Yeh, wasn't trying to berate you personally, as you know, but it's something I've seen so often. Don't get them on ebay either, get them from digikey or something. Better luck with proper suppliers.
Going overboard on the solder is pretty common and no big deal to fix up either. Some rosin (flux) loaded solder braid can remove it and clean it up at the same time. Additional flux is a big help though as it is multi purpose. Heat transfer, deoxydizing. helps the solder flow to where you want it and helps keep it off where you don't..
Additional solder just to get flux will likely give you too much like you say.... but you can always try for a "Vertical drag" technique.. look that up, it's cool. Can make a mess though. Might also look up a few SMT soldering tutorials so you'll see a few techniques in action.
Really, it looks like there's enough solder already and if you had a bit of flux on it it would flow out properly just by touching the tip of the iron on it.
Sometimes you get into tight spots and it's almost impossible not to burn a cap. Trust me, you're not the first. It is unsightly and makes it harder to brag later but that's about it. All I'm saying is to make sure the damage is cosmetic, mostly to reassure yourself.. I'm already certain it's not a problem. One audio "Tweak" btw, is to actually cut the jacket right off. I'm not recommending or advocating anybody does that, but people actually do it.
See the problem with a mod like this is that you likely started out with a stock, very crappy op amp.... JRC was it? That is the case then. That means low gain-bandwidth, that means it's less susceptible to piss poor bypassing, which is also the case.
So you take that and slap in a better op amp like the LM here that has a much higher gain-bandwidth product. That means nasties can sneak in and F with the control and stability of it, it may oscillate and run hot, yet sound sort of OK enough for most not to notice), but within reason, it will just sound like pure **** compared to how it could.
A bad analogy might be shoehorning in a race engine into a car was designed to run with a sewing machine engine. Step on the gas one time and it might rip itself apart, or if you actually get it up to speed you'll run it right off the road the first time you try cornering.. slam on the breaks and they'll just burn out... it's a "system".
A higher gain-bandwidth op amp means you need better wideband low Z bypass and decoupling networks closer to the pin, preferably right at the pin. If you have lengths of trace before the bypass cap from the pin, then it is inductance that presents high impedance at higher frequencies.
Long story short it's going to sound way better if you can pull off any type of half decent network at all right at the pin. The highest quality parts are manditory, but choose wisely and they can also cost amongst the lowest. That's why I stress to avoid the "audiophile" crap, and look for audio grade.
I'll just do you a massive favor and tell you to get silmic RFS by Elna. There is nothing better or even close to it..... and this is not "subjective", this is LAW, I **** you not. They're dirt cheap for what they are, and you can get them at digikey when you order your flux pen
You'll need the braid to clean out the holes as well. Look for "soder" braid, with rosin, 1/8" wide works OK.
Then look for a quality film cap to bypass directly across the rails... what type... I dont' give all my secrets away
You'll be quite impressed with the silmic alone but it's a little closed off making you want to lean in and a bit euphonic. That's where you'll start to really hear the music though, and feel it. Try that and you'll see how bad we're always being ripped off by these cheap electronics that would rather use a 2 cent cap than a 2 dollar cap, then come back here and rip them a new one for it.
True quality audio parts that do work and are well priced like silmics are rare and if we dont' support them they'll fall out of existence. Already they see no market in larger power supply sized caps for this reason, and it is an immeasurable loss on our part.
If you're in the audio business like creative, then you should be using the parts that get the job done right and not those that maximise profit margins, you dirty bastards.
Swapping different caps, types, values, and physical sizes, can change the sound character/response just like an EQ. So if you think you prefer heavy bass, it is easy to screw it up by arranging it bass heavy, but then you'll get a bass heavy recording one day and it will just sound stupid, or sound effects that sound "in place" and realistic with a little "tick tick tick" sound, like something small dropping on the floor, end up sounding like BOOM BOOM BOOM" and it's hard to see that as realistic.
What you actually have to do is train your hearing and develop critical listening habits. This takes years and will drive you mental. What you want from it though is a proper flat, even-handed response, for all types of music. Then you can EQ it later as required, but truth be told I never use or need one. It would just screw with my "norm" and my trained ear anyway.
Right now in those 10uF jamicons you have a cap that sounds fairly flat in response but really offers no deep bass, if anything it's just bright. If you move up to 22uF, you get some improved bass extension, and probably less highs, it's all relative and is like tiping the balance on a scale. If you make that a 22uF silmic, it will be absolutely insane bass, and easily quite lobsided. You fix that with additional decoupling and/or bypassing, that tips the scale the other way again, but there's also complex interractions between all the bypssing components.. and they can each be extremely audible when done improperly.
A 10uF silmic will get you more bass already but stay a little more even... if it's starting to sound like a lot of retarded work then I've given you the correct impression. Companies could do this over time and product revisions, but you'll find their design choices always revolve around maximizing profit margins, and sound quality be damned.
PS: What silmic RFS will give you that no other cap can, is natural pitch. You'll start to be able to tell the difference between a sax and a flute for example, as they'll be realistic, more than ever before.Edited by rollemup - 10/31/10 at 2:43pm