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post #11 of 110
That looks really nice! Great job. Gotta love the paper towel method of leak testing, it never fails.
    
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post #12 of 110
Just a thought... Something I just noticed about the swiftech FC GPU blocks.

They don't cover the components near the power connectors. The stock heatsink does as well as the D-Tek I bought. You might consider buying two more packs of the ones you put on your Motherboard's VRMs. Have a look below.

The D-Tek comes in contact with those 12 small VRM looking chips at that end:




post #13 of 110
Thread Starter 
Thats what the Mosfets were for, but the thermal tape was crap. It did not attach to the power chips...
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post #14 of 110
My bad. I thought you meant the tape that came with the large GPU cooler I didn't see the small guys in any of the pics. I appologize, I just misunderstood. Looks awesome btw!
post #15 of 110
Very nice rig...Glad to see you take the time to leak test your components..Don't forget to leak test your unions again when its all in your rig....Thanks for all the pic's...
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post #16 of 110
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Thanks for the +rep Ira-k.

I just received the Thermochill PA120.3 and shroud...with the RAD+Shroud+Fans it would measure around 6 inches tall...at my desk space, there is no room.


I overlooked this part...which option 3 or 4?
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post #17 of 110
Quote:
Originally Posted by nitteo View Post
Thanks for the +rep Ira-k.

I just received the Thermochill PA120.3 and shroud...with the RAD+Shroud+Fans it would measure around 6 inches tall...at my desk space, there is no room.


I overlooked this part...which option 3 or 4?
I would go with Option 3 ... best chance for fresh air to get in and out of the rad.
Option 4 would eventually build up a heated area behind your tower because of the semi-enclosed area on 3 sides of the rad and fans.

Apollo4g may have some information for you on how you could mount your rad on the rear corner of your case so you can avoid cutting more holes in your case.
post #18 of 110
Nice work!
The only thing I might suggest and I might not be seeing this right, is to make your T lines such that your water flows through the straight portion and the fill part is the 90 degree bends. You won't get much friction loss on a T fitting if your flow is just passing through straight, but if it's bending 90 it will be much more.

And as far as the thermaltape, I had the same problem with my thermal tape that came from Thermalright. I ended up using Artic Adhesive, that epoxy stuff which is permanent. That stuff works great, but there's no going back after they are glued on which could be a problem if you needed warranty work.
    
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post #19 of 110
Option 1 would mean the rad is the highest part in the loop so unless ur rad has a screw off top (on the top of it) air bubbles will get trapped here making it a real swine to bleed.

Ive just installed my rad on the side panel, your option 2 only sligtly different... check my log to see.

Hope I helped :-)
    
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post #20 of 110
Damn, that's a sweet system. I really like the 8800Ultra coolers. Are you going to get ride of them, if so, I would love to take them off your hands. Also, I would recommend running the radiator at the highest point in the loop. Lastly, I would try and avoid 45 degree or 90 turns by using plastic fittings. This restricts the flow of the water, and makes your pump work harder. If you could get two water blocks that you can connect, so the water goes directly from Ultra 1 to Ultra 2 that would help your loop out.

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