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My Ported D5 Test Results - Page 2

post #11 of 25
Thread Starter 
Pump outlet is on the top barb.

Thanks, that's a good idea on the brass, that would leave you with a good platform to try some different stuff. I was also thinking if there was a way to tap in a barb that's at an angle that better matches the spinning water in the pump housing, you should gain some efficiency...just a little scary if I screw up!..lol Does anybody have a dead D5 pump that they want to sell me cheap?...I'm in need of an expendable top.hehe

As far as heat dump, I'm sure you'r right. I heard before on XS that alot of a pumps head dump is actually due to the impeller friction with water, some is obviously the pump motor, but friction loss is energy and that has to be turned into heat. How much?....I don't know, but I'm sure it's less...
    
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post #12 of 25
Yeah if you could straighten out the flow it would have to help...Its a shame that more cant be done with the impeller blades themselves, if you could bend them a little to get more bite it might help...They are like the ones on the DDC though all I could do with them was clean up the leading edges a little so they would slice into the water a little easier...


I'll keep my eyes open for a dead D-5 for you...
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post #13 of 25
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ira-k View Post
Yeah if you could straighten out the flow it would have to help...Its a shame that more cant be done with the impeller blades themselves, if you could bend them a little to get more bite it might help...They are like the ones on the DDC though all I could do with them was clean up the leading edges a little so they would slice into the water a little easier...

I'll keep my eyes open for a dead D-5 for you...
Great, thanks!

Yep, same thing with the blades, looks like they are made of derlin. There were some pretty big burs from the melting/assembly of the top to the actual blades that I cleaned up just now with a razor blade, I also took some fine sandpaper and polished the backs of the blades. The trailing edge of the blades is nice and sharp, but the leading edges are very blunt. If I could get to them easily I would think sharpening them would help a little like you said.

I also took the back of the motors apart on both the vario and non and they use exactly the same PCB, you can see the bare circuit where the rehostat (if that's what it's called) is not installed on the non-vario. I should break out the multi-meter and poke around in there to see if there is a voltage difference getting applied to the motor. There is also an RPM sensing spot on the variable motor that never came with a sensing wire. There is a very large capacitor on both motors and they are the same size 1000uF but different brands. Something tells me you might have the ability to change some voltages around in there if you knew what you were doing, especially since the motor can run at 24v at 12v, there is some reserve. But then again the 24V curve is not significantly stronger than 12V, but if you tweaked it to something equivalent to 14V, that might be a good sweet spot(heat dump vs power)?

Maybe it's time to break out the old electronics lab again, I only know enough to be dangerous..lol
    
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post #14 of 25
I had to use a little bitty 1/16" shank Swiss needle file riffler to get to it, even at that I'm not sure that I didn't do more harm then good...

Yeah the pump might just be throttled maybe you can figure out where to jump it at...
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post #15 of 25
Thread Starter 
Interesting, my flow rate differences are now backed up by a max head test, I even used the same top on both pumps to confirm one modded top wasn't too different than the other.

Anyhow this is what I found:

MCP655 Variable (Ported Top 1): Max Head = 161.5" or 13.45'
Swiftech Sticker Model MCP655, Part No: 71310, Volts 8-24, Watts 3-33, Amps 1.9, MFR: 03/07
MCP655-B (Ported Top 1): Max Head = 126" or 10.5'
Swiftech Sticker Model MCP655-B, Part No: 72839, Volts 12, Watts 24, Amps 2.0, MFR: 04/07
I figure I lost about half a foot to one foot of max head with the top, so the swiftech chart and 11' head spec matches the -B model I have. I wonder if it's just the -B model or if Laing did the same thing with the D5 as they did with the DDC2 to DDC3.2 limiting??

FYI
I also stuck a really reduced nozzle in there (3/8" down to about 1/8") in the inlet and outlet of the -B model pump to see what if any differences there are with max pressure head.

Outlet nozzle - Did absolutely nothing still 126" of head
Inlet nozzle - Gained....up to 133" of head or a .58' or about a 6% pressure head gain.

If anyone does this mod I would leave the inlet alone, only port the outlet. I need to experiement with some inlet nozzles now and see what improves a real world loop.

So, I wouldn't recommend the 655-B model over the variable anymore, it's clearly weaker. In fact the MCP655 variable model is almost 30% stronger in max presssure head than the MCP655-B.
    
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post #16 of 25
Yeah I sure wont suggest them 30% is way to much to give up....Maybe some-one that has the one with-out a rheo and would do a head test, in case you just got a bad one...I don't really know why they would throttle it like a DDC...The DDC over-volted on start up to 22V thats why they throttled it and put in the 5 second start-up delay...But hey anything is possible thats for sure....I cant find the link on how to do a solder bridge that would change the 10V DDC to 18V on the controller PCB...My browser corrupted on me yesterday and I lost all my book-marks, it may be something as simple as that to get the Under-powered D-5 up to speed...Great work Thanks for taking the time to do it...
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post #17 of 25
Thread Starter 
Thanks, hope it helps some folks out.

Yeah, I'd be interested if someon can confirm. Alex said he was planning to redo some curves himself including a D5, and I told him about the flow rate differences.

I feel bad for all the -B basic recommendations I've been handing out...not any more. I'm not sure why they would make the basic anything but max setting on the vario, but it appears unless it's a fluke that they put a different resistor to replace the variable potentiometer that's missing. I'm just staring both side by side and I can't find a different resistor in there unless it's on the underside of the pcb.

I've also contacted Laing about finding the strong model and if I can just buy parts somewhere like the 3/4" hosebarb top. The "D5-Strong" with 3/4" Norval Hosebarb appears to have the highest head at 2GPM of all the tops.
    
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post #18 of 25
Thread Starter 
I found my answer, just needed to actually read the entire brochure. See the top paragraph of page 4:
http://www.lainginc.com/pdf/LTI%20D5...-%206pages.pdf

The 4 curve is the fixed performance of the D5basic.

Setting 4 of the 810 model SHOULD be getting around 11' of max head, so that's about right.

Now I just need to find that resistor and figure out what I need to do to create a setting 6
    
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post #19 of 25
Nice job once again chart Martin!!!
good to know my dremeling on my pump was for the better...now to do the other one
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post #20 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210 View Post
I found my answer, just needed to actually read the entire brochure. See the top paragraph of page 4:
http://www.lainginc.com/pdf/LTI%20D5...-%206pages.pdf

The 4 curve is the fixed performance of the D5basic.

Setting 4 of the 810 model SHOULD be getting around 11' of max head, so that's about right.

Now I just need to find that resistor and figure out what I need to do to create a setting 6
haha let me know as well!!!

im just following your lead dude
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