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COMING SOON!! Waterkeg III SLI (Bandwidth Challenged Beware) - Page 3

post #21 of 128
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Fedex is now saying a Tuesday delivery.
In the meantime, since I decided to stack the twins, I had to come up with a shelf tall enough that I would be able to direct the exhaust from the bottom keg to the front. This will keep the top one from pulling the warmer air in from the rear.

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post #22 of 128
Yeah thats a good idea you want the coolest air you can get going through your rads, it all adds up...
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post #23 of 128
Thread Starter 
New window for the case. Won't be needing 3 intake fans, though I might eventually opt for 1 or 2 to get some air on the mb.



Now for the noobiness. From what I can tell, the water lines are added to the blocks after they have been installed. If a guy had enough room in the back of his case to cut a slot rather than drill holes, would it be easier to attach the lines to the cpu and nb blocks, run them through the back and then attach to the mb? It will be close, but it looks like there might be enough room to get the video cards through there also.
Be advised, I've got noobiness I ain't even used yet.
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post #24 of 128
I put my tubing on the blocks before I mount them, its a lot easier that way and you can make sure they are on good...I just use a piece of heavy twine to measure my tubing lengths with and cut them a little over-long mount them to the block and then run the loose end wherever it goes...

EDIT: Isn't that some of the Petco mylar tubing sleeving you have on the pvc legs?
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post #25 of 128
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ira-k View Post
I put my tubing on the blocks before I mount them, its a lot easier that way and you can make sure they are on good...I just use a piece of heavy twine to measure my tubing lengths with and cut them a little over-long mount them to the block and then run the loose end wherever it goes...

EDIT: Isn't that some of the Petco mylar tubing sleeving you have on the pvc legs?
It's ChromeXC found here
http://cableorganizer.com/chrome-mylar/#C
I'm going to do the water lines with it too. I've never seen anyone else use it and I wanted to do something a little different. Plus, I'll have shiny pretties
The loose end going to the res looks like it would be a snap, but the one going to the rad looks like it would be a pita.
What would be the longest total length you would recommend for the D5 pumps?
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post #26 of 128
Yeah that might look pretty sharp...You wont be able to see bubbles in your tubing with it sleeved so be sure to tap around on your lines and tilt your case some to make sure you get them all out...


The tubing length you shouldn't have any thing to worry about...Just keep them as short as you comfortably can...I have my 480GTX sitting about 2' away from my comp now and I saw very little pressure drop from the extra 4' of tubing..But less is always better...


Did I ever give you my component cleaning guide? I'll leave one for you it has some other stuff in it to that you might like to see...
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post #27 of 128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ira-k View Post

Did I ever give you my component cleaning guide? I'll leave one for you it has some other stuff in it to that you might like to see...
Yes, I got it from another thread. I have a question regarding replacing the o-rings with rtv sealant. Is there any reason not to use both? Kind of like additional insurance.
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post #28 of 128
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The solid case window idea is definitely not going to work as the cpu temps went up 10 degrees and the psu fan kicked into high gear within minutes. Strangely, the mb temp only increased by 1 degree.
It doesn't appear that I'll have enough room to direct a couple of fans over the bottom portion of the mb as the part of the loop connecting the vid cards will stick out too far. I'll probably mount them on both sides of that piece or externally.
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post #29 of 128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Litlratt View Post
Yes, I got it from another thread. I have a question regarding replacing the o-rings with rtv sealant. Is there any reason not to use both? Kind of like additional insurance.


It would kind of defeat the purpose...A real O-Ring fitting will have a recess for the O-Ring in it so that you can fully tighten the barb into it with-out the O-Ring deforming and popping off..I take them off so that I can fully tighten the barb down so there is no danger of the O-Ring popping off and causing a leak...The way most WC'ing parts are if you tighten it down to much the O-Ring deforms and pops off and leaks or just leaks...If you do go ahead and use them with O-Rings don't over-tighten them thats the trick when you use them..
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post #30 of 128
Thread Starter 
They're heeeeerrrrrrre!!



Lot of work(play) to do.



No time to get started today. In the morning after work.
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