Well i wouldn't say hours more like 2 hours really
It's actually a bit easier (at least for me) with the IHS off
Quote:
Originally Posted by
steelbom
Well I didn't initially plan on it since this was my first build and wasn't sure how temperatures would be. I can see that those two you recommended are one part whereas the Noctua has room for a fan in-between.
I see I see. Yeah I would get good liquid metal paste... is it also good just for between the IHS and the cooler itself? Instead of regular paste...?
What do you mean by lap?
My IHS was like any others
Then I started to sand away the top layer
Putting sand paper on a glas surface, for me our glas dining table, and sanding away at the IHS
You can see the copper shine through in spots, means it was not even, was actually concave at the middle (worst kind really)
And once I had a plane surface from the IHS I started to go with finer and finer sandpaper
Up until P2500
Temps dropped another 5 degrees for me afterwards
From my shot up there to
On TIM
under IHS any liquid metal paste that is cheapest/easiest to get for you
There are 4 on the market
Coollabority Ultra and pro
Conductonaut
Phobya LM
Any of those will do fine, small edge to conductonaut
on IHS any high end normal TIM
Like Aironaut, Hydronaut,Noctua NH-1
It's just easier to handle and difference is really minor
And the more perfect the IHS and cooler mating then even less
Once you actually try to use the liquid metal ones you'll understand
And cleaning them up is not as easy as wiping them away
Btw
It is recommended to paint some of the LM on the underside of the IHS as well to ensure good contact
When you put a small drop on the underside and try to paint it on you wpuod see that it needs to be convinced a little to actually stick to the surface
And do paint over the golden contacts under the IHS with clear nail polish