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Incredible X-Fi mod *WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY*, 56K WARNING - Page 91

post #901 of 979
Quote:
Originally Posted by USlatin View Post
this one in particular is actually supposed to support all game sound processing...

I got a sheet of ERS paper, wish we could have done a little group buy, prices were annoyingly set so I would have a very hard time picking which way to go. Four of use buying together would have saved us a bundle.

http://www.partsconnexion.com/catalog/accessories.html
Instead of spending the money for ERS paper, could the anti static bag does the same job? If you put any electronic device in the bag, for example a cell phone, no signal is found. Thus this could be b/c it shields everything.
What do you guys think?

Thanks,
post #902 of 979
Quote:
Originally Posted by d3daiM View Post
Wait..what are you using the nichicons for? I thought you had a choice of replacing the power filter capacitor with either a blackgate (best choice) or a nichicon?
I would think any brand that is use for audio application would be better than the one already on there.
post #903 of 979
Quote:
Originally Posted by USlatin View Post
Like silver cables? lol!!! that's insane! but I want one really bad!

BTW:

sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet emoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooootion (Aerosmith)

This thing made my Logitech 5.1 speakers sound like real speakers! I can-not-wait to hear how a home entertainment set or better will sound!!!!!
I can now hear not only the guitars and base clearly defined, but it has become easy to hear the different multiple tracks within each instrument.
If you add some tweeters to the Logitech Z5500, it sounds even better. I use the anti static bag to shield my card all around.
post #904 of 979
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad_Dude View Post
If you add some tweeters to the Logitech Z5500, it sounds even better. I use the anti static bag to shield my card all around.
That won't improve them much. Still small midrange drivers in plastic enclosures with a crappy quality sub.
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post #905 of 979
Quote:
Originally Posted by ljason8eg View Post
That won't improve them much. Still small midrange drivers in plastic enclosures with a crappy quality sub.
Actually, it does improve to its limitation. The highs are mostly there where as before I cannot hear them. Not much else you can do with these other than go wild with the capacitors mod which I have the capacitors but have not done it yet. I might mod the oamp on the controller. But it takes time and which I don't have right now.
post #906 of 979
How is this modded card, which I have compares to the Asus Xonar DS card in terms of analog out for music? Any one tested them together?

Thanks,
post #907 of 979
Hi,

Someone mentioned using a product named Pro Gold to clean PCI contacts.

"Enhance your electronics.
This kit contains both DeoxIT Power Booster and ProGold Connector Enhancer sprays from Caig Laboratories to help improve the performance of your electrical devices.

Cleans any metal-to-metal contact to improve conductivity and reduce further oxidation
ProGold Connector Enhancer works on gold connections to improve conductivity and prevent oxidation
Both products have mini-spray applicators to make them easier to use
Used and recommended by Monster Cables®"

The funny thing about gold contacts and one of the main points in having them is that gold doesn't oxidize. It will however tarnish with a coat of expected pollutants surrounding it like tobbaco /dust.

If the contacts are at all good you'll have an oxygene free connection between pin and trace but the tarnish may get in the way of that so the most you should ever need is a little high purity alcohol like methyl hydrate and wipe the tar off it, and it'll shine like new.

Not sure I've ever hard of a soundcard with gold plated traces though but even typical copper traces can use a cleaning.

You could probably hit the pins n the PCI slot with a fine art paintbrush dipped into the alcohol and just give it enough time for any drops to evaporate but if it's caked right over it'll need a bath.

About removing op amps if the copper bonding is so cheap that they can't reliably be soldered I sure wouldn't trust it to endure removal of the op amps by cutting the SMD legs off them as you're always going to create uneeded stress on it that way.

What you can do is use a high quality iron and one that delivers enough of and the right amount of heat quickly, so that it heats the joint to melting, before the heat is absorbed to saturation by the surrounding traces and components. One indication of too weak a heat source is melting traces like that and when joint seems harder to solder it's around big electrolytic caps that are just rolled elements of AL foil so they're great heatsoaks and also "good" quality boards with full ground planes that are also highly desirable for every reason and good heat soaks.

