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Asus P5N32-E Overclocking Guide - Page 447

post #4461 of 5659
Quote:
Originally Posted by miya View Post
Meh, I'm not hardcore enough for watercooling and isn't going air all the rage now?

Anyway I think I found a solution to part of my question after some random clicking in the thread.

Now I need to find a way to add some active cooling to the SB with the damn HR-03 hanging over it.
I'm going to recive and try some Thermalright HR-05 SLI IFX sinks for NB and SB today. They have the fins ofset by some 30mm to one side of the heatsink base. You should be able to fit one of these to the sb. I'll let you know how my fittings work yout when the post gets here.
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post #4462 of 5659
Quote:
Originally Posted by avatar1983 View Post
I'm going to recive and try some Thermalright HR-05 SLI IFX sinks for NB and SB today. They have the fins ofset by some 30mm to one side of the heatsink base. You should be able to fit one of these to the sb. I'll let you know how my fittings work yout when the post gets here.
Nice I hope you'll have some pics.

After reading some of Dosto's later posts, seems like I can use the Vantec Icebergs to cool the SB, but the HR-05 SLIs seem a lot more powerful. Hope you have success with your setup.
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post #4463 of 5659
Just updated my bios to 1403 on my p5n32-e sli. It seems it can't be downgraded. Bios say older bios are incompatible.

My e4500 is now at 3300Mhz 1.55volts.

Previously running at 3200Mhz and unable to hit any fsb higher than 1185.
Also unable to boot with lower multi.

Custom w/c cpu with SpiritII on NB/SB and heatsinks on mosfets.

Orthos can run for 30mins+ but temps are getting close to 65C to 70Cwith everest vista 64bit.

Hot over here in Perth, might have to lap cpu.
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post #4464 of 5659
, Sorry

Might I propose a quick overview on "Watercooling"?

I have been running a watercooling system for 3+ years; CPU and graphics cards. I check all the tubes once every 6 months. Leakage is not the worry.

You(and I) all spend an inordinate amount of time reading about and doing OCing. There is a great deal more risk in that than watercooling, nowadays. Just as with OCing, you read a lot and learn, then act.

To give you a comparison, it is like saying that you prefer not to fly because when a plane crashes everybody dies. Yet it is riskier taking any other form of transport, including walking on the pavement(Sidewalk for our NA bretheren) and you do it every day without a second thought. You believe that you are more in control if you are driving the car or walking, but actually that control is an illusion. You cannot control a single one of the external factors that comprise the majority of the risks.

With regards to the external radiators, that is a matter of choice. I agree that an external radiator(really only used with passive watercooling) may not be everyone's cup of tea. I choose it for the noise reduction. Eventually mine will do the job of 3-5 fans and give more stability. It should be noted, however, that many very good watercooling systems fit comfortably inside cases. I am considering putting in a secondary, active(Fans), watercooling system in for the graphics cards or the North and South bridges. That one would fit inside the case.

Think about it. If you are prepared to OC then you are already a calculated risk taker. I would suggest that you might be a candidate for watercooling. I am only suggesting that you read more about it before dismissing it out of hand. The upside of watercooling is temperature stability, heat dissipation and noise reduction.

BTW, I have three computers and the other two are entirely air-cooled. So it is not that I disagree with good air-cooling.
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post #4465 of 5659
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe_Lost View Post
, Sorry

Might I propose a quick overview on "Watercooling"?

I have been running a watercooling system for 3+ years; CPU and graphics cards. I check all the tubes once every 6 months. Leakage is not the worry.

You(and I) all spend an inordinate amount of time reading about and doing OCing. There is a great deal more risk in that than watercooling, nowadays. Just as with OCing, you read a lot and learn, then act.

To give you a comparison, it is like saying that you prefer not to fly because when a plane crashes everybody dies. Yet it is riskier taking any other form of transport, including walking on the pavement(Sidewalk for our NA bretheren) and you do it every day without a second thought. You believe that you are more in control if you are driving the car or walking, but actually that control is an illusion. You cannot control a single one of the external factors that comprise the majority of the risks.

With regards to the external radiators, that is a matter of choice. I agree that an external radiator(really only used with passive watercooling) may not be everyone's cup of tea. I choose it for the noise reduction. Eventually mine will do the job of 3-5 fans and give more stability. It should be noted, however, that many very good watercooling systems fit comfortably inside cases. I am considering putting in a secondary, active(Fans), watercooling system in for the graphics cards or the North and South bridges. That one would fit inside the case.

Think about it. If you are prepared to OC then you are already a calculated risk taker. I would suggest that you might be a candidate for watercooling. I am only suggesting that you read more about it before dismissing it out of hand. The upside of watercooling is temperature stability, heat dissipation and noise reduction.

BTW, I have three computers and the other two are entirely air-cooled. So it is not that I disagree with good air-cooling.
Thanks for your post.There is no doubt that watercooling is better than air cooling.I read somewhere that said the worst watercooling system have better performance than best air cooling system.just like comparing CTR and LCD monitor in mater of their gama ray danger for eyes.

for example my problem with water cooling is that I already spend money for good air cooling system for my cpu ,case,NB,SB and MOSFETS . At the moment.also noise is very important matter for me and I try to avoid my system to become too noisy .
At the moment I use NOCTUA NH-U12F as cpu cooler which just has 17 dBA noise.

http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=p...ts_id=6&lng=en

North Bridge cooler is Extreme Spirit II which has 19 dBA noise .I also placed a 40mm ultra-low noise fans behinde it for better cooling performance because the Extreme Spirit II become so hot.

http://thermaltakeusa.com/product/co...4/cl-c0034.asp

My South Bridge cooler is thermalright HR-05 SLI .

