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Incredible X-Fi mod *WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY*, 56K WARNING - Page 53

post #521 of 979
Quote:
Originally Posted by EAT View Post
could the opamp pins be altered?
it's the same op-amp just a different package. the op-amps are tiny rectangles and normally the pins are on the 2 longer sides, but on the gamer they are on the two shorter sides. I have not looked at the pinout to see if you could manage to rotate a standard SOIC package chip into place, but I think others have reported that it doesn't work.

Like I said, you've got to be creative about it, but I'm sure it's possible. No, I haven't done it and I don't plan to attempt it either.
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post #522 of 979
Well, I've removed all 5 opamps, and the old capacitor. I've soldered 1 of the new opamps in and also the larger capacitor. It took 4 attempts to successfully solder 8 legs. On the previous 3 attempts, at some point I got solder to overlap and short 2 legs together. If this happens again, does anyone have an easier solution other than removing the entire opamp and starting over? Talk about a PITA!!
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post #523 of 979
Quote:
Originally Posted by sccr64472 View Post
Well, I've removed all 5 opamps, and the old capacitor. I've soldered 1 of the new opamps in and also the larger capacitor. It took 4 attempts to successfully solder 8 legs. On the previous 3 attempts, at some point I got solder to overlap and short 2 legs together. If this happens again, does anyone have an easier solution other than removing the entire opamp and starting over? Talk about a PITA!!
Jeeze, you are having a tough time man. That never happened once to me.

Ar you using a fine tip soldering iron? You can file it it make it finer. Really, you need it pretty fine to solder such small legs.


Anyway, you could use a little spring solder sucker that you can get from radioshack to suck the excess solder. They are kind of hard to use on those small points. Or you could use a copper solder braid to remove the solder, I don't have much luck with those either.

Really, the best way would be to just remove it again with a heatgun and get rid of all the solder when you can get a close look at it.



Frankly, I am surprised that nothing is broken as a result of those shorted legs.
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post #524 of 979
Quote:
Originally Posted by sccr64472 View Post
Well, I've removed all 5 opamps, and the old capacitor. I've soldered 1 of the new opamps in and also the larger capacitor. It took 4 attempts to successfully solder 8 legs. On the previous 3 attempts, at some point I got solder to overlap and short 2 legs together. If this happens again, does anyone have an easier solution other than removing the entire opamp and starting over? Talk about a PITA!!
with a little practice you can use the soler tip just like a paint brush to wipe away excess solder.

Clean your tip (wet sponge works well, or Hakko makes a nice alternative.
put the flat (blade) part of the tip against the op-amp legs
start near the op-amp and just wipe excess solder away.

It might take a couple runs, but it'll clean up. If you have way too much then desoldering braid will help, but I'm too impatient for that and use a solder sucker instead. $20 will get you a nice one. (Yeah I know that many people here have irons that cost less... but trust me it's well worth it, but then again so is the Hakko 936 soldering station that is a permanent fixture on my desk)
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post #525 of 979
Yeah, usually that is what I do. Clean your iron off so it is "dry" and doesn't have any solder on it.

Then run your iron over the legs of the opamp and pick up the solder. Then, wipe it off on something metal to remove all the solder.

Repeat.
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post #526 of 979
Quote:
Originally Posted by D3DAiM View Post
Frankly, I am surprised that nothing is broken as a result of those shorted legs.
Why would there be? There hasn't been any voltage applied to anything, so shorting 2 of the legs shouldn't be a big deal. What I am worried about is the fact that when I removed 2 of the old opamps, the metal connection on a total of 3 legs came off of the board with the opamp. I'm hoping I can get solder to stick to the board and I'll be fine, but who knows.

Edit: To clarify, the opamp legs didn't come off, but the solder pad underneath where the legs attach to the sound card.
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post #527 of 979
Quote:
Originally Posted by sccr64472 View Post
Why would there be? There hasn't been any voltage applied to anything, so shorting 2 of the legs shouldn't be a big deal. What I am worried about is the fact that when I removed 2 of the old opamps, the metal connection on a total of 3 legs came off of the board with the opamp. I'm hoping I can get solder to stick to the board and I'll be fine, but who knows.

Edit: To clarify, the opamp legs didn't come off, but the solder pad underneath where the legs attach to the sound card.
Oh, haha. I thought you had actually tried the card with the shorted legs. Sorry,

Anyway, I am sorry to hear about these solder pads coming off. I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but, usually, in these circumstances, the solder pad cannot be reapplied to the card with working contact. Usually, these solder pads are imbedded in the PCB.

On two seperate occasions I hat this same unfortunate event happen to me while soldering and I had ruined the item I was working on.


Maybe you will have better luck than I and it may still work. Good luck to you!
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post #528 of 979
Quote:
Originally Posted by D3DAiM View Post
Oh, haha. I thought you had actually tried the card with the shorted legs. Sorry,

Anyway, I am sorry to hear about these solder pads coming off. I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but, usually, in these circumstances, the solder pad cannot be reapplied to the card with working contact. Usually, these solder pads are imbedded in the PCB.

On two seperate occasions I hat this same unfortunate event happen to me while soldering and I had ruined the item I was working on.


Maybe you will have better luck than I and it may still work. Good luck to you!
I wouldn't doubt if the card is damaged, but I'm going to try to fill the pit with conductive window defroster repair fluid and then attempt to resolder the opamp. If it doesn't work on the first try, I'm going to buy a new sound card. I kind of wanted to get an Elite Pro anyways, so we'll see
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post #529 of 979
Quote:
Originally Posted by sccr64472 View Post
I wouldn't doubt if the card is damaged, but I'm going to try to fill the pit with conductive window defroster repair fluid and then attempt to resolder the opamp. If it doesn't work on the first try, I'm going to buy a new sound card. I kind of wanted to get an Elite Pro anyways, so we'll see
Good luck to you! I'd like to hear how this eventuates.
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post #530 of 979
I wish I could mod mine. I guess I have to wait for the Auzentech.
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