The hardest joint to solder will be an intersection of the two, a large electrolytic and a healthy ground plane soaks away a lot of heat quickly, so it takes the right tools and skills to get it done right. Use an additional cheap iron for extra heat if you have to.

Per removal of the SMD op amps a few tricks and tools can help here as well, and the tools can be home made. What you want is to be on and off the joints quickly for minimal thermal strain and also while applying the least physical strain and that way the pads stay put but it also leaves you with a reusable component.

All you need is a bit of a heat plate to serve as a heat runner to extend the heat from the tip of the iron across all the leads of one side of the op amp, or even both at once like I do.

You can use a piece of thin solide core wire cut to size and placed across the leads of one side, lace the solder to it quickly and use enough to flood it completely, it'll travel across the wire as flood guide and you'll be able to pry up on the side. You clearly get the least strain doing both sides at once, be creative in bending or use two irons and pick it up like tweezers.

Practice that once or twice on some scrap parts and you'll see how easily and quickly it can be done so that when it counts you won't be on the part for an hour trying not to be on it. You can clean up the board and component alike for reuse with a little solder braid.
post #908 of 979
Can i do this on my lowly X-Fi Xtreme Audio PCI-E? Here's a picture of the card if it helps:



Apparently my card is a "software" x-fi, is this true? By the way guys i am an audiophile-in-training. hence the soundcard over onboard in the first place lol.
post #909 of 979
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad_Dude View Post
Instead of spending the money for ERS paper, could the anti static bag does the same job? If you put any electronic device in the bag, for example a cell phone, no signal is found. Thus this could be b/c it shields everything.
What do you guys think?

Thanks,
If you believe in how the ERS paper works as a technology even if it still served as a shield it wouldn't do the same job.

Cell phones have a certain frequency range of interest that by nature is likely easy enough to shield from while say a neighbouring video card presents another set of issues at also maybe different power levels, and blocking reception isn't the same task as say the noise from the onboard regulators and amplifiers.

The idea of the chaotic fiber lay in the paper is that it randomizes the intercepted frequencies, and thusly information they contain.

There's nothing however stopping it from saturating and transmitting or reflecting as it's clearly a high impedance type shield so it's of limited use in itself and is probably better intended for a layered type shield to put its' scattering ability to work in minimizing reflections, so it's not that the paper is useless but the misuse of it might not have the expected effect.

Charge potential on it building up or modulated by noise of any source isn't prevented from coupling electrically, via static capacitive charge displacement means and it'll do it uncontrolled via the paper isolator and height/distance relation to the conductive areas of the various onboard components and planes.


The best use of it would be to use some conductive foil tape to direct the current flow inherent to these charges and direct them away into a low Z groundplane, closest to and directly at the ground connections of the PCI in order to avoid loops of any great area which could even transmit across the ground plane.

Best would be extending the foil shield fully and have it bonded at multiple points clear across the area of the soundcard, perhaps even wtih bypass caps from it to the ground plane near sources of interest.

That extent is however all an excerise in diminished returns because if you use a conventional soundcard for instance noise conducted from the power and ground rails are virtually what the card uses almost directly and typically only ever with marginal onboard regulation and sparse filtration so the noise is going to drive a transport through the frontdoor while you're worrying about the crickets entering the rear windows.

You'd probably see a truer improvement by locating the DSP chip power source and getting a 100uF or 220uF small form factor electrolytic to sit stably directly across it and use low components that wont' greatly respond to the constant mecanical vibration inside a case or also be excited mecanically by poorly regulated, noisy rails

.
Edited by rollemup - 4/24/10 at 6:09am
post #910 of 979
Quote:
Originally Posted by linkin93 View Post
Can i do this on my lowly X-Fi Xtreme Audio PCI-E? Here's a picture of the card if it helps:

[IMG][/IMG]

Apparently my card is a "software" x-fi, is this true? By the way guys i am an audiophile-in-training. hence the soundcard over onboard in the first place lol.
I have one too, they are alright. I like mine because its twice as powerful as my onboard. I only bought this card because the onboard broke on a previous MOBO. These cards are on the CARDS THAT SHOULD BE AVOIDED list so I wouldnt expect too much can be done for them.
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