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Clamps - Page 3

post #21 of 105
I seriously think zip ties should be removed from any guide here, they just can't provide the right amount of clamping force without pulling it hard enough to break something.

I've an acrylic case and I just use plastic reusable clamps (blue UV), they look very clean in my opinion. Using pliers you can clamp them down extremely tight with very little effort, no chance of leaks.
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post #22 of 105
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by da9pwnsu View Post
i use danger den clamps and worm drive clamps
Danger Den clamps eh? I'll look into that

rep +

ps, worm drives are not my boat on the looks..
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post #23 of 105
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Znth View Post
I seriously think zip ties should be removed from any guide here, they just can't provide the right amount of clamping force without pulling it hard enough to break something.

I've an acrylic case and I just use plastic reusable clamps (blue UV), they look very clean in my opinion. Using pliers you can clamp them down extremely tight with very little effort, no chance of leaks.
fstfrddy's method may be suitable..

rep +
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post #24 of 105
Quote:
Originally Posted by Znth View Post
I seriously think zip ties should be removed from any guide here, they just can't provide the right amount of clamping force without pulling it hard enough to break something.

I've an acrylic case and I just use plastic reusable clamps (blue UV), they look very clean in my opinion. Using pliers you can clamp them down extremely tight with very little effort, no chance of leaks.
I disagree, I and many others have been using zip-ties for a long time. I have never had a leak under normal operating conditions.
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post #25 of 105
i disagree as well, i have zip ties over 50% of my fittings, and they work just fine!
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post #26 of 105
I totally agree with Fstfrddy. I have been using zip ties for 2yrs with zero leaks. Using wormdrives
have failed due to over tightening and cost me over $600 in fried hardware. Two firmly tightened
zips per barb have yet to cause failure.

Once I pull the zip snug by hand, I firmly hold a flat blade screwdriver against the locking square and,
while holding standard pliers vertically, firmly grip the tie-end flush with the square and turn the pilers,
re-grip and turn again until the tie breaks. And I always install tubing and ties prior to mounting the block.
  
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post #27 of 105
D3DAIM.... why not use Zip Ties and the cover them with normal heatshrink if you worry about aesthetics? You can use any color shrink to match your case.
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post #28 of 105
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dryadsoul View Post
I totally agree with Fstfrddy. I have been using zip ties for 2yrs with zero leaks. Using wormdrives
have failed due to over tightening and cost me over $600 in fried hardware. Two firmly tightened
zips per barb have yet to cause failure.

Once I pull the zip snug by hand, I firmly hold a flat blade screwdriver against the locking square and,
while holding standard pliers vertically, firmly grip the tie-end flush with the square and turn the pilers,
re-grip and turn again until the tie breaks. And I always install tubing and ties prior to mounting the block.
I shall do it this way, thanks.
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post #29 of 105
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DuckieHo View Post
D3DAIM.... why not use Zip Ties and the cover them with normal heatshrink if you worry about aesthetics? You can use any color shrink to match your case.
No no, zip ties look fine. I have a bunch of these green ones.
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post #30 of 105
Quote:
Originally Posted by D3DAiM View Post
I shall do it this way, thanks.
No problemo, if you need visuals, I can get someone to shoot a video while I perform the described process.
In fact I should do that anyway for those who need to know!
  
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