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Custom Water Cooling Loop Recommendations

6K views 15 replies 8 participants last post by  andrewmp6 
#1 ·
Hi Everyone, first time on Overclock.net. It is a pleasure to join this community and I hope to learn a lot from all and in time, become a valuable member.

Now with regards to my post; I plan to build a new water cooled PC in November and was wondering if the experts can give me some recommendations and/or things to watch out for. Let me start off by saying I have never build a water cooled PC before, all previous builds from 1997 onward were on air.

For the new computer, the components that the cooling loop will consider are the following:

CPU: Intel i7 8700K
GPU: MSI GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Seahawk EK X
Motherboard: ASUS Maximus X Formula

I have read up on water cooling here and there and read all of the guides that was on the EKWB website so I have a basic understanding of what is need in the loop, what not to do (such as mixing water blocks, fittings of different types of metals). I am mostly worried about the tubing aspect of the build.

I've Googled and looked at a number of builds from https://pcpartpicker.com/ and this is what I have in mind.

Do you guys think there are some glaring mistakes on what I have done? Are there more efficient ways to do the same thing or any tweaking that you would suggest? (For example if there are better performing components: Radiators, fans, water blocks, etc.)

One of the challenges that I will face is that I am planning on buying the cooling loop components from the web, so I need to have an close estimate of the number of fittings that I need (90 degree, 45 degree, etc.).

I realize soft tubing is best for first time builders, but it seems it is not possible to get a lot of the clean "straight line", "90 degree bends" with them. My plan is: If it turns out that hard tubing is too over my head due to whatever reason, I will pay the local water cooling PC store to do it for me (around ~US$165 for the labor)

Sketch:


EKWB Custom Loop Configurator Recommendations (Choosing "Overclock" as goal, the configurator added one radiator, XE360, not shown on the list):


Case Specs:


With regard to the case: From my reading, for traditional tower type cases, review sites seem to recommend the Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX, or the Corsair Crystal 570X RGB over what I have picked, the Thermaltake View 71 due to better build quality, etc. but unfortunately, Phanteks is not sold in my country and the Corsair case is significantly more expensive so I may need to settle on the View 71

Thank you all in advance for your help.
 
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#2 ·
I personally would throw in a drain valve at the bottom. And I would want an antic-cyclonic in the res because your in/out are right next to each other, or possibly save yourself a couple bends and deposit into the res at the top instead of the bottom. Also consider flipping your fans around and making all of the rads intake to save a few Cs and create positive pressure to minimize dust.

Good luck! It looks like it is going to be a clean build.
thumb.gif
 
#3 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by inedenimadam View Post

I personally would throw in a drain valve at the bottom. And I would want an antic-cyclonic in the res because your in/out are right next to each other, or possibly save yourself a couple bends and deposit into the res at the top instead of the bottom. Also consider flipping your fans around and making all of the rads intake to save a few Cs and create positive pressure to minimize dust.

Good luck! It looks like it is going to be a clean build.
thumb.gif
Thanks a lot for your quick response! One question, I have read that flipping the fans around for the two rads to blow the hot air into the case actually will increase the temperature by a few degrees due to all the hot air being kept inside instead of expelling it into the room. Also, hot air tends to want to rise, hence the top fans ideally should always be in the outward direction, is my understanding of this incorrect?

To increase the flow of colder air into the case, I could add an intake fan at the bottom of the case to help push. I think there is a filter on the bottom side as well which should help keep some of the dust outside.
 
#4 ·
Saying the hot air rises and will affect the airflow of a case with more than 2 fans is like saying you have to hold onto the surface of the earth to avoid being flung into space as it rotates. An extreme example, but the point is natural convection is negligible to case airflow.

I might be having a moment, but it appears you 360 radiator is missing from your list. Also, might I suggest a water temp sensor? Not necessary, but it can be helpful if you have questions once you install if you have problems.

Finally,if you haven't bought a PSU yet 1000W is overkill for that CPU with a single graphics card. Check out the PSU forum. You'll actually hurt your efficiency.
 
#5 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by inedenimadam View Post

I personally would throw in a drain valve at the bottom. And I would want an antic-cyclonic in the res because your in/out are right next to each other, or possibly save yourself a couple bends and deposit into the res at the top instead of the bottom. Also consider flipping your fans around and making all of the rads intake to save a few Cs and create positive pressure to minimize dust.

Good luck! It looks like it is going to be a clean build.
thumb.gif
I recommend you don't set up all of your rads as intakes. Unless the top of your case has a filter (most do not), you'll clog your radiator. More importantly, you'll be rejecting 90 percent of the heat inside your case and straight onto your motherboard VRMs. With a full cover block on the GPU, internal case temps aren't going to be much above ambient for the surrounding room, so there is no need to resort to these drastic measures.

