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post #11 of 29
Looks good, although i persionly would not put it in my system as it has de-ionized water. I have herd that de-ionized water can corrode copper heatsinks over time as copper has a very loose hold on its electrons and the water wants to gain electrons from somewhere. On the other side its not going to conduct if it leaks. Ive been useing distilled water and antifreez (AKA Zerex) and it works just fine.
    
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post #12 of 29
But would deionized water actually remain deionized after you put anything in it?
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post #13 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by hell_hunter View Post
Looks good, although i persionly would not put it in my system as it has de-ionized water. I have herd that de-ionized water can corrode copper heatsinks over time as copper has a very loose hold on its electrons and the water wants to gain electrons from somewhere. On the other side its not going to conduct if it leaks. Ive been useing distilled water and antifreez (AKA Zerex) and it works just fine.
Of course you would use deionized water or distilled water in all cases. It helps to ensure purity. All water will eventually pick up ions from the metal. This does not damage the metal since electons flow easily in metal.


Quote:
Originally Posted by TsunoTakishi View Post
But would deionized water actually remain deionized after you put anything in it?
Nope, it becomes conductive over time. Use deionized or distilled water for the reason of purity. No minerals or additional chemicals.
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post #14 of 29
I use straight distilled water and change it every 6 months or so. I no longer recommend the use of regular antifreez as an additive. Myself and others have found that it can react with some vinyl tubing and actually seems to dissolve it over time creating this stringy goo in your system. I have gotten one of my blocks back that had the jets just about plugged with the gunk. Either use a commercial PC coolant/additive or go with straight distilled.
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post #15 of 29
Yeah, like several have said, it's not as good as water. The main things to look at for a coolant are the specific heat and viscosity.

The specific heat for that coolant is .92 cal/g C and water is 1.0, so it will only remove heat about 90% as well as water which is not good.

The other thing is viscosity, that engine ice has a viscosity of about .7cp and water is 1.0, so it is going to flow a little better than water that's good for reducing friction and increasing flow rate.

The other thing not noted is any chemicals that reduce surface tension, there is usually some small benefit to a soap or something that reduces surface tension. I know Ira-K mixes a couple of drops of detergent in his own mixture, it's probably worth some improvement.

But generally most automotive coolants are formulated specifically for the need to raise the boiling point and lower the freezing point, for pc cooling we better not have the boiling point problem..

The more I mess around with coolant the more I'm tempted to go with Ira-Ks mixture, pure distilled with some PT-nuke for biocide and a little glycerine and a couple drops of soap. Maybe I'll pick up some color primochill tubing next time around and forget about the UV dye.
    
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post #16 of 29
zyrex + PT nuke + distilled water FTW!
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post #17 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by DuckieHo View Post
I don't see anything special about it. Besides, it is just deionized water with Propylene Glycol. PC cooling would use more water for better performance since it doesn't have to worry about temperature ranges or corrosion.
uh... corrosion is a real issue with water cooled setups...
and... your temp variations may not be as extreme as in a car... but there is still a temperature range...

Anti-freeze doesn't just prevent water from freezing...

i use 50/50 pre-mixed DexCool...
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post #18 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by LiNERROR View Post
uh... corrosion is a real issue with water cooled setups...
and... your temp variations may not be as extreme as in a car... but there is still a temperature range...

Anti-freeze doesn't just prevent water from freezing...

i use 50/50 pre-mixed DexCool...

Copper does not corrode much (if at all, for our intent and purposes) in a plastic + brass + copper mix.

Water temperature variation in a good loop is less than 10C.
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post #19 of 29
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post #20 of 29
Heh, well I think the best stuff is ThermalTake's green liquid stuff. It is sooo sweet, It gives your copper waterblocks this nice coating of green stuff that is impossible to get off, thats how you can tell its working.

jk jk, I like to use Koolances water, seems to do the trick just fine without the thermaltake build up
    
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