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E4300 & DS3 Rev3.3 Overclock - Page 2

post #11 of 32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shajbot View Post
Reseat the heatsink. You can't possibly jump ~40C in heat like that, I mean it's not possible. The old Prescott chip (oc'ed from 3Ghz to 4Ghz) I had only jumps from 50C to 75C.
Very true, I have been following the E4300 IHS removal post, and I think I am going to try that tonight when i get home
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post #12 of 32
OK I would lap it first, you cant hurt it by lapping it but you can by removing the ihs so I would do that first and reseat your heatsinc. Give that a try then try removing the IHS, least drastic first
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post #13 of 32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MADMAX22 View Post
OK I would lap it first, you cant hurt it by lapping it but you can by removing the ihs so I would do that first and reseat your heatsinc. Give that a try then try removing the IHS, least drastic first

Good deal, do you know a place i can buy a good lapping kit?
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post #14 of 32
interesting stuff going on there. you should at least be able to get 400FSB on full multiplier. getting 390 and having to do it down a notch isn't right.

regarding TAT...if i'm reading it right you idle in the 40's...yet as soon as you start the 100% loading in it the temp reported is in the 70's? (that's if i'm reading the timer it shows in the TAT outputs you posted).
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post #15 of 32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by technik View Post
interesting stuff going on there. you should at least be able to get 400FSB on full multiplier. getting 390 and having to do it down a notch isn't right.

regarding TAT...if i'm reading it right you idle in the 40's...yet as soon as you start the 100% loading in it the temp reported is in the 70's? (that's if i'm reading the timer it shows in the TAT outputs you posted).
Yea... more like 80-82c full load, It doesn't make sence at all to me, I know that idleing in the 44-46c range is ok given the Vcore, and FSB, but it doesnt make sence that it would jump 40c at full load.... when i get home today, I will remove the HSF, use some alcohol swabs and reapply some AS5 and reseat the CPU/HSF. In the end, If I can't lower the temps, I will just go with a modest O/C of 333x9, and see what I can do about the temps.... Irreguardless, I cannot pass orthos with any O/C.

Can anyone give me a soid setting that has worked for them using the DS3? I.E. MCH/FSB/CPU Voltage settings. I already have all of the unneeded features disabled in bios, and my PCI-E locked at 100

Also, you state I should be able to hit 400 FSB with a full multiplier LOL, yea that would be 3600MHz, that is nearly impossible on an allendale without using Watercooling or Phase. I was just shocked that I made it into windows @ 3.2GHz and was able to do everything, just not Orthos stable
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post #16 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by Avacado View Post
Good deal, do you know a place i can buy a good lapping kit?
Yes go to auto zone if they have one in your town and if not a similer hardware/auto parts store. They should have some sand paper for metal or cars it should be a wet or dry sand paper and be relatively smooth and is usually black, this stuff works great and they usually carry from like 400 to 2000 or 2200 grit which works great.
Then you jsut need an old mirror or a piece of glass thats flat, I usually used my old roommates coffee table that had glass insets. Probably about $10 for the whole ordeal
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post #17 of 32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MADMAX22 View Post
Yes go to auto zone if they have one in your town and if not a similer hardware/auto parts store. They should have some sand paper for metal or cars it should be a wet or dry sand paper and be relatively smooth and is usually black, this stuff works great and they usually carry from like 400 to 2000 or 2200 grit which works great.
Then you jsut need an old mirror or a piece of glass thats flat, I usually used my old roommates coffee table that had glass insets. Probably about $10 for the whole ordeal

Cool, thx, now about how long on each piece of paper? I have heard around 5 min on each rotating 90 degrees halfway through.
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Sky
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post #18 of 32
Well just use some common sense really, I start with about 800 myself and use that to get to all copper on top, that will get you to the copper and get you flat. When you do it youll know what I mean, once I get it flat ill move up to 1000 and do that until I get rid of everything thats still in 800 grit depth. Basically ill get it to where 1000 grit is making the biggest scratches then ill move up to 1500 till I get it nice and smooth with that.

I usually stop at 1500 because thats all I need to get really good temps on phase/air/water. Take a piece of screen or graph paper and hold it up to the cpu and make sure that the reflection on the cpu doesnt distort anything, it should all look nice straight, it doesnt have to be a mirror polish to do this.

The main thing is getting it flat, everything else is just personal, just use the graph paper or a fine print document or something that will show distortion in your lapping job.
Good luck and take pics so we can see how concave it was
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post #19 of 32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MADMAX22 View Post
Well just use some common sense really, I start with about 800 myself and use that to get to all copper on top, that will get you to the copper and get you flat. When you do it youll know what I mean, once I get it flat ill move up to 1000 and do that until I get rid of everything thats still in 800 grit depth. Basically ill get it to where 1000 grit is making the biggest scratches then ill move up to 1500 till I get it nice and smooth with that.

I usually stop at 1500 because thats all I need to get really good temps on phase/air/water. Take a piece of screen or graph paper and hold it up to the cpu and make sure that the reflection on the cpu doesnt distort anything, it should all look nice straight, it doesnt have to be a mirror polish to do this.

The main thing is getting it flat, everything else is just personal, just use the graph paper or a fine print document or something that will show distortion in your lapping job.
Good luck and take pics so we can see how concave it was
Great thx, one last thing, how am I supposed to grip the CPU? I dont want to bend anything, what is the best method to hold it? Should i use a piece of styrofoam and push the cpu into it, and use that as a block?
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Sky
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post #20 of 32
Well the 4300 doesn't have any pins, so I would tape the sandpaper to the glass or whatever then if you still have it the little plastic backing plate that came with the cpu put that on the cpu and go to town, thats what I do, If not a piece of foam or something, whatever just to protect the little resisters or whatever on the back, ive done it without anything before just gotta be careful
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