Sent from my ZTE Axon 7 Resurrection Remix.
 
#6 ·
Hey ChickenSoup4U,

Below are some thoughts (and probably too much unsolicited advice), as said above I think its a great build and well thought-out already.
  • Definitely recommend soft tubing for first time. I just did my first water cooled build in August and was thankful for the forgiveness of soft tubing. I can't think of anything I got right on the first try.
  • Good call above on the drain valve, you might need it immediately or a 1 year or so from now when you change coolant, but you will need it at some point. This will necessitate a three way valve (ball valve) and a drain port. Below are Amazon links, I did the same thing. Most importantly, you'll want to put this at the lowest point in your loop (right before it goes into the vertical 360 rad or right as it comes out of it.)
  • Remember to bleed your loop for air bubbles, will be tough in your case since your reservoir sits in the middle (height-wise) of your liquid. Highest point in loop is ideal for letting bubbles rise to top.
  • I got the same PWM pump, you may want to consider a non-pwm pump as the ramp-does take some tinkering in the BIOS/Speedfan so you don't hear it. Non-PWM offers more of a set-it-and forget it option. That said, I like to run mine on a curve where if nothing is going on, pumps at like 900rpms, and ramps up as temps go up - higher flow rate / head pressure lowered my temps significantly (yours too with two radiators).
  • I don't expect you'd have cyclonic issues with that pump/res combo, I have not and I've laid it on its side as well as vertically.
  • I agree with SavantStrike, I'd recommend not doing all intakes. I'd do intake on bottom with 140s and exhaust through both rads. Sometimes a little negative pressure helps with temps, but positive is best for dust control, and since your intakes are on the floor that will be an issue for you (don't sit this PC on high carpet bc of that). Depending on rad fin density, a few 140s on the bottom may be equivalent to the 6 140mm fan exhausts through radiators.
  • Lastly, a paperclip really does work fine for the bridging (but if the $3 gives you peace of mind, no harm there).
  • Not that you asked, but something I wish I would have done differently with the 7700k (and I know 8700k has heat issues as well) is delid it. Ideally buy a pre-binned 5Ghz+ one from Silicon lottery and have them delid it for you. I have an overkill cooling setup but can't push the CPU that hard since the temps jump up so fast on me. Once you set up your liquid cooling its pretty hard to take it apart and change this.
This will require a lot of fittings and 90 degree turns (which will add up fast), its hard to get it exactly so just take your best guess and return the extras to Amazon. I wouldn't order anything you don't need to get from EKWB because return shipping to Slovenia is probably a lot. I would guess you're looking at 13 90-degree fittings (for nice clean lines/turns as you have laid out) and about 20 barb/compression fittings. The reason the number of fittings are so high is because you need a barb/compression fitting for every place you're screwing into a rad/block as well as the other side of any 90 degree fitting. You'll need to match tubing size with fitting size.

If you decide to go soft tubing, I used the below combinations and know they fit together:
Tubing: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A9ZDK44/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1\
EK Fittings: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KKRUWDW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
90 Degree Rotary Fittings: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KMS52A2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
EK 45 Degree Rotary Fittings: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KMRM6HA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ball Valve (drain port): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015YRLN4A/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
3 way fitting (for drain port) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0C344V/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
#7 ·
well I see people all the time using that EK parts picker, and really thinking that this is it, I can get it all right here in one spot.
I would not suggest using any EK rotary fittings, bitspower or barrow only.
EK radiators are fine, but hardware labs radiators are better.
EK water blocks, well that's on you, there is plenty of info available, the only way I would buy a EK water block, is if EK was the only one that made a GPU water block for my video card.
bits power makes some nice reservoirs.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1615072/cpu-and-radiator-upgrade-on-water-cooled-rig
http://www.overclock.net/t/1573189/serial-vs-parallel-9-6lpm
http://www.overclock.net/t/1584867/tec-chill-box-chamber-build-log

I place a parts list at the front of each of my build logs, what I would like to point out is that none of my builds have EK parts in them.
EK is a mid grade company at best, they make useable water cooling parts, but there build quality leaves much to be desired.
redface.gif
 
#8 ·
I will throw in one tip for cutting the tubing go to your local hardware type store and get a tubing cutter that will cut that size tubing.Its worth spending the little bit on one vs trying to use a razor blade or a pair scissors.The tubing cutter will give you a lot straighter cut and easier to use which both will save you time and prevent any leaks from a not straight cut leaking.And what country are you in ?
 
