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post #11 of 19
Thread Starter 
Aye Aye
    
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post #12 of 19
mate i will find you a good deal on a rad gimme a sec...

I got a XSPC R-120T (360mm) for £23 delivered (was £58) but unfortuantely they are all out of stock now

EDIT: here is a good deal on a rad:

http://www.ebuyer.com/UK/product/108871

add something else to make the price above £30 and you will get £10 off by google checkout (only about 4 days left so hurry!)

P.S. thanks for the compliments Ira .. lol
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post #13 of 19
For a
Cpu block: D-tek Fuzion
Gpu block: EK 8800GTX full block
Res: Swiftech micro res
Pump: Liang d-5 swiftech version
Rad:Black Ice GT Stealth III 360mm
Fans:
Coolant: Fluid xp extreme +
Swiftech rad box

You are looking at £240 before fans and delivery
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post #14 of 19
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Asce View Post
For a
Cpu block: D-tek Fuzion
Gpu block: EK 8800GTX full block
Res: Swiftech micro res
Pump: Liang d-5 swiftech version
Rad:Black Ice GT Stealth III 360mm
Fans:
Coolant: Fluid xp extreme +
Swiftech rad box

You are looking at £240 before fans and delivery
See, its things like this that make me wonder if it would be easier to get it from america and have it shipped over
    
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post #15 of 19
Yep, we pay way too much
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post #16 of 19
Thread Starter 
The only problem with that would be customs
    
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post #17 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Asce View Post
For a
Cpu block: D-tek Fuzion
Gpu block: EK 8800GTX full block
Res: Swiftech micro res
Pump: Liang d-5 swiftech version
Rad:Black Ice GT Stealth III 360mm
Fans:
Coolant: Fluid xp extreme +
Swiftech rad box

You are looking at £240 before fans and delivery
Dump the Fluid XP and you can can £25 from the cost.
Once again...
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Once again...
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post #18 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nostrano View Post
The only problem with that would be customs
mate did you have a look at that rad? what you think?

If i was you i would check out the trade section on here.. i manged to get an apogee and an MCW-60 for £30

and also you should check ebay...

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/thermochill-pa...QQcmdZViewItem
SWiFT
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SWiFT
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post #19 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nostrano View Post
So after finding out that i loaded at 70C i decided that the only option i had was to go water cooling, however i am very new to this and after reading some threads i have put together a loop and ...I have put together i flow diagram for my computer please will you comment and maybe even improve on it...As you can see I have a drain line on it, what would be the best way to plug this when not needed.

Thanks in advance,

Nostrano
For your rad, look around and just look at the specs (KCal per hour. BTU per hour, Wh) and compare. Sometimes a small rad works just as well as a big one. If a Rad doesn’t list the specs, it's a pretty good guess there not very good. Try to steer clear of aluminum, corrodes & gums up your system..

For fans, assuming your talking a 120 based rad, I'd go for the highest cfm your budget allows (Silverstone has some $11 odd bucks (US) 110 cfm fans if your on a budget, (realize you across the pond, probably find the same type of deal over there)) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835220015 Other reputable brands are Delta, Panaflo, summon,etc.. Also, use a shroud with your fans, makes for more efficient cooling.

If the noise bothers you, put a speed controller on it. Sunbeam makes a no-frills, 4 channel controller, at an impressive 20 watt per channel (easily will drive whatever you throw at it). And it can easily handle more than one fan per channel , just add up the wattage of the fans http://www.svc.com/bus-55-sl-24.html

Debatable Issues: Your loop shows the CPU & GPU block in a line, personally, I like to branch them off, I.E run them in parallel. That way, you’re not pumping heated water from your hot CPU block into the GPU block. There is an issue here with the drop off in pressure to the blocks by splitting them. This can be mitigated by your pump and the size of you fitting on the GPU, (some bright young thing could figure it out for you, they did it for me, just phrase you post right).

Fans are considered by many to be most effective when pulling the air as opposed to pushing it through the rad. There’s arguments on both sides, but pulling makes most sense to most people (including yours truly}. For me, having a ton of surplus, hi cfm fans, I’m push & pulling, that is a fan on either side of the rad. As best I can tell there’s a few degrees to be to be gained and in my case, nothing to lose.

In your diagram you show what appears to be a big rad hanging of the bac. Be sure to allow pleny of room between the case and rad to alow for good airflow.

Can you tell I’m avoiding real work?

Good Luck

Croak

P.S. Never heard of a drain line. If I were you I'd "t" off before the pump and run a line out the top of the case (helps with bleeding) and cap any which way. D.Ded has filler port, but you don't really need one. To drain, Just pull down said hoss and drain away. Since its open end will normally be +-above everything else, pluging water tight (if at all) won't be an issue.
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