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post #11 of 22
i was a professional painter for 2yrs, my advise would be this-

1- sand to bare metal, all the way down, use a 120grit for this, but be careful not to get into the metal to much


2- use a degreaser of sorts to clean the bare metal, alcohol will work, just got to make sure to get rid of any oils i.e. from your sweaty hands!

3- shoot a coat of primer, let dry, sand with a high grit, like 400, shoot another coat of primer, sand smooth again with 400 or higher, when your spraying your primer make sure to NEVER start or stop your spray when your over the case, start spraying beside it, then make your pass over it, but dont stop spraying until your all the way past and off of it, also, when you are making your passes overlap your previous pas by 50%, this will help ensure an even coat, i would suggest at least 2 coats of primer

4- now your ready to shoot your color, spray it the EXACT same way you sprayed the primer, after your first coat dries, very lightly sand the case with a very high grit, 800 minimal, you will want to spray at least 2 coats of color, but in reality you can put as many as you desire

i prefer using an orbital sander, or DA, just make sure you dont ever hold the paper in your hand and sand it, it will leave finger grooves, and never touch the paint with anything to see if its dry, give it plenty of time

if you have any questions feel free to ask, im glad to help!

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Merged the two posts [Use edit feature in the future please] Spooked
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also, something that can give pretty cool effects to your paint, after you have your final coat on, when its roughly 50% dry, lay a piece of thin plastic, like saran wrap, trash bag, use your imagination, anyway, when 50% dry, lay your whatever on the paint, dont pat it down or anything, let it touch as much of the surface as possible by falling naturally, then immediately lift it back off, it will give you a pretty cool looking rock-like texture to your paint, it will take a few tries to master this technique, but once you get it down you will be impressing some friends for sure

note: this wont work with a rattle can probably as it would probably dry to fast
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post #12 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grim View Post
nicely said - and I agree.
I bet CD never learned that way (not to bash you or anything friend )

So what are you saying Ellipsis?
That you paint - let dry, and THEN.. said again?
He is talking about wet sanding which requires that you use water and soap while sanding. It makes for better sanding. It is all covered in my guide. So is pretty much everything else that has been recommended. All of which has been good advice.
    
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post #13 of 22
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by lobi View Post
Can you post a pic of the case? usually you start off with some 400, then work your way up to 1000 if you have the time and patience. Modding can be fast and dirty, or slow and purdy. Working on an old case is the best way to learn. I have a case right now that I got at the thrift store that I'm trying many things out on, to see how I like the ideas.
this is it but its all over my floor in peaces now i primed and sanded it from 600g to1300 didn't have 400 am always lapping
http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/4011/dsc01090qn7.jpg
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post #14 of 22
dont know if it was posted, but the higher grit paper you use, the better your quality will be, but most people wont notice a difference between 600grit and 1400grit
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post #15 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpookedJunglist View Post
He is talking about wet sanding which requires that you use water and soap while sanding. It makes for better sanding. It is all covered in my guide. So is pretty much everything else that has been recommended. All of which has been good advice.
Yeah - I know Spooked

I did my last try at case painting like that - and because I never got to get any paint, It RUSTED .

Turns out that the white undercolor that a lot of cases have.. is to protect it from rusting.
Without paint..... mine just rusted.

SO I'll have to take care of that - when I get paint.

Sorry to digress though - what I was really asking about was the whole "let dry" then sand again Proc.
But i gathered later down that was the 'Primer' ^_^
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post #16 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by namehater View Post
i was a professional painter for 2yrs, my advise would be this-

1- sand to bare metal, all the way down, use a 120grit for this, but be careful not to get into the metal to much
If I am taking a project all the way down to bare metal I prefer to just dive into it with a spray can of Klean Strip Aircraft Remover paint stripper. I have used many chemical paint strippers over the years but I find this one to be particularly easy to use. I buy it in a spray can for ease of application but it is also available by the quart. Walmart carries it in their Automotive section. If you can't find it in the Automotive section, check their regular Paint section.



I use Brake Parts Cleaner (Automotive) for final clean-up before applying primer. The Brake Parts Cleaner comes in an aerosol form. It removes grease, oils, etc. and is fast drying. I prefer it over Acetone and the like as I do not have to use a rag to apply it, thus negating the introduction of lint to the surface I am working on.

For those who have little to no painting experience:

Anyone that paints for a living will tell you that surface preparation is everything. If you want a superior paint job you need to spend the majority of your time prepping the surface.

A mistake that I see all to often is rushed paint jobs. One should always take their time when painting. Why bother at all if you are just going to rush it and have it come out looking like... you know what I'm getting at.

These are some of the rules that I follow for a quality paint job:
  • SAFETY FIRST! ALWAYS WEAR EYE PROTECTION AND A MASK OR RESPIRATOR WHILE SPRAYING!
  • Surface preparation is everything. Take your time.
  • Read & follow the instructions on the back of the can(s).
  • Paint should be applied under extremely good lighting conditions.
  • Paint should be applied in a dust free environment. If you can do so safely (non-slip flooring), lightly wetting the floor will help keep dust levels to a minimum.
  • One must take temperature and humidity into consideration. If it is too cold or particularly humid and you do not have a climate controlled work area it is simply not a good day to paint.
  • Paint should be applied evenly, sprayed from edge to edge (side to side), while holding the gun/can at a set distance from the surface.
  • Have a method to your madness. Start spraying just before the edge of a surface and do not let off the trigger/nozzle until just after you have left the opposite edge of the surface. Think of this as "laying down a coat of paint" rather than simply "spraying paint".
  • Paint should be applied in several "light" coats rather than one heavy coat. (By "light" I simply mean not too heavy. I do not mean so light that the paint looks cloudy or uneven.)
I think that about covers it.
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post #17 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpookedJunglist View Post
He is talking about wet sanding which requires that you use water and soap while sanding. *snip
Close, but I do not advocate the use of soap while wet sanding. As a matter of fact I have never heard of using soap during wet sanding. I wet sand strictly with water. Is this something you were taught or did you come up with it on your own? What purpose does the soap serve?
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post #18 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ellipsis View Post
Close, but I do not advocate the use of soap while wet sanding. As a matter of fact I have never heard of using soap during wet sanding. I wet sand strictly with water. Is this something you were taught or did you come up with it on your own? What purpose does the soap serve?
Slight lubrication and everyone does it. Just google wet sanding soap and see how many pages show up.

I personally learned it from a auto body class in high school.
    
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post #19 of 22
Good advice on this thread. Sand it with tough paper until it looks smooth (like 100 grit), then sand it with 400ish grit, then wipe clean with nail polish remover.

Then use some 1000+grit paper and sand. Clean again with acetone, and, right before you paint, use a tach cloth (found at an automotive store in the paint section for $2), and wipe it with the tach cloth. Then spray as mentioned above. You'll have one fine looking paint job. No need to get ALL the old paint off as long as it's smooth.
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post #20 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpookedJunglist View Post
Slight lubrication and everyone does it. Just google wet sanding soap and see how many pages show up.

I personally learned it from a auto body class in high school.
Well, isn't that just... slick.

I'll have to try that trick sometime.

Are there any specific precautions that should be taken before top coating when using this method, or is a good rinse with clear water all that is required to remove any trace of soap residue?

Thanks for the info.
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