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post #37871 of 39931
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron_Henderson View Post

If you use heavy enough steel, it wouldn't be needed at all. Look at how a truck frame is built...same basic principle. I am sure you don't worry a truck is going to bend in half, and neither would my design, as long as you use proper thickness on the steel and have it welded up tight. With less material, sure, additional bracing would be needed, but that's beside's the fact...my design is meant to eliminate the need for bracing. If made right, the studs in the wall would have more give than the bracket...

You have design it correctly and use some engineering principals like he said in the post below..
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chickenman View Post


I wasn't trying to be disparaging regarding your design at all, just mentioned it because you can achieve the same strength with lighter materials with a bit of refinement which is usually the goal of anyone wanting to create something for market or aesthetics.

You can't argue that no matter how thick you make the steel, how robust the mounting points, that a simple brute force design wouldn't be improved with the addition of some thoughtful engineering.

Truck chassis is a bad comparison as the steel is suspended between two (or more) points with no real overhang intended to bear weight.
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post #37872 of 39931
You guys are way overthinking and over complicating something that is simple and has been done a million times before...I gave my advice, advice used to mount much heavier things than a computer desk...if you want this to turn into a engineering competition, go for it, but it's a desk guys...a desk that might see 250 lbs of weight in the absolute worst case scenario...I don't care what the outcome is, or how it looks, I just gave advice I know would work and be easy to hide the mounting bracket. Dude can do whatever he wants with the build.
post #37873 of 39931
Building the desk part is the simple part, even 2x4s can hold a computer without supports. It's getting a solid connection to the wall studs that will make or break the project.
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post #37874 of 39931
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron_Henderson View Post

You guys are way overthinking and over complicating something that is simple and has been done a million times before...I gave my advice, advice used to mount much heavier things than a computer desk...if you want this to turn into a engineering competition, go for it, but it's a desk guys...a desk that might see 250 lbs of weight in the absolute worst case scenario...I don't care what the outcome is, or how it looks, I just gave advice I know would work and be easy to hide the mounting bracket. Dude can do whatever he wants with the build.

Then build it and let us know the results
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post #37875 of 39931
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blze001 View Post

Building the desk part is the simple part, even 2x4s can hold a computer without supports. It's getting a solid connection to the wall studs that will make or break the project.

Too right, which is precisely why weight, force distribution and careful design are important - there are limiting factors that must be worked around. Can't just bolt a huge structure to most residential properties walls.

Also need to think about the depth of the desk because the deeper the desk the more load tolerance required in worst case scenarios like:
The desk smashing through your forehead when you trip on a headphone lead.
Pet monkey swinging.
Random drunk girls dancing on it. (Lol, almost forgot this was OCN)
Your mother's baking.
Emergency motorcycle repairs.

Having to carry your lifeless body as well as an assortment of pencils and peripherals is going to be a huge ask if you have taken shortcuts.
Edited by Chickenman - 10/22/15 at 6:33pm
post #37876 of 39931
I like mobility and change from time to time... mounting a desk to the wall just for the "oh look my desk is floating" impression is just mehhhh. But whatever floats your boat.
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post #37877 of 39931
Thanks a lot for your immense cooperation regarding this, everyone. Much appreciated.

Here's a side view of what I'm planning on doing.



20 gauge iron sheets bent at right angles will be attached to the wall with the help of rows (2/3 per row) and columns (2/3 per column) of screws (or sth better, if you can suggest sth like that). The wooden desk and shelf will be attached with screws (or, again, sth better depending on your suggestions) to the part of the bent sheet protruding towards the opposite of the wall.

As for your suggestions,

i) Idk what braces are. Images would help.
ii) The desk will have a hole towards the rear end for cable management. Besides, most of my cables will remain above desk level, since my case will reside at/above desk level.
iii) As for Aaron's design, I don't think I can implement metal bars since the protruding metal sheet will remain in between the main wooden sheet of the desk the two sheets will be attached to each other via screws.

Also, how long do the nails/screws need to be in order to securely attach the metal sheet to the wall?

And not to seem too obvious, but in case it matters or makes a difference, the wall I'm going to attach it to is made of brick and cement.

Thanks again for all your help. Let me know your opinion/recommendation if you have one.
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post #37878 of 39931
Quote:
Originally Posted by ahnafakeef View Post

Thanks a lot for your immense cooperation regarding this, everyone. Much appreciated.

Here's a side view of what I'm planning on doing.



20 gauge iron sheets bent at right angles will be attached to the wall with the help of rows (2/3 per row) and columns (2/3 per column) of screws (or sth better, if you can suggest sth like that). The wooden desk and shelf will be attached with screws (or, again, sth better depending on your suggestions) to the part of the bent sheet protruding towards the opposite of the wall.

As for your suggestions,

i) Idk what braces are. Images would help.
ii) The desk will have a hole towards the rear end for cable management. Besides, most of my cables will remain above desk level, since my case will reside at/above desk level.
iii) As for Aaron's design, I don't think I can implement metal bars since the protruding metal sheet will remain in between the main wooden sheet of the desk the two sheets will be attached to each other via screws.

Also, how long do the nails/screws need to be in order to securely attach the metal sheet to the wall?

And not to seem too obvious, but in case it matters or makes a difference, the wall I'm going to attach it to is made of brick and cement.

Thanks again for all your help. Let me know your opinion/recommendation if you have one.

I hope you're not serious... that's only .04 thick at a right angle.
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post #37879 of 39931
I would be more worried about the studs... You could get thick enough steel to hold up a right angle but keeping all that weight from pulling the studs out of the wall or eventual sag seems like a stretch.
2.3mm would be strong enough but without more surface area to disperse the load on the wall.... Id think you would want the wall portion at least a foot or two long so you could have multiple mounts into the stud and to disperse the weight. Id want the desk portion to be a foot or two long too to absorb any accident downforce on the edge of the desk, 3 feet of leverage on the end of the desk when you prob your feet up on it forgetting its wall mounted is a lot of leverage if that is a short piece. The longer is is the more strength of that steel that is going to absorb that before it effects your weak point which is the right angle.

TL, DR Those angle braces should be at least 2.3mm and 1ft in length or greater for multiple anchor points and for more rigidity and to absorb load better.
Edited by DunePilot - 10/23/15 at 10:22am
post #37880 of 39931
Studs don't matter if it is a brick wall.
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