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post #121 of 128
Hey litlratt

I work with those fittings and more all day long so if you can give me a good description of what you are after it wont take long to find something suitable.

Just make sure if you do go compression fittings make sure they are not plastic, I have had a lot of problems with them. (leaks, cracks and stripped threads)
If you are going down that path go with quality don't skimp.

I will get around to uploading some pic's of my rig later today. Will PM you when I have.
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post #122 of 128
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by charger265 View Post
Hey litlratt

I work with those fittings and more all day long so if you can give me a good description of what you are after it wont take long to find something suitable.

Just make sure if you do go compression fittings make sure they are not plastic, I have had a lot of problems with them. (leaks, cracks and stripped threads)
If you are going down that path go with quality don't skimp.

I will get around to uploading some pic's of my rig later today. Will PM you when I have.
The only thing I know about the compressions is that they are very clean looking, however I believe they have a reduced id.
Your rig looks good and sounds as if it performs even better. Those temps are outstanding
I plan on reseating the cpu today and maybe do a few more benchies. I gained 10,000 points total in the Marks yesterday and gained a few spots
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post #123 of 128
Yea I saw that "10,000" Nice just out of the top 3

With the reduced ID on the fittings you can generally drill them out to reduce the wall thickness as you are not putting a lot of stress on the parts or you just go the next size up and squeeze the hose over it, that way its less work and you get a better seal. Only thing is if you don't have quality hose it will stretch and break after a very short period of time.

What thread type and size are you screwing into and what size ID tubing are you using?

If you give me that I will post some links with either copper or stainless steel fittings. coper is about 30% cheaper than S/S in fittings.

I am running a push pull system on most of the rads. with out the push pull the delta goes up to 7-9c.
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post #124 of 128
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by charger265 View Post
Yea I saw that "10,000" Nice just out of the top 3

With the reduced ID on the fittings you can generally drill them out to reduce the wall thickness as you are not putting a lot of stress on the parts or you just go the next size up and squeeze the hose over it, that way its less work and you get a better seal. Only thing is if you don't have quality hose it will stretch and break after a very short period of time.

What thread type and size are you screwing into and what size ID tubing are you using?

If you give me that I will post some links with either copper or stainless steel fittings. coper is about 30% cheaper than S/S in fittings.

I am running a push pull system on most of the rads. with out the push pull the delta goes up to 7-9c.
1/4 threads, 1/2 id 3/4 od on the tubing.
Reseated the cpu and am still idling at 10 over ambient
Mounted 3 TT Thunderblades for a push pull on the cpu/nb loop. Amounted to a 1 degree difference. That suggests to me that the rad is doing it's job as is.
I never did lap the Fuzion as a straight edge showed it to be true and surface had close to a mirror finish. The next time I have it apart I'll lap it anyway.
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post #125 of 128
10 over ambient is a little high. I run at 5-7c idle.
You have great flow, a huge rad and a good block????
Have you lapped your cpu? that could be the problem...

I have found some very good quality plastic fittings. They will do the job but you will have to use a thread sealant.
http://www.swagelok.com/search/produ...A4-4-FTF-1-8-3
Here is the main page http://www.swagelok.com/search/find_...0002126/type-1
I have use this type of fitting on one job before and the lines were pressurized to 2 bar and they leaked on the male thread so use sealant.
If you want to go with metal fittings you will have to change tubing. It is a lot harder, is not 100% clear and if you have a tight bend it will put a lot of stress on the blocks\\PC parts

I also had a look at Festo fittings but they don't have the size you are after. They only do 1/4 to 8mm max.I don't think you will want to drill and tap out all your parts to 3/8.

I am sure there are other alternatives out there I just haven't used any of them.

Hope this helps
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post #126 of 128
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by charger265 View Post
10 over ambient is a little high. I run at 5-7c idle.
You have great flow, a huge rad and a good block????
Have you lapped your cpu? that could be the problem...

Hope this helps
Laing D5, Swiftek MCR320 and a Fuzion. Only time that I could see the flow was when I was bleeding it and it appeared to be doing well.
I lapped the cpu but probably need to lap the Fuzion.
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post #127 of 128
Try some 120x38mm fans on your rad...They have a higher air pressure and I find they cool better on rads...I use 108cfm Sunon and 115cfm Panaflo on mine 4 matched pairs from front to back...A shroud will help also if you can get one on it...



...108cfm Sunon

...115cfm Panaflo

These are quieter if noise bothers you...

...Panaflo 86.5CFM

...Sunon 84CFM
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post #128 of 128
Thread Starter 
The Loons on the pull side are 70 cfm and the Thunderblades that I put on the push were 78(no appreciable diff in temps).
I really need to check the water temps first. This will tell me where to look next. High temps=radiator, low temps=block.
Personally I think it's the mount, the last time I took it off it appeared as though all the AS5 had been squeezed from the center of the hs. Is it possible to have the block on too tight?
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