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The Quest for the Perfect Waterblock - Page 9

post #81 of 95
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZOMG! WE'VE BEEN HAXORD! View Post
I like that idea but it seems like it has walls right over the hottest areas.

What about an "S" channel with 70-80 degree inlets on opposite ends of the channel and an outlet in the center?
its a pelt block. heat output should be the same everywhere.

and could you explain the 70-80 degree angle? why would it help? could you draw a pic?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dryadsoul View Post
Your drill press assumption couldn't be less accurate/farther from the truth.
The V8 "lacked" pins by intent of design, not lack of machine tools.

On my 18" quill DP w/calibrated tilt & lock base plate, 4" 90º adjustable vise, 8" cross slide vise, locking arbor
shaft and staggered side-tooth metal slitting saw, cutting diamond pins is a cake walk. Far more time
consuming due to set-up, manual repositioning and recalibration, but a done deal non the less.
surely it lacks them by design. its an effective design, but to me it seems like most of the flow is not being used. only the water that touches the bottom and walls actually takes away heat. pins increase surface area, though, as you said, they take way more time to make.
in the case of the V8 i would assume there are no pins to more easily produce the blocks, while temps wont be affected by more than a few C at max. it is a compromise, in my eyes, which is justified.
note that i respect the design and its maker, but its just that i wanted to find the best possible WB without compromises.

i have access to a drillpress too, and might try to make a block if the design is perfect at least on paper, and i decide to go with watercooling. (which depends on whether or not I will buy a quadcore later)
besides that im simply interested in the workings of a waterblock.
(and threads like these might be of use to other ppl as well)
post #82 of 95
70-80 degree angle as opposed to a 90 degree to increase the speed at which the coolant flows through the chanel. A 90 degree angle looses velocity when it hits the base.
post #83 of 95
Thread Starter 
thats why i already put them at a 0 degree angle. or do you think a 70-80 would be better?
maybe 20-30 would be, to jet some water over the bottom, creating more turbulence, but doesnt 70-80 still sacrifice more worth of flow than it gains in turbulence?
post #84 of 95
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZOMG! WE'VE BEEN HAXORD! View Post
70-80 degree angle as opposed to a 90 degree to increase the speed at which the coolant flows through the chanel. A 90 degree angle looses velocity when it hits the base.
You want the 90 degree angle so it hits the base. While there is a velocity loss, you get jet impingement. This design was pushed by Cathar... one of the top watercooling experts in the world.

http://www.employees.org/~slf/lrwb/

Swiftech bought his design for the Storm G4 Waterblock.

D-Tek now is producing his designs.

The Storm and FuZion were/are the best commercial blocks for their times.
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post #85 of 95
Thread Starter 
i know that its true for non-tec blocks, but does it apply to TEC-blocks too?
for one, a TEC-block has a much larger surface area that cant be covered by a jet completely, and is already much more restrictive than a normal block with the massive amount of pins/cups/whatevers. also, flow needs to be as fast as possible so the water doesnt get heated half-way, failing too properly cool the other half.
that's what i think anyway.
post #86 of 95
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChielScape View Post
seems there's been a lot of activity while i couldnt come along.
had a few probs yesterday that prevented me from posting what i promissed, but here it is.

note that the flow gets divided over the entire width before entering the actual cooling area, just like a radiator. ive though about splitting the 2 flows, and make them flow in opposite directions for more equal dissipation of heat, but i wonder whether it would make a difference.

this is meant as a pelt-block, BTW, but i think you already noticed.
if you look real closely you can see 2 rulers in the pic, which I used to determine the size of a 437W pelt.

i also get the feeling my drawings are slightly misunderstood. the pins are all the same height as the rest of the block, and should touch the top, forcing the water to flow trough them.
what are the pin dimensions on there?
post #87 of 95
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChielScape View Post
i know that its true for non-tec blocks, but does it apply to TEC-blocks too?
for one, a TEC-block has a much larger surface area that cant be covered by a jet completely, and is already much more restrictive than a normal block with the massive amount of pins/cups/whatevers. also, flow needs to be as fast as possible so the water doesnt get heated half-way, failing too properly cool the other half.
that's what i think anyway.
With a pelt block, the center of the pelt will still be under more load even with a cold block.

How about this design.... It is very similar to the D-Tek FuZion. However, instead of just a straight jet... It is a hollow cone. Some water still shoots down the middle of the cone. However, some of the water flows around the cone as well to hit the block at an angle.


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post #88 of 95
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZOMG! WE'VE BEEN HAXORD! View Post
what are the pin dimensions on there?
i think something in the range of 1x1 mm would be good. perhaps 1.5x1.5 if its a high block.

@Duckie: interesting design. would a G1/2 inlet and 4 G1/4 outlets sound good?
post #89 of 95
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChielScape View Post
i think something in the range of 1x1 mm would be good. perhaps 1.5x1.5 if its a high block.

@Duckie: interesting design. would a G1/2 inlet and 4 G1/4 outlets sound good?
No, the inlet would use a G 1/4", 1/2" OD fitting. This is the standard.

The outlets have to be optimized based on how much water is entering the bottom chamber. Remember this is based on the FuZion design with two chambers. The four holes lead to an upper chamber and out a single fitting.
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post #90 of 95
Thread Starter 
if this is so much like a fuzion, how would it be better?

and G1/2 barbs can be bought everywhere. they are standard too. maybe not in WC, but WC isnt the only thing that uses those sizes.
the advantage of the G1/2 over the G1/4, even if both have a 1/2OD barb, would be that the ID of the G1/2 part would be a lot wider. since we're talking about a pelt block here, and since even your own design has such a wide intake, wouldnt that be a GOOD thing?
also, it would allow for users to choose larger barbs, larger tubes, and a larger pump if he thinks its necessary.
with multiple outlet barbs, the loop could be split into 2 normal 1/2" ones and for example cool 2 graphics cards, after which both lines join again into a bigger one.
in other words: a larger inlet, and 2 normal outlets allow for more customization, but dont force it.

that, plus now you're going back to 90* outlets, which has been said to reduce flow.
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