http://www.thermalright.com/new_a_pa...50aHVzaWFzdA==

I also place a 80 mm Thermaltake LED fan behind thermalright HR-05 SLI which point air directly to it and it has 21 dBA noise.

http://thermaltakeusa.com/2005/dcfan...derblade80.htm

My power is OCZ GameXStream 850 Watt which has 120 mm LED fan and it's so quiet .

http://www.ocztechnology.com/product...dia_sli_ready_

My case is Thermaltake Armor With 25 cm fan side panel which is nVIDIA SLI certified Chassis .Case cooling system is :
Front (intake) 120x120x25 mm, Blue LED Fan, 1300rpm, 17dBA
Side (Intake) 250 x 250 x 30 mm fan, 600rpm, 15dBA
Rear (exhaust) 120 x 120 x25 mm blue LED fan, 1300rpm, 17dBA
90 x 90 x 25mm, 1800rpm, 19dBA
Top (exhaust) 90 x 90 x 25mm, 1800rpm, 19dBA

http://thermaltakeusa.com/product/Ch.../va8003bws.asp

My VGA is EN8800GTX AquaTank/HTDP/768M which use water and air cooling system together .it has switch for turn fan to high speed and low speed and with low speed it is very quiet.

http://www.asus.com/products.aspx?l1...65&modelmenu=1

For MOSFETS I use asus MOSFETS headsink which is attached to NB and SB orginal pip cooling system BUT I first extract their plastic pins,then I deformed them is a way that I can use them inside case and they don't have conflict with any other part and then I stick them to MOSFETS with DOW CORNING 3140 RTV COATING .I Also use 2x 60mm ultra-low noise fans behind them which cool them perfectly.(The only problem is that if something happened to my system and you want to use asus warranty service ,I have problem because I had deformed those piping system and I should try to back them to normal mode .)
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post #4466 of 5659
For your MOSFETS, remove the ASUS standard and buy some VGA RAM(VRAM) heatsinks. They fit on individually and usually come with adhesive thermal pads.

For instance ZM-RHS1's, as a set from Zalman.

http://www.zalman.com/ENG/product/Pr...ad.asp?idx=136

.........or you could remove even those thermal pads and use your thermal adhesive to stick them, if you prefer.

That way you can keep the original Asus sinks for any RMAing.

================================================== =========================================

I appreciate that watercooling is not the cheapest, especially if you already have a full air-cooling set.

For those considering it I would recommend a watercooling kit to start with:

Cheaper end:

Thermaltake Bigwater 735
http://thermaltakeusa.com/product/Li...5/cl-w0075.asp

Thermaltake Bigwater 760i
http://thermaltakeusa.com/product/Li...1/cl-w0121.asp


Zalman Reserator V2
http://www.zalman.com/ENG/product/Pr...ad.asp?idx=184

Expensive End

There are more kits out there, but Zalman and Thermaltake are very reliable and reasonably easy to set up.

Later you can learn more and build your own from components, but to start that way is like fiddling with voltages and timings the first time that you OC instead of starting gently with something like Ai overclocking.
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post #4467 of 5659
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe_Lost View Post
For your MOSFETS, remove the ASUS standard and buy some VGA RAM(VRAM) heatsinks. They fit on individually and usually come with adhesive thermal pads.

For instance ZM-RHS1's, as a set from Zalman.

http://www.zalman.com/ENG/product/Pr...ad.asp?idx=136

.........or you could remove even those thermal pads and use your thermal adhesive to stick them, if you prefer.

That way you can keep the original Asus sinks for any RMAing.

I appreciate that watercooling is not the cheapest, especially if you already have a full air-cooling set.

For those considering it I would recommend a watercooling kit to start with:

Cheaper end:

Thermaltake Bigwater 735
http://thermaltakeusa.com/product/Li...5/cl-w0075.asp

Thermaltake Bigwater 760i
http://thermaltakeusa.com/product/Li...1/cl-w0121.asp


Zalman Reserator V2
http://www.zalman.com/ENG/product/Pr...ad.asp?idx=184

Expensive End

There are more kits out there, but Zalman and Thermaltake are very reliable and reasonably easy to set up.

Later you can learn more and build your own from components, but to start that way is like fiddling with voltages and timings the first time that you OC instead of starting gently with something like Ai overclocking.
At the moment and with my setup MOSFETS become so cold ,I can easyly touch headsinks and they are at very good temp.
I forget to said ,I first remove that thermal pads and use DOW CORNING 3140 RTV COATING which is very good and professional thermal adhesive.

Sorry

About watercooling as long as my research show Danger Den and Swiftech are very good brand too.
Also there is very good article about comparing watercooling system at :


http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coo...ercooling.html
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post #4468 of 5659
Nice site.
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post #4469 of 5659
Quote:
Originally Posted by sirokket16 View Post
If you can hit 400 FSB then you can get your RAM to DDR800 and you can favor tighter timings over higher speed and achieve better performance. Your RAM should be able to do 4-4-4-12-2T at 925. However, make sure your CPU is completely stable before you tinker with your RAM settings.
well I'm 24 hours orthos stable at 370x9. I may try again at 333x10 but that I think was a fsb hole with my board. I doubt I can do 400x9 with my vcore at 1.4v. I know 1:1 would give me better results; 400x8 gave better memory scores, but lower cpu scores while 370x9 gave higher cpu scores but lower memory scores. Does anyone think I could hit 1110 with my ram so I would have at least 3:2. I'm currently 5:4 (925/370) but with loose timings so my memory scores are lower.
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post #4470 of 5659
damn Micro Center for giving me hard decisions. They have the Q6600 on sale for $200. my e6700 is maxed out at 3.33ghz. So I'm debating if getting a q6600 would be beneficial for me at this point. I do some video work on occasion, so the question remains: 3.33ghz e6700 vs. q6600?
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