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post #21 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by steelbom View Post


I see I see. Yeah I would get good liquid metal paste... is it also good just for between the IHS and the cooler itself? Instead of regular paste...?

What do you mean by lap?

You CAN use a liquid metal paste between the IHS and cooler, but there can be problems with that as well. The biggest problem is that liquid metal paste doesn't react well with aluminum, so you need to make sure that NONE of it comes in contact with any aluminum at all. Considering that most air coolers are aluminum with a copper plate on the bottom this can become problematic.

Personally, I would just get a very high quality non-metallic paste to use between the IHS and cooler, but that's just me. If you're certain you can get it right then nothing is better than liquid metal for transferring heat. And you'll certainly have enough left over after a delid. Choice is yours, but if you do it make sure you're not getting any liquid metal on anything other than the IHS and copper on the heatsink.


Lapping is basically sanding the IHS and cooler to remove any imperfections in the surface. Milling grooves on the heatsink and slight curvature on the IHS are normal. Lapping is the process of sanding both down until you get as close to a perfect surface as you can get. Totally flat with no scratches or marks on either surface. Done right it can drop temps by another 5-10C, but it's VERY time consuming to do right. You've got to have the patience to sand away on metal surfaces for hours, and be careful enough to be very precise when you do it.

If you're interested then read this. It's a basic guide but will give you a good idea of what is involved. To do it right you'll need to lap both the IHS and the surface of the cooler that contacts the IHS.

http://www.overclockersclub.com/guides/lapping/
post #22 of 28
Well i wouldn't say hours more like 2 hours really

It's actually a bit easier (at least for me) with the IHS off
Quote:
Originally Posted by steelbom View Post

Well I didn't initially plan on it since this was my first build and wasn't sure how temperatures would be. I can see that those two you recommended are one part whereas the Noctua has room for a fan in-between.
I see I see. Yeah I would get good liquid metal paste... is it also good just for between the IHS and the cooler itself? Instead of regular paste...?

What do you mean by lap?

My IHS was like any others
Then I started to sand away the top layer

Putting sand paper on a glas surface, for me our glas dining table, and sanding away at the IHS

You can see the copper shine through in spots, means it was not even, was actually concave at the middle (worst kind really)

And once I had a plane surface from the IHS I started to go with finer and finer sandpaper
Up until P2500

Temps dropped another 5 degrees for me afterwards

From my shot up there to


On TIM

under IHS any liquid metal paste that is cheapest/easiest to get for you

There are 4 on the market

Coollabority Ultra and pro

Conductonaut

Phobya LM

Any of those will do fine, small edge to conductonaut

on IHS any high end normal TIM
Like Aironaut, Hydronaut,Noctua NH-1

It's just easier to handle and difference is really minor
And the more perfect the IHS and cooler mating then even less

Once you actually try to use the liquid metal ones you'll understand
And cleaning them up is not as easy as wiping them away


Btw
It is recommended to paint some of the LM on the underside of the IHS as well to ensure good contact
When you put a small drop on the underside and try to paint it on you wpuod see that it needs to be convinced a little to actually stick to the surface

And do paint over the golden contacts under the IHS with clear nail polish
Edited by peter2k - 10/21/17 at 3:48am
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post #23 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by steelbom View Post

I see I see. I think if I'm not mounting directly then there isn't much point... and I don't think I can be that precise when it comes to not apply pressure to the CPU with the cooler.

There is a point, intel puts REALLY REALLY bad thermal paste between the die and IHS. Replacing it with liquid metal and putting it back on gives many a 20C temp drop under load.
post #24 of 28
In this case I think the limiting factor is the CPU cooler. I'm actually impressed the temps are that low with no fans and an overclock smile.gif
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post #25 of 28
First, make your cooler great again, second, if the chip is a poor overclocker, don't bother...the higher the vcore, the more cooling you need.
post #26 of 28
The NH-D15 is still great. It's a below average performer without fans. That is the problem, not the cooler. Adding fans to the towers should drop temperatures considerably.
post #27 of 28
My i5-6600k was delidded by Silicon lottery. It was worth every penny. For a time, I passively cooled it with a D15 similarly to what you are doing. With fans, my load temperature dropped 20C. Would I delid my 6600k today? Probably not to be honest - I would buy a newer platform.
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post #28 of 28
I would delid I am not an extreme overclocker either, but i love lower temps and overclocking too. My chip too isn't good I need 1.36 for 4.6ghz and 1.42 for 4.7ghz. Depending on what voltage you feel comfortable with some will run 1.45v 24/7, while others like me don't like to be 1.4v or above. My temps dropped 12c from a delid using liquid pro on my 6600k, my 3770k dropped like 25c underload. Bottom line is now no matter the vcore my chip will stay under 80c no matter what. So if you plan on keeping the chip and running an overclock i would delid it. But keep in mind you can kill your cpu and voids your warranty. BTW mine is cooler by a nh-d14 with a single 120mm cougar fan, but with a delid i bet your temps will be fine at your current overclock and no fans. Check out my video on youtube on my 6600k delid

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RLFjrB4nFVg
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