#9 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by Some Random Guy View Post

Saying the hot air rises and will affect the airflow of a case with more than 2 fans is like saying you have to hold onto the surface of the earth to avoid being flung into space as it rotates. An extreme example, but the point is natural convection is negligible to case airflow.

I might be having a moment, but it appears you 360 radiator is missing from your list. Also, might I suggest a water temp sensor? Not necessary, but it can be helpful if you have questions once you install if you have problems.

Finally,if you haven't bought a PSU yet 1000W is overkill for that CPU with a single graphics card. Check out the PSU forum. You'll actually hurt your efficiency.
I suppose natural convection may be negligible to case airflow, but I don't see how sucking cold air and dumping it all into the case is the "optimal" way. Even if it is a minor difference, the temp difference is still there, even it negative pressure may mean more dust on the inside.

You are right, the 360 radiator is not on the list I will be adding it.

Thank for the suggestion for a water temp sensor and regarding the PSU. I will look to add a sensor for sure.

I was thinking of keeping this PSU for the next couple builds since Seasonic Titanium carries a 12 year warranty. I was thinking future proofing till at least the Nvidia Volta, or whatever AMD comes out with next if it is better. Usually AMD cards are more power hungry and I wanted to keep my options open, that is why I chose the 1000W. 750W is probably already enough even with the overclocking. I'll think about this one a little more.
 
#10 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by StillClock1 View Post

Hey ChickenSoup4U,

Below are some thoughts (and probably too much unsolicited advice), as said above I think its a great build and well thought-out already.
  • Definitely recommend soft tubing for first time. I just did my first water cooled build in August and was thankful for the forgiveness of soft tubing. I can't think of anything I got right on the first try.
  • Good call above on the drain valve, you might need it immediately or a 1 year or so from now when you change coolant, but you will need it at some point. This will necessitate a three way valve (ball valve) and a drain port. Below are Amazon links, I did the same thing. Most importantly, you'll want to put this at the lowest point in your loop (right before it goes into the vertical 360 rad or right as it comes out of it.)
  • Remember to bleed your loop for air bubbles, will be tough in your case since your reservoir sits in the middle (height-wise) of your liquid. Highest point in loop is ideal for letting bubbles rise to top.
  • I got the same PWM pump, you may want to consider a non-pwm pump as the ramp-does take some tinkering in the BIOS/Speedfan so you don't hear it. Non-PWM offers more of a set-it-and forget it option. That said, I like to run mine on a curve where if nothing is going on, pumps at like 900rpms, and ramps up as temps go up - higher flow rate / head pressure lowered my temps significantly (yours too with two radiators).
  • I don't expect you'd have cyclonic issues with that pump/res combo, I have not and I've laid it on its side as well as vertically.
  • I agree with SavantStrike, I'd recommend not doing all intakes. I'd do intake on bottom with 140s and exhaust through both rads. Sometimes a little negative pressure helps with temps, but positive is best for dust control, and since your intakes are on the floor that will be an issue for you (don't sit this PC on high carpet bc of that). Depending on rad fin density, a few 140s on the bottom may be equivalent to the 6 140mm fan exhausts through radiators.
  • Lastly, a paperclip really does work fine for the bridging (but if the $3 gives you peace of mind, no harm there).
  • Not that you asked, but something I wish I would have done differently with the 7700k (and I know 8700k has heat issues as well) is delid it. Ideally buy a pre-binned 5Ghz+ one from Silicon lottery and have them delid it for you. I have an overkill cooling setup but can't push the CPU that hard since the temps jump up so fast on me. Once you set up your liquid cooling its pretty hard to take it apart and change this.
This will require a lot of fittings and 90 degree turns (which will add up fast), its hard to get it exactly so just take your best guess and return the extras to Amazon. I wouldn't order anything you don't need to get from EKWB because return shipping to Slovenia is probably a lot. I would guess you're looking at 13 90-degree fittings (for nice clean lines/turns as you have laid out) and about 20 barb/compression fittings. The reason the number of fittings are so high is because you need a barb/compression fitting for every place you're screwing into a rad/block as well as the other side of any 90 degree fitting. You'll need to match tubing size with fitting size.

If you decide to go soft tubing, I used the below combinations and know they fit together:
Tubing: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A9ZDK44/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1\
EK Fittings: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KKRUWDW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
90 Degree Rotary Fittings: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KMS52A2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
EK 45 Degree Rotary Fittings: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KMRM6HA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ball Valve (drain port): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015YRLN4A/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
3 way fitting (for drain port) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0C344V/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks a bunch for the thorough explanations and recommendations!

I may just go with soft tubing. Your own experiences for a first time builder has swayed me.

