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Asus P5N32-E Overclocking Guide - Page 441

post #4401 of 5659
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benny99 View Post
Um yes u have to remove the whole heatpipes and the Mosfets.
Yes, I know you have to remove the whole heatpipe system if you install any aftermarket cooling on the north- or southbridge.

I was just wondering if you replaced those two parts (i.e. not the north- and southbridge themselves, but the components covered by the finned sinks at the other ends of the pipes) with new heatsinks of some kind, or just left them bare. Sorry if I wasn't clear.
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post #4402 of 5659
The Parts that will be left bare will be the mosfets u can leave them Bare or u can install Mosfet Heatsinks or A Antec Spot cool fan over them.
post #4403 of 5659
Not sure whether this should go here but I have a problem with my P5N32-E SLI, i had tried to change the RAM timings to 4-4-4-12 and now the comp wont even POST. I tried clearing CMOS via the jumper and even removed the backup battery and removed all power from the pc for a long period of time. Still I dont get any beeps or see the POST screen.

All fans (CPU, case, GPU etc) turn on. The GPU (8800 GTS) fan is on maximum, which it is only meant to stay on for a few seconds and then slow down to normal performance.

I have removed all RAM and tried to boot, still nothing. I tried one stick at a time in every slot, still nothing.

I haven't tempered with anything else. Can you let me know whether the RAM has fried or the mobo? Also does anyone know what fried RAM looks like, is it easy to spot?

Cheers and thanks in advance.
post #4404 of 5659
Quote:
Originally Posted by abe_joker View Post
Hey guys i have my CPU overclocked to 2925.0mhz or 2.9ghz. Voltages are:

Vcore: 1.3125v
CPUVTT: 1.55
NB: 1.40
SB: 1.55
and mem = 2.1v

Question is: look at the screenshot...everest tells me the Cores temps are too high and CoreTemp tells the same...but speedFan tells another thing...
Im so confused...

and btw, it's happening with my video card too...Rivatuner says one thing but GPU-z says another :S
please read this article for your answer :

http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...mputronix.html

some program like speedfan need correction .EVEREST Ultimate Edition 4.20.1261 beta and newer beta version show all parameters correctly .

Quote:
Originally Posted by Benny99 View Post
Why are u running 1T on ure Memory...

if ure running stock it should be 4-4-4-15-2T
OCZ ram can operate at 1T with P5N32-E SLI .My ram at the moment operate at 4-4-4-8 800MHZ when I overclock my system.

you should first overclock your cpu and then change your ram timeing .
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post #4405 of 5659
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benny99 View Post
And btw ure MCP is ure Northbridge voltage.



That is Mine at 3.7ghz with 1.5v on the NB however im using The Thermaltake Spirits II on the NB and SB, and my ambient temp is 25 today. Ambient temp makes a huge difference on temps.
Quote:
Originally Posted by avatar1983 View Post
I assume you mean MCP is northbridge temperature, not voltage, here.
Attention :

MCP = SB = South Bridge
SPP = NB = North Bridge


when you use EVEREST Ultimate Edition it show NB (North Bridge) as mainboard temperature .
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post #4406 of 5659
Quote:
Originally Posted by rusbadboy View Post
Not sure whether this should go here but I have a problem with my P5N32-E SLI, i had tried to change the RAM timings to 4-4-4-12 and now the comp wont even POST. I tried clearing CMOS via the jumper and even removed the backup battery and removed all power from the pc for a long period of time. Still I dont get any beeps or see the POST screen.

All fans (CPU, case, GPU etc) turn on. The GPU (8800 GTS) fan is on maximum, which it is only meant to stay on for a few seconds and then slow down to normal performance.

I have removed all RAM and tried to boot, still nothing. I tried one stick at a time in every slot, still nothing.

I haven't tempered with anything else. Can you let me know whether the RAM has fried or the mobo? Also does anyone know what fried RAM looks like, is it easy to spot?

Cheers and thanks in advance.
P.S. My specs are:

Q6600 (Zalman fan)
4GB Kingston 667
TruePower Trio 550Watt PSU
8800 GTS 512

P.P.S. The system worked fine prior to changing the memory timings.

Lastly, I had applied the following settings in BIOS prior to the stuff up:

Quote:
AI Tuning: Manual
Nvidia GPU Ex: Disabled
LinkBoost: Disabled

FSB - Memory Clock Mode: Unlinked
x FSB - Memory Ratio: N/A
FSB (QDR), Mhz: 1700 (means 425FSB)
Actual FSB (QDR), Mhz: 1700
MEM (DDR), Mhz: 800 (means 400mhz speeds)
Actual MEM (DDR), Mhz: 880.2

Vcore Voltage: AUTO
Memory Voltage: 2AUTO
1.2v HT Voltage: AUTO
NB Core Voltage: AUTO
SB Core Voltage: AUTO
CPU VTT Voltage: AUTO
DDRII Controller Ref Voltage: AUTO
DDRII Channel A Ref Voltage: AUTO
DDRII Channel B Ref Voltage: AUTO

tCL (CAS Latency): 4
tRCD: 4
tRP: 4
tRAS: 8
Command Per Clock (CMD): 2 clock (2T)

