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FuZion vs GTX

post #1 of 10
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I look around the web but can't find any definitive winner.

Please correct me if I'm wrong but in looking at Swiftech's site the GTX is only marginally better than the GT.

There was a list of tests of the FuZion and GT to be found at xtremesystems but they seem inconclusive other than perhaps the FuZion may have an edge in a meta-analysis sort of way.

Given the lack of specific tests of the GTX but assuming the GTX isn't significantly different than the GT, would it be safe to say the FuZion might be a better product or are the results really that inconclusive?
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post #2 of 10
Fuzion is the current winner by a few degrees I believe.
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post #3 of 10
I think the Fuzion is the best of the newer WB's...The GTX is anodized aluminum and if it gets even a little scratch on it your going to get galvanic corrosion and ruin your other blocks...The GT blocks you have to bow the base with an O-Ring to get them to work while the Fuzion works well right out of the box....
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post #4 of 10
Only thing I could find, had the same question a while back...

http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/hardw...e-vanilla.html

I ended up going with the fuzion mainly because of the GTX aluminum top which could as mentioned become a problem if scratched an now you have aluminum in your loop with the possibility of galvanic corrosion to occur.
    
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post #5 of 10
I've picked up a fuzion block, I'm waiting on the rest of the rig to arrive
    
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post #6 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by IanY View Post
Oh.. the color on the inside top of the Swiftech GTX is going to fade and there'll be some black dye coming off. Not to worry. Its perfectly normal. No, the top of the Apogee GTX is not made of delrin, but those who are scared of any use of aluminum are foolish because the plating is of considerable quality. Don't even think of painting anything on the inside of the block. You will wreck the highest performing water block in the market.
Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh View Post
pictures paint 1000 words iany:







If these bother you, get a soft toothbrush, and scrub the dye off b4 you drop it into the loop. that silver underside is nickle plate.

And you guys should really listen to iany. He and nikhsub are probably the only people i can think of on this forum whose had the block b4 i did. I was part of the review that went on this forum.

But YES it does come off, that was done on dual DDC-2. I have a RD-30 now, and i scrubed the dye off, with a soft toothbrush. And it comes out very easily with warm water.

Swiftech APOGEE GTX aluminium plating "sucks" ????
****


Definitivly D-Tek FuZion
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post #7 of 10
He said that's nickel plated, so you should be just fine, but the paint coming off isn't good. . . who wants all that junk in their loop?
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post #8 of 10
wow thats bad!
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post #9 of 10
Yeah it is...I think Swifty has really messed up with the new Apogee's...The old Apogee was a great block even if it was a C or two hotter...The new one's you have to bow the base with an O-Ring to get them to work right and once they are bowed you cant go back they will stay bowed...I guess they just shaved off the base as much as they could with-out reinforcing it any...
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post #10 of 10
From what I've read about the GTX ... the only real difference between it and the GT is the top, which is designed to put the inlet and outlet barbs slightly further apart so that there is more residence time for the water on the block itself. Aside from that, the bottom pin-grid is identical to the GT.
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