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Incredible X-Fi mod *WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY*, 56K WARNING - Page 75

post #741 of 979
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mootsfox View Post
Already have a pair of tweezers I use to hold it.

Quote:
your problem is probably your solder. I've never seen good solder that came from rat shack.
Didnt come from rat shack - came from Home Depot.

Quote:
lah... how hard would you say it is to replace just the OpAmp and nothing else for someone who's never done soldering before? Possibly the Blackgate mod as well. I read some talk of shorting stuff that I totally didn't understand... is that just for when you're replacing the capacitators near the Opamps?
Ive actually asked several people about the capacitors - and they say it doesnt make much of a difference. Maybe in bass they said. I just got mine today.

And no - my word to you. Dont attempt to do this yourself. XD
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post #742 of 979
Quote:
Originally Posted by CountChoculaBot View Post
Blah... how hard would you say it is to replace just the OpAmp and nothing else for someone who's never done soldering before? Possibly the Blackgate mod as well. I read some talk of shorting stuff that I totally didn't understand... is that just for when you're replacing the capacitators near the Opamps?
I would say they are both hard for difference reasons.

The power cap is difficult because there is a large heatsink nearby so you have to have the iron on the solder for quite a while, but if you keep it there too long you can ruin the card.

The op-amps are difficult because they are small and are detail work.
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post #743 of 979
Oh wow, just found out that one of my friends knows how to solder.

Is this mod very possible for someone who already has decent experience at soldering? Are there any special supplies for this mod that a person might not have on hand already (like that glue like substance I saw on the bottom of the blackgate? or is that solder? =\\)?
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post #744 of 979
the glue on the bottom is simply hot glue, used to insulate and hold the capacitor in place, if they have adequate solder skills it should be easy enough, just make sure you have a fine point soldering iron, and some good solder/solder wick. and go @ her
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post #745 of 979
+Rep to all 3 for bein' helpful

Just wondering, is the hot glue necessary? Or is it just an extra safety measure like a seat belt (bwahaha )?
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post #746 of 979
well hot glue is non conductive, and the top of capacitors can blow and release charge, so its more of a safety measure than anything, but I believe that its better to be safe then sorry.
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post #747 of 979
As H3||scr3am said, its mostly for support; though hot glue is a commonly used electrical insulator. Just an extra measure of safety - though one I'd use especially given the little effort and cost.
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post #748 of 979
Final questions before I order and start:
I still use the LM4562 if I want to replace the line in right?

I'm not sure what to get for the capacitator; there are two Blackgate 1000uf 16v on Parts Connexion:
BLKGATE- 60191 FK 1000 16v 16 x 32 $13.25
BLKGATE- 60219 Std 1000 16v 16 x 25 $4.75

These 5 opamps and the capacitator I circled are the right ones to replace right?


Also, this is good glue
http://www.createforless.com/product...e-f127d07061ee
and foam
http://www.createforless.com/product...roductID=15196
for mounting the ERS paper right?
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post #749 of 979
get the standard series.

those are the output op-amps
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post #750 of 979
Afraid I can't answer the capacitor question, but your diagram is correct and that foam should be fine. I would personally use hot glue over spray adhesive - you can control where it goes to avoid a mess and I know it's completely non-conductive.
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