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Huge problem with Radeon X1950 Pro 256 MB PCI-E - Page 2

post #11 of 42
I always like throwing out the dumb questions first, but was/is the card OC'd at all? If so, what software did you use?

BSOD doesn't sound like a driver issue to me, could verify that though my unpluggin your NIC and uninstalling the ATI drivers and let windows load a default driver. If you still BSOD, you've got your answer.
    
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post #12 of 42
Thread Starter 
Well few times it did BSOD, and somewhere there was a name: ati2dvag.

That name is related to driver, but then again, BSOD happened only few times, most of the times it just froze or throwed black screen and lost signal to monitor (monitor light started blinking).
    
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post #13 of 42
yeah 400 is pretty weak especially for a c2d ati system.
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post #14 of 42
Thread Starter 
Well, what is the difference between FLAT PSU and REAL PSU?
Anyway , it is: Silent 400W 12cm with cooler Active PFC .
Read my posts from page 1 too.
    
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post #15 of 42
the reason I asked if it was OC'd or not is because ATI cards use different clock speeds for 2D/3D unless you manually force the same clocks.

If you OC'd the card and didn't force the 3D clocks you will get system crashes and BSOD's
    
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post #16 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bliz View Post
Well, what is the difference between FLAT PSU and REAL PSU?
Anyway , it is: Silent 400W 12cm with cooler Active PFC .
Read my posts from page 1 too.
Sounds like they're giving you a BS line. There is a difference between a PSU that can deliver clean power at it's max rated power output, and a PSU (usually cheaper) that tends to deliver "dirty" (inconsistent) power at it's max power output--this MIGHT be what they mean, but in my experience, "silent" PSU's generally aren't able to put out as much clean power when drawing a lot from them--because the components in the PSU heat up a lot due to inadequate cooling (the downside of having them be silent).

I can't say for certain, but I'd also blame the PSU. If you have another PCI-E card, or know someone that can lend you a cheaper one (that requires less power), give that a shot--if you're still running into the problems, it's probably the PSU. Replacing the PSU could also do the same thing. Anyway, hopefully it all works out okay--nothing's more frustrating than not being able to use a new computer you bought. Good luck!
    
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post #17 of 42
Thread Starter 
Yeah, That's right, that is what they mean.
Anyways, i still got to wait till monday, so can't do nothing yet, still thanks for all the help!
Oh, forgot to add, that powersupply came with that chieftec case.
This forum is really good
    
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post #18 of 42
never give your computer to technicians,they'll make u think there SERIOUS people doing SERIOUS things with your computer,that takes alotta time in adjusting the cables and playing with the mghz O.o
they are giving you a full load of holyday package special load of BS

and its probably the PSU as for 400 watt is not really enough for a 1950PRO,which is not like the XT or XTX but still is a powerhungry card
not to mention the other compnents your using
    
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post #19 of 42
Thread Starter 
But...yeah...It was bought complete, and It's kinda hard to belive, that they put some crappy weak PSU-s in ready PC.

Also they say, that the PSU is just fine, but I dont belive them.
Those symptoms what i said in 1st post, does those happen because of weak PSU then? Because when im just in internet and/or listening music etc, it's just fine, but when any 3D application, those symptoms appear.
What happens when volt regulators overheat?, also really wierd is that, the BSOD screen happened only few times, at that blue screen there was alot of some text and also there was mentioned ati2dvag file, which refers something to drivers. Though i've have installed drivers just like i always have.

It's REALLY confusing me, so many different symptoms and im not sure what EXACTLY causes this.
    
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post #20 of 42
BSOD's are most commonly caused by RAM problems (low-quality RAM or misconfigured RAM), and indirectly by bad PSU's. Every component in your computer is highly-dependent on good, clean power from the PSU. For example, while your RAM might be just fine, if the PSU isn't able to deliver constant clean power to the RAM (for whatever reason, whether the PSU is failing, or if it cannot output enough power), you'll get memory errors (even if the memory is of ultra-high quality), which will lead to a BSOD.

Perhaps you didn't experience any problems until you started gaming because if you ignore the power required by your GPU, the power from the PSU you have is adequate for regular tasks. But GPU's can draw A LOT of power, which pushes the PSU into a certain state of questionable power quality (for lower-quality PSU's)--this will introduce many problems, but are all, eventually, traced back to the PSU.

My advice would be to ditch the PSU that came with the case and get a better quality one.

Depending on the number of accessories you have in your computer, many people say that you'll need at least a 600w PSU for the x1950pro. But to be honest, a GOOD 450w PSU is all you need--it's worked for me so far. But in your case, unfortunately you seem to have a questionable-quality 400w PSU--two bad things which probably won't cut it for the x1950pro. That may be the issue--the PSU might work fine as far as tests go by the techs, but won't be enough to power graphic-intensive tasks like playing games while still delivering adequate power to the rest of the components (like the RAM...). More important to GPU's is not necessarily the peak power output of the PSU, but the current rating on the 12v line--the x1950pro requires 30 amps on the 12v line--even if you have a PSU that is high in overall power output, but does not have enough amperage on the 12v line, it won't work. Ask the techs about the amperage rating on the 12v line. If it's not 30v (if there are multiple 12v lines, simply add up the rated amperage--if it's under 30, there's your problem), ask the place you got the computer from why they would put an inadequate PSU in a computer they custom-build.

But the easiest solution would be to get yourself a good PSU. Antec's are adequate--that's what I use.

Hopefully all works out alright.
    
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