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NEW Case and WC setup HELP!

post #1 of 36
Thread Starter 
Just bought a whole NEW wc setup for the new case, what do you guys think my temps will be I am upgrading from 3/8 tubing and 120mm rad which gives me IDle 29 load 40@ 3.2 E6600?

ALL NEW STUFF in the mail:
1.)TT Armor black casehttp://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811133154

2.)Apogee GT w 1/2 inch DD Hiflow barbs(bought barbs already have GT)http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835108093

3.)MCR320 w/radbox and 3x120mm Thermaltake fans@80CFMhttp://www.petrastechshop.com/swmcqposerab1.html

4.)10ft 7/16 ID tubing Masterkleerhttp://www.petrastechshop.com/7id5odmagepu.html

5.)Mcres Micro w/ 1/2 inch DD Hi Flowhttp://www.petrastechshop.com/swmchire.html

6.)1/2 inch MCP350 w/Petra tophttp://www.petrastechshop.com/peddcudeddcp.html

7.)Pentosin UV bluehttp://www.petrastechshop.com/peg11coadb4o.html

8.)UV blue smartcoilshttp://www.petrastechshop.com/40swsm625f5o.html

9)Hiper Type R 580W UV blue modular PSUhttp://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817128001

Any Ideas for placing radiator(have radbox remember), and the res?
The Warrior
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The Warrior
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post #2 of 36
Nice setup.

You could place the rad pretty much anywhere, that case is huge.

I guess the front would be a good place to put it if you want to go internal.
Otherwise, hook it at the back or at the top like Apollo does with his 480GTX.
post #3 of 36
Thread Starter 
I was seriously contemplating the top mounting, I think it looks extremely slick, but my question is don't I have to drill holes? I don't currently have a drill here, but I think my old man might...

What is the tool that everyone uses for cutting holes/drilling holes in their cases? Like if I wanted to put a Danger Den fillport in the top of my case, what tool would I use?
The Warrior
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The Warrior
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post #4 of 36
I think if I remember right the fil-port uses a 7/8" hole...It may be 3/4" just measure it...For little holes like that I use a hole-saw and a drill...You can get the hole-saw and a mandrel for it for under $20 bux...Make sure you get a bi-metal one for metal not the ones for wood...If your case is thin aluminum you might get a hole through it with a wood one....
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post #5 of 36
dremel.
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post #6 of 36
i agree...a Dremel tool is the best for this kind of work.
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post #7 of 36
dremel for the win, and me I have the same case and a similarly sized radiator, I'm mounting it into the front drive bays of my PC, the fit is tight, but it averts case modding...which i like...
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post #8 of 36
I see you bought 7/16 inch tubing for 1/2 inch fittings. Is it common to do this? I always figured you're supposed to buy 1/2 inch ID tubing for 1/2 inch fittings.

(I'm new)
post #9 of 36
Thread Starter 
Ira, where could I find this hole saw, and does anyone have a link to the cheapest possible dremel for this kind of work???

And Ecko, yes it is most common to use 1/2 ID tubing, however I wanna make sure I have no leaks, and I don't like the look of 1/2 inch tubing because it looks really bulky, and takes up room. So what a lot of people do is buy 7/6 ID 5/8 OD and slide it over 1/2 inch OD barbs....

I am not sure exactly what it requires, but I heard a blowdryer, and or a glass of hot water is used on the ends to soften them up...

Is this unnecessary? can anybody verify?
The Warrior
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The Warrior
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post #10 of 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by TuxeyM View Post
Ira, where could I find this hole saw, and does anyone have a link to the cheapest possible dremel for this kind of work???

And Ecko, yes it is most common to use 1/2 ID tubing, however I wanna make sure I have no leaks, and I don't like the look of 1/2 inch tubing because it looks really bulky, and takes up room. So what a lot of people do is buy 7/6 ID 5/8 OD and slide it over 1/2 inch OD barbs....

I am not sure exactly what it requires, but I heard a blowdryer, and or a glass of hot water is used on the ends to soften them up...

Is this unnecessary? can anybody verify?
Depends on the barbs that are you using.

I find that the getting the tubing over the barbs on the MCR320, DTek Fuzion, the DD High Flow's on my pump are very easy.
In fact I can pull the tubing off the barbs on my rad very easily, which is why I have zip ties there to hold it in place.

But putting tubing on the Stinger V8, on the old barbs on my pump, and on plastic (T, Y) fittings is very difficult.
And that is when I use the 'hot water' method. Even then, it sometimes get's very frustrating to put on. (Like right now )

Edit: Voila! And my barb is still boiling hot. *Ouch, it burns!*
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