About not doing all intakes, is what I currently have set up right? Or do you mean I should be pushing the air into the case instead of what I have in the diagram? Or swapping the front to air in and keeping the top like I already have?

Could you explain a little more what you mean by paper clip?

I have thought about buying a binned, delidded 8700K, I'll take a look at how much extra that is going to cost me.
 
#11 ·
Soft tube for first time is a good idea.

i would go front = intake and top exhaust.

My case has front and top intake and push everything out of the back..
 
#12 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by toolmaker03 View Post

well I see people all the time using that EK parts picker, and really thinking that this is it, I can get it all right here in one spot.
I would not suggest using any EK rotary fittings, bitspower or barrow only.
EK radiators are fine, but hardware labs radiators are better.
EK water blocks, well that's on you, there is plenty of info available, the only way I would buy a EK water block, is if EK was the only one that made a GPU water block for my video card.
bits power makes some nice reservoirs.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1615072/cpu-and-radiator-upgrade-on-water-cooled-rig
http://www.overclock.net/t/1573189/serial-vs-parallel-9-6lpm
http://www.overclock.net/t/1584867/tec-chill-box-chamber-build-log

I place a parts list at the front of each of my build logs, what I would like to point out is that none of my builds have EK parts in them.
EK is a mid grade company at best, they make useable water cooling parts, but there build quality leaves much to be desired.
redface.gif
I see. I thought EK was a good brand, I am from Taiwan so I am able to get Bitspower and Barrow as well. I will take a look and compare the 3 brands. I did indeed wanted to just buy and forget, so I did not read too much into which brand was actually better, better quality, value, etc.

Out of Bitspower and EK, which one is better? (I don't think I am going to consider Barrow as it is a mainland Chinese brand. I have a little bit of doubt regarding its quality.)
 
#13 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewmp6 View Post

I will throw in one tip for cutting the tubing go to your local hardware type store and get a tubing cutter that will cut that size tubing.Its worth spending the little bit on one vs trying to use a razor blade or a pair scissors.The tubing cutter will give you a lot straighter cut and easier to use which both will save you time and prevent any leaks from a not straight cut leaking.And what country are you in ?
Okay, thanks for the recommendation. I am considering using soft tubing as another person suggested since it is my first build. However if I do remain with the hard tubing, I will do as you said.

I am located in Taiwan.
 
#14 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChickenSoup4U View Post

Thanks a bunch for the thorough explanations and recommendations!

I may just go with soft tubing. Your own experiences for a first time builder has swayed me.

About not doing all intakes, is what I currently have set up right? Or do you mean I should be pushing the air into the case instead of what I have in the diagram? Or swapping the front to air in and keeping the top like I already have?

Could you explain a little more what you mean by paper clip?

I have thought about buying a binned, delidded 8700K, I'll take a look at how much extra that is going to cost me.
Hey ChickenSoup4U,

Regarding the air flow, I like it just as you have laid out up above in the picture. Its uncommon to have air coming in throught he upper back single fan, but I think its needed to give you close to neutral pressure when compared to 2x360s in exhaust. Seems easy enough to switch around if you feel the bottom fans give you enough intake. I have never really heard of radiator intakes working well since you're pushing hotter air across your components - not going to kill your system, but will perform sub-optimally.

If you connect any green wire with the black wire with a paper clip, it is the same as what a bridging plug will do. Its only $3 so it was probably penny-wise and pound-foolish for me to even bring it up.
 
#15 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChickenSoup4U View Post

I suppose natural convection may be negligible to case airflow, but I don't see how sucking cold air and dumping it all into the case is the "optimal" way. Even if it is a minor difference, the temp difference is still there, even it negative pressure may mean more dust on the inside.

You are right, the 360 radiator is not on the list I will be adding it.

Thank for the suggestion for a water temp sensor and regarding the PSU. I will look to add a sensor for sure.

I was thinking of keeping this PSU for the next couple builds since Seasonic Titanium carries a 12 year warranty. I was thinking future proofing till at least the Nvidia Volta, or whatever AMD comes out with next if it is better. Usually AMD cards are more power hungry and I wanted to keep my options open, that is why I chose the 1000W. 750W is probably already enough even with the overclocking. I'll think about this one a little more.
For heat being dumped into the case, remember it will only be 10 degrees Celsius or so over ambient. If it is higher, there is a problem with your loop design. That is part of why I recommended the temp sensor.

Also, I don't recommend one radiator being intake and another exhaust. The exhaust radiator will be intaking the "hot" air from the intake radiator. That will make it a lot less effective. It is better than not having a second, but be careful comparing to other builds and be prepared to see 15-20 Celsius over ambient water temperature.
 
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