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NEW Case and WC setup HELP! - Page 2

post #11 of 36
Thread Starter 
Well lucky me, cuz I ordered nothing but Danger Den Hi flow fittings for everything rad and block and pump...

How long do you keep the tubing in the water???
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post #12 of 36
Umm, 15-20 seconds?

I already had a bit of the tubing on the barb so that I didn't have to fit the tubing on the barb while it was soft.
I did that once and it was a bit difficult since it was so soft.
post #13 of 36
dremel is my best friend.
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post #14 of 36
I use a little glycerin and water to get 7/16 Masterkleer to slide on plastic fittings...And on metal barbs I soak the end in a little rubbing alcohol...The only trick to it is when it starts going on don't stop pushing....If you stop pushing before its all the way on its hard to ever get it moving again...At least on the plastic ones the metal aren't to bad...
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post #15 of 36
On the metal ones, if it gets stuck half way I just put the whole thing in hot water, so that the barb stays a bit hot.
Just don't forget to take off the O-Ring first.
post #16 of 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by NEvolution View Post
On the metal ones, if it gets stuck half way I just put the whole thing in hot water, so that the barb stays a bit hot.
Just don't forget to take off the O-Ring first.
Next time try soaking the end in rubbing alcohol for a few...It will trip you out how easy it will slide on...The alcohol doesn't seem to hurt it any I've been doing it for a long time like that...fstfrddy's barbs are over-size those are hard to get it on I don't care what you do...
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post #17 of 36
Thread Starter 
Wait, so it is actually difficult? I thought everyone was over exaggerating...

I got 1/2 Hi flow metal Danger Deng barbs for everything except the res which was plastic ones...

If I do the heat up method, won't it leave a gap and have it leak?


How exactly do you do the alchohol/glycerin method???
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post #18 of 36
Why would it leave a gap if you heat it up?
All it does is make the tubing soft.
And it 'shrinks' to the barb as if you put heat shrink on it.

I'm guessing with the alcohol/glycerin method, it acts as a lubricant and makes it much easier for it to slide over the barb.
I'll have to try that method next time.
post #19 of 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by TuxeyM View Post
Wait, so it is actually difficult? I thought everyone was over exaggerating...

I got 1/2 Hi flow metal Danger Deng barbs for everything except the res which was plastic ones...

If I do the heat up method, won't it leave a gap and have it leak?


How exactly do you do the alchohol/glycerin method???

No, heating up the tubing will just expand it for a few seconds then it will start contracting again, so it will tighten around the barbs when it cools down, seal it with some claps after that. Just incase.

Soak the tip, about 3-4cms of the tubing your putting on the barb in alchohol/glycerin, basicly making it slippery, then just force that suxer i there.

EDIT: oops too late NEvoloution!!
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post #20 of 36
You just use alcohol for the metal barbs..Just soak a inch or two of the tubing in the alcohol for 20 or 30 seconds...And for plastic barbs just put a little glycerin on the barb and inside the tubing, wet it with a little distilled first and it will be more slippery....

Its really not hard after you do it a couple of times...Just don't stop pushing once it starts going on...
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