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possible for a dremel?

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 
so i noticed when people use a dremel to cut their case, it leaves a rough, sharp edge where they cut. i dont have a jigsaw and so i was wondering if it'd be possible to roughly cut a case just before the actual cut lines and then to grind the remaining area to leave it somewhat smooth..better looking so to speak.

heres a crappy diagram that hopefully makes sense..
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post #2 of 12
Definitely. But you need the grinding bits and a really steady hand. You'd be better off taking some sandpaper to it.
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post #3 of 12
Yes.

I have done this many times on several types of materials.

If I may be so bold to make a suggestion...

Tape off ALL areas. The safest way is tape the entire piece (both sides) with blue painters tape and mark your cuts on the tape. Two layers of tape is an added precaution that I take sometimes (if the work is going to be particularly tricky).

You will need the appropriate grinding wheels and/or drums to trim and de-burr.

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post #4 of 12
I agree with the sandpaper. Just get some REALLY coarse paper, 60 grit preferably, and make sure there are no burrs of the metal sticking out and sand the hell out of it. Smoothing it out via dremel is a long process and if you mess up, you risk messing it all up.
post #5 of 12
If you use sandpaper, take care when sanding particularly jagged areas. The burrs will cut tight through the paper and into your hand or finger(s).

Although sandpaper will do the jog, the Dremel will make the job easier and cleaner in the long run.

As Fkyx stated, you will need a steady hand, or you will end up with "waves" along the sanded edge. For the most part it won't matter as long as you are using a rubber seal.
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post #6 of 12
Thread Starter 
@Syrillian: ill probably get the dremel kit from home depot or something. would the supplied grinders, wheels etc work with it?

@Fkyx and twisted: you guys are saying that using this method is pretty risky? lets say my hand slips or something, will it be that big of a mess up?
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post #7 of 12
Well, Syll is saying that it's not THAT big of a deal and he probably has more experience using a dremel than I do, so listen to him. I prefer sanding the roughness out but if you have grinding wheel, use that.
post #8 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by coldchillen View Post
@Fkyx and twisted: you guys are saying that using this method is pretty risky? lets say my hand slips or something, will it be that big of a mess up?
I don't believe it'll be a big mess. But if your hand isn't steady, you won't necessarily have a perfectly straight edge. I don't know much about making windows in cases, so I didn't know about the rubber sealing that Syrillian mentioned.

Syrillian's point about the burrs and cutting through the sand paper is a good one as well. I hadn't thought about that.
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post #9 of 12
Thread Starter 
sweet.. ill try both methods. thanks guys

by the way, if the edges are ''wavey,'' the rubber seals will also be wavey right? im thinking the edges, if they are wavey, it wouldnt make that much of a difference, right?
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post #10 of 12
These are the parts you can use. The top two are not really necessary unless you have particularly large burrs or jagged edges.



How were you planning to cut the case... as in what bit or tool were going to use. If it is the Dremel, a reinforced cutting wheel will do, but you may need 6-10 of them... no worries, they are pretty inexpensive.

Sorry, but I must say it: Please wear eye protection at the very least. IMHO I would wear long sleeves and gloves as well as some kind of breathing filter (t-shirt is great). The process creates a lot of fine metallic dust and shrapnel-like discharges...

Wavyness.... if the undulation is minor, it will not show. That is the nice thing about the self-locking gasket that comes with most (if not all) kits, it is designed to hide minor flaws.
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