and noodling.
So I finally decided that leak testing with air was a necessity in the build because of the potential damage a leak could cause. I spent a few $$ at McMaster at put the parts together this weekend. Leak tested all my old rads for fun. The apothic red in the background is optional.
Huh they are but they just can't take lots of pressure if they are the combo res pump components I wouldn't trust the acrylic tube of the res that has threads cut into it to not crack in some way I wouldn't put more than a half bar or 5-7 psi I doubt most pump combo reses can even output anywhere near that pressure sustained without burning itself out, the only pumps I can see outputting that level of pressure are iwaki pumps or AC powered pond fountain pumps, stuff made to push water up 10+ feet through 10+ feet of tubing and still shoot out the top a few more feet for that pretty fountain effect people love.
There is a reason that Dr drop uses a really small hand pump with a super short stroke, you can't really build a lot of pressure with those with such a small diameter of the cylinder and a short stroke on the piston.
Just don't go nuts and you'd be fine even when testing a pump and res
Here is one of the rads drying. The epoxy based finish is very soft for days so you paint, then wait. I have tried using a clear to speed up the process in the past but it just dulls the finish and makes it look grey.
Pardon the mess, but I thought I would share some progress pics. The rads are painted and mounted. I decided on 2xUT360s/Push and 1xMonsta240/Push+Pull.
Checking tolerances on the fans and running them to make sure they are good.
Here are the 2 UT360s with enermax twister pressure fans.
Here is the Monsta240 with 4xAP-15s
Added a NukaCola sticker before this one got a coat of clear.
I'll post more updates when I have something cool to share.
Feh, got it all together and it failed a pressure test big time. One of the screws I used was slightly longer than the others to poor effect. Starting again.
Feh, got it all together and it failed a pressure test big time. One of the screws I used was slightly longer than the others to poor effect. Starting again.
Is that an MPS flow meter? If so you may have trouble with it, manual recommends 5cm of straight tube either side. I know the one I have didn't work very well until I changed to PETG.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Ask a question
Ask a question
Overclock.net
27.8M posts
541.2K members
Since 2004
A forum community dedicated to overclocking enthusiasts and testing the limits of computing. Come join the discussion about computing, builds, collections, displays, models, styles, scales, specifications, reviews, accessories, classifieds, and more!