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Mach II GT Phase Unit install guide

post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 
Ok I am going to try and cover everything necessary to install a Mach II GT phase install. It is rather a very simple process once you get the hang of it but since alot of people ask how to do I decided to make this guide. Now I want to say that I am not responsible for your damaged goods due to following this guide and I must add that I have used this setup on over 10 motherboards without any issues at all.

First off when you get one of these units it comes with rather simple instructions that will do you fine for the install.

You need to take the back plate and put the heater element in it. This is very important as it keeps condensation from forming on the back of your motherboard at humidity up to 90% ambient. With a good seal you wont get any condensation at all.

Ok now a couple of tools that I allways use, the allen wrench for the two mounting hex head bolts, a mutli tool (for whatever comes up) and a magnetic screwdriver (best thing known to man for computer maintenance).

Now take the backplate which is the all aluminum part and put the heater element which has a sticky back on to it. Make sure that you have the wire mounted in the direction you want it to come out from behind the mobo as once you put it on its pretty permanent. I have mine mounted so it comes out the bottom of the mobo as it has to be plugged into your phase unit to work.



With this setup you use whats called seal string. It is a black plumbers putty looking stuff that makes a great seal. However for it to work properly the surfaces must be free of oils or other contaminants. I like the thick stuff you get from crazypc over the stock stuff which is much thinner and sometimes requires you to double it up to get a good seal. careful this stuff is sticky.



Place a single strand around the backplate and the front plate to make a good seal to your mobo. You have to keep it inside of the screws that hold the two together. This forms your airtight barrier. Kind of press it on with your fingers and you can form it a little. Make sure your hands are clean as you dont want to many oils getting on it and ruining its sealing ability. Make sure that the wires from the heater element get a top and bottom layer. This makes sure that no air will get in by the wires which is bad.

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post #2 of 11
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Now for the cpu area. With this setup you may not need to use dielectric grease but I highly recommend it. If say by chance you fry your mobo you may still be able to save your cpu. Also you dont want the contacts on the cpu or mobo corroding since they are very small and will get messed up very quickly.

This is the stuff I use purchased at your local auto zone (for teh Americans), Any dielectric/contact grease will work. People have also used vaseline which works pretty good also (never tried it) but since you dont do the mounting very often usually I choose to go with the trusted proven stuff.



One thing I do to the socket with the lga 775 is to cut the little clip that presses down the cpu retention bracket so that if I just want to change out the cpu I can pull the evap head, pop out the metal insert and remove the cpu. With this socket if you dont do this its pretty much impossible to get the cpu otu without removing the front and backplat.

Now I take the dielectric grease and put all over the socket area to make sure that no condensation can get to the vital areas. Any extra will be oozed out when you tighten down the cpu.



Then install the cpu in its place. Allthough not necessary I lap my cpu's even with phase. With my E4300 I got a -15c cpu temp improvement by lapping the cpu (it was really concave).



Once you got that done you want to install the front and back plate and screw it together. Make sure you line up the holes before you press it on because the seal string sticks pretty good and is hard to repostion. Once lined up press them together really good and take the four screws and tighten them down evenly. I tighten them down good and tight (not to damage the mobo). You will feel them getting really tight and the seal string bulges out the sides. This is where you need to make a inspection of the sealing areas between the front/back plates and the mobo. It should have no gaps and look similer to this.




There is a option here as far as install goes. Some people like to fill the area around the cpu with grease or other insulating material. With this unit you shouldnt have to as the heaters in the head and back should prevent condensation. I never fill it in and have not gotten condensation at all even over 6 months of operating. You also run the risk of getting something between the top plate and the evap head which could prevent a good seal.
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post #3 of 11
Thread Starter 
Ok for getting the cpu ready I am trying a mix of as5 and some ceramique stuff. Be careful here, straight as5 cant handle the low temps of a phase change system. DO NOT USE cheap ceramique stuff either since it is made of water based stuff and if you dont let it dry out first its just like adding water to your setup that your trying to make water proof. It isnt enough to cause any shorts or anything more then likely but I know from experience that it will quickly corrode your evap head and cpu ihs. Not enough to eat thru it in a couple months but nonetheless it is bad. I smear a nice relatively thin layer on mine. Do the cpu and the evap head, you want to make sure you get good contact. Now there is alot of debate on what is better but I usualy use more then you would in air cooling or water. Its not going to hurt anything and making sure you get good contact is very important even if you have to use a little too much.




Now for the evap head. Make sure its nice and clean, mines a little rough because its a couple years old and has been on countless setups with the stock mounting system and modded mounting systems so she's a little worn around the edges.



Apply the seal string around the edge of the evap head assembly. Make sure its on nice and good.



Ok now even up your evap head and press it on, I usually do a dry run with out seal string to make sure you get a good contact (very important for your first setup). If you dont mount it right you can fry your cpu thinkning its getting really cold. Phase change needs to be seated properly if it isnt you can easily overheat your cpu. Phase's ability to cool the cpu drops dramatically when there is not a good contact between the evap head and cpu.
Once you get it on tighten down the two bolts evenly as possible. This ensures a nice flat contact and a decent even spreading of the thermal paste. Once agian look to make sure the seal string oozes out of the sides all the way around as you tighten it down. When compressed this stuff makes a perfect seal if youve got it on there correctly.



Finally allmost done, last most important thing is you gotta seal up the holes from your two mounting bolts. Take some seal string and make a little ball and press it into the two holes. Use a little force and make sure its in there good. You dont really have to use as much as I did but I dont care too much about the looks really.



I didnt take pics of the wires but its pretty easy. Plug the heater wire into the heater wire coming out of the phase unit. There is a usb that plugs into your mobo for teh nventiv programs for running your phase (not necessary but nice) which allow you to control fan speeds and change what is read out on your display. Plug the molex connector from the phase into your PSU. There are two wires that you plug your power switch into and two more that replace the power switch that plug into the mobo. This is what keeps your mobo from runnign without the phase and also controls when your mobo starts and stops according to phase temp (like it wont start before it reaches -33c on mine)
Now you are ready to freeze it with some amount of safety for your equipment. Remember that you dont have the cpu fan blowing on stuff so you may need a extra fan here and there to help cool different things on your mobo.

I am sure I forgot some stuff so feel free to make some suggestions.
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post #4 of 11
mach 2 gillette?
post #5 of 11
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Unstableiser View Post
mach 2 gillette?
Better
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post #6 of 11
Can't wait
post #7 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by Unstableiser View Post
mach 2 gillette?
Phase silly.
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Once again...
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post #8 of 11
Thread Starter 
All done, I apologize for the grammer errors that I made. I dont have firefox installed and am not very good with that kind of stuff so be gentle.
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post #9 of 11
Very informative!
post #10 of 11
Thread Starter 
Thanks, I wish I had a better camera for doing close up stuff. Oh well.
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