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Guide: Antec 900 Cable Mod Pictorial

post #1 of 165
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Hi guys

As You know I am infatuated with the 900 and have developed this easy cable mod I want to lay out as a guide.

This way anyone with the tools can mod their 900 in a short period of time to improve the aesthetic and airflow.

I have a couple of extra lil deals I do that are optional. I will add that at the end.

This Mod can be adapted to various sizes of PSU or a "universal" Mod can be done to ensure the case will fit any size PSU...another option.

Many PSUs have a top mounted fan--flipping the PSU over to make the cables closer to the mobo will block the fan. If you are modding the case for such a PSU then you will also need to make a hole in the bottom of the case to accomodate the size fan of your PSU--or you can "universal " mod it to fit any size fan as I will show.

Obviously you should put taller feet if you port the bottom of the case to allow some flow...another option.

























This is to demonstrate how to pass the 24 pin plug through an 1 1/4" hole


Strip the case before laying it over.


Protect the panel and other parts and set aside.


The patient is ready doctor.




PSUs come in all shapes and sizes regarding length. The PCP&C 750 is about 2 inches longer thean the TT...but no fan...


The metal hold down tab WILL scratch the PSU--protect it with tape.




This demonstrated what happens with a PSU that has a fan--even a nice modular PSU looks like crap becasue the cable snakes across the open space...the solution is to flip it over.But before we do that you need to derived some take offs to center the hole for the hole you will be making in the bottom of the case...




Using the square corner of piece of a box I have made the needed marks on the blue tape and may now remove the PSU and put it aside in a safe place away from metal chips.

More in a bit....
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post #2 of 165
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Bring your mark down to the case floor with a square and over with a square--do the same to transfer the marks for the front of the PSU. Square off the rear of the case and side of the case to make your center point. X marks the spot. Now you can go build a boat-as you now know all about lofting from this point on.













At this point you can turn the case upside down on a piece of padding and work the bottom with anything you got...


A 5 Inch holesaw will work--but it better be sharp--this one has duller teeth than an old Rotweiler that's been chewing rocks.



Yep after a few moments I could tell this was going nowhere..time to invest in some elctrician's knockout tools.



That aint no Dremel...but a rotary tool will git'r dun--and iff'n you are planning on removing the stick-on rubber feet anyway a jigsaw is the prolly the best; I just felt like throwing sparks tonight...



That aint no dremel neither bu it will deburr that 5" hole in a minute flat.

At this point you need to sclean the case and put down some tape and see where the cables exit from the PSU now that you have flipped it. Most cables exit in the middle on the edge--make marks on the tape to indicate where to drill a 1 1/4" hole for them to pass through the panel.





Here is where you need to us a backing board to avoid bending the chassis unless you have the luxury of electricians knock-out tools or a really big Step Bit. Not too many cordless drills will do this--but my trusty Panasonic is up to the task--amazingly this particular holesaw is still sharp!



Trim back the rubber feet from the edge of the hole 3/16" to allow the rubber c channel to seat properly--if you ahve not already removed the feet.



When you get to the part where you snip the c channel molding ou best leave about 1/8" moe than you think you need and push the channel up into itself a bit and sprig load the molding to keep it snug, The beauty of a cirlce is that it is self-ending and the molding has no where to go...At this point I like to check the length of the PSU motherboard cables to make sure they will reach their plugs on the rout along the back of the panel. Then I remove the PSU and put it oput of harms way.



Make another 1 1/4" hole for the cabling to come out--although you make think it would be more tidy to try and have them come out under the mobo this is a no no--keep the hole to the side of the line made if you were to draw a line from stand off to stand off top to bottom--this will ensure enough room for the unsheathed par of the cable to make a sharp bend and leave room for molex to the ODDs.Obviously you should locate the hole dead center of the 24 Pin on the side of most LGA mobos...I do this with a trashed mobo.



You cannot beat a step bill for making clean holes in a chassis--regualr drills bend and twist the metal. If yyou plan on doing any amount of modding that involves holes of different sizes in the chassis--a step frill is a good investment.



I use grommets and make holes just large enough to pass the cables through.



The side panel slides right over this mess and no one will ever see it unless you want them too...


The TT is very similar in design to most 140mm Fan Modular PSUs
I found the Xclio to be the same. But make sure to suit your PSU.













And there you have it.

If you want to make the front panel cables reach the furthest gormmet You need to lengthen them...the USB and Fire Wire are plenty long.

Maybe after the Antec reps read this thread we will see a revision 3...with the modular psu mod and cable mod...lol.

Hope this helps those Antec 900 owners out there.

But obviously this same approach will work on any case with some space between the side panel and chassis.

CyberD
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post #3 of 165
mmmmm.... power tools....

That sir, is a nice and clean set of mods. Well done!

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post #4 of 165
wow...what can i say

i like the rubber to smooth out the hole...i always cut myself in the crappy holes i drill in my case.
    
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post #5 of 165
wow great guide... could definitely be applied to other cases as well... if i had the tools i would do this mod myself. although it is quite simple the results are pretty amazing
post #6 of 165


...

go on and TAKE IT, sir!!

...

(always working ... that's a good thing!)

    
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post #7 of 165
Only a CD thread can be so informative, yet so entertaining at the same time. I love this quote. Stay away grammar police.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CyberDruid View Post
That aint no Dremel...but a rotary tool will git'r dun--and iff you are planning on removing the stick-on rubber feet anyway a jigsaw is the probablt the best,,I just felt like throwing sparks tonight...
LOL, you are awesome CyberDruid!
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post #8 of 165
Thread Starter 
Thank you--I gotta lern me sum typology one of these days.

EDIT: Got's her all fixed up I reckon...changed me them words up in that there part I writ what you wrote back there a piece and got'r dun buddy...
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post #9 of 165
great mod and guide, i just ordered my antec 900 and i think i'll be doing that before i put it all together

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post #10 of 165
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Definitely changes the case. I would reccommend taking the top panel off as no doubt metal will end up in that cavity otherwise...and it helps you set it upside down...
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