Advance Memory Settings
tRRD: AUTO
tRC: AUTO
tWR: AUTO
tWTR: AUTO
tREF: AUTO
Async Latency: AUTO
post #4407 of 5659
Quote:
Originally Posted by PersianOverClocker View Post
Attention :

MCP = SB = South Bridge
SPP = NB = North Bridge


when you use EVEREST Ultimate Edition it show NB (North Bridge) as mainboard temperature .
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benny99
And btw ure MCP is ure Northbridge [temperature].
Right, I'm slightly confused now, as the two of you have conflicting information. Googling seems to indicate that yes, the MCP is the southbridge. In particular, there is a thread on the everest forums:
http://www.lavalys.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=2917

In there the lavalys staff confirm that the MCP sensor is in the southbridge, and the motherboard sensor is in the IT8718F super-io chip directly, not the northbridge.

Also, the northbridge heatsink is warm, but the copper block on the southbridge is quite hot to the touch.

So maybe I'm experiencing a temperature issue in the chipset when it reboots?

Quote:
Originally Posted by PersianOverClocker
OCZ ram can operate at 1T with P5N32-E SLI .My ram at the moment operate at 4-4-4-8 800MHZ when I overclock my system.

you should first overclock your cpu and then change your ram timeing .
Well, as I said before, the 4-4-4-15 T1 timings are what where set automatically. The OCZ product page for my modules confirms they are rated for these timings, including T1:

http://www.ocztechnology.com/product...n_dual_channel

Anyway, if people think it will help, I'm happy to back of to T2. I don't know if it will make much difference, as I can pass memtest86+ with these settings, even when the fsb is set to 333.

Will experiment with T2 timings today and see how it goes.

Thanks a lot for the help so far, by the way. This community is ace!
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post #4408 of 5659
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benny99 View Post
The Parts that will be left bare will be the mosfets u can leave them Bare or u can install Mosfet Heatsinks or A Antec Spot cool fan over them.
Do you think that is necessary on this board / did you do that?
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post #4409 of 5659
Quote:
Originally Posted by rusbadboy View Post
Not sure whether this should go here but I have a problem with my P5N32-E SLI, i had tried to change the RAM timings to 4-4-4-12 and now the comp wont even POST. I tried clearing CMOS via the jumper and even removed the backup battery and removed all power from the pc for a long period of time. Still I dont get any beeps or see the POST screen.

All fans (CPU, case, GPU etc) turn on. The GPU (8800 GTS) fan is on maximum, which it is only meant to stay on for a few seconds and then slow down to normal performance.

I have removed all RAM and tried to boot, still nothing. I tried one stick at a time in every slot, still nothing.

I haven't tempered with anything else. Can you let me know whether the RAM has fried or the mobo? Also does anyone know what fried RAM looks like, is it easy to spot?

Cheers and thanks in advance.
Try removing the ram completely, and starting up the system. If you get beeps, then board is probably fine.

I have also read (in the OP) that this board sometimes undervolts ram. This can be an issue if your ram is touchy, and has prevented some people from posting until the got into the bios using different ram and set the voltages manually. Sometimes it apparently helps to use only one module, try all the different slots. If you get to the bios, manually set your ram's rated voltage in the overvoltage setting, put it all back and see if that helps. This is the relevant bit of the OP:

Quote:
Important!: Always set ram voltage manually upon first boot. This board undervolts memory from factory settings when left to auto. For example, my ram is rated stock at 2.1 Volts. The auto setting had it running at 1.89. Even though my system ran fine, I had occasional crashes until I changed the volts to 2.1 manually.

Worse, many types of ram will not work correctly with this board if they are undervolted. If the system will not boot on initial build, try one stick in the slot closest to the cpu until it boots and enter the bios. Immediately change the ram voltage to defaults for the memory you are using. Save,shut down, install the rest of your ram and then reboot normally.

For those of you that do not think "SLI Ready" and "EPP Profile" RAM have any value, think again!. One thing the 680i boards have shown is that they are finicky on what RAM they like for stable overclocks. Any RAM that has one or both of the above designations demonstrates that this RAM has been tested specifically for compatibility with the 680i chipset boards. Also as long as you get OCZ or Corsair PC2-8500 or better, it will most likely have Micron D9 IC's which as we all know are the best for Overclocking.
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post #4410 of 5659
i have just removed all RAM and the video card and disconnected all drives except the main IDE one. I get no beeps. I get no POST and cant get into BIOS. Does this mean the mobo is dead?

UPDATE:

Just pulled the whole comp apart and put the mobo on wooden floor and powered it up with CPU only. I checked the CPU first, it doesn't appear to be fried, no burn marks no discoloration, no burn odour. I still got no beeps.... is the mobo fried????
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