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Koolance 8800GTX MOD cooler

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 
I noticed I'm not the only one who owns a koolance VID-282. We are not that satisfied with or temps......Upon looking at my cooler I noticed very little flow rate through the card and a idle temp of 40C somtimes 41C with ambiant at 24C........ Had we read the spec data pressure drop Vs. flow rate we would have known that. The flow rate of the koolance is very close to all of the other full card coolers; Koolance, DangerDen etc......

This mod is good for shaving a few C off your temps and takes about 35 min.
Also good to have a looksy inside for debris.

What you will need metric Alan wrech #2, 2-DangerDen new style g1/4 7/16"ID 1/2" OD barbs or sim.
grinder or belt sander, dremel with conical grindin stone...

WEAR SAFTY GEAR!!!!!!!! saftey glasses, gloves ,clothing and shoes....
In a safe environment
Try not to hurt your self..

So here we go!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Drain your fluid, unhook your tubing and remove the GTX. Don't remove the cooler, drain any internal coolant, blot barbs with paper towel, open that puppy up

Hard to see but both the plugs and the thread of the barbs intrude 1/16" inside of the flow cavity
Next take out the koolance barbs....The so called high flow koolance barbs are just shy of 3/8" ID.......these are to be replaced by the new style danger den 1/2" high flow barbs after some modificaton

Now we need to shorten the thread length so they don't intrude into the water cavity....this can be done with a belt sander or a grinder...I used a belt sander upside down. Screw the barb in carefully to check. Sand some more if needed...remember you don't want it to intrude itno the water cavity

Next I took a dremel with a conical griding stone and beveled the inside edges.... use this first one as a guide for the second....In the picture below you can see the modded barb on the left and factory on the right

Next we need to sand down the plugs roughly 1/16"....screw the plug in and check for a flush fit, if not sand some more.

Next clean all the mod parts with 10% distilled whited vinager an 90% distilled water then rinse with distilled water. clean any visable gunk from inside the flow cavity with clean paper towel or Qtips.
Put your card back together and tighten the screw in a crossing pattern.

Enjoy, drive safe
    
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post #2 of 7
Thread Starter 
skippidie do bop bop
    
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post #3 of 7
Yeah that should help flow some...
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post #4 of 7
my friend... very good tip...although when i test fitted my barbs when i first installed my setup...i did notice what you were talking about and i took my trusty dremel tool and cut off the excess threading you mentioned. but this will help those who didnt notice it.
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post #5 of 7
not bad... but i'd just buy a better cooler...not that i don't enjoy modification...
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post #6 of 7
Thread Starter 
I have a mcw60r with ram sinks and mosfet sinks on the way from sidewinder
I had one but I gave it to my best friend to cool his card so I had to buy a new one...

I should have read up on the koolance before I bought it....I was looking at the WC edition of the bfgtech. I can do it cheeper I said, so all I looked for was a cooler sim to the bfg and DangerDen was out so I bought this one without every reading up on it. Come to find out all coolers sim to the bfg had the same crapy flow...

I should have stuck with what I had the 60....

I wrote this mod thread for the peeps that can't go out and buy some new stuff right now but wish they had better cooling....

Now I have a cooler for a paper wait
    
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post #7 of 7
Good tip , this same mod would apply to any barbs that extend into something and have excess like this. Reservoirs are notorious for having barbs stick way into the body of fluid and the friction that occurs to enter a pipe that protudes is several times more than one that is cut flush...take that a step further and bevel it and you've cut it down even more.

This is why you see alot of box culverts across highways with beveled headwalls...much more efficient!
    
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