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post #11 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by H3||scr3am View Post
Maybe you should learn to read...

I said it doesn't help, it lowers the thermal capacity of the water resulting in less heat movement, resulting in higher temps. But if you want more here it comes... with the added viscosity you also loose flow rate, the acidic balance of coolants, even as diluted as they are has been shown to eat away at tubing, which over time leads to many risks, including PVC string like substances being caught in impellers, which cuts the entire system...
you're saying it lowers thermal capacity... but at the same time... you said... "allowing for more conductivity" (before you tell me to read again... i just want you to know that i know these two things are different...)

i think you should take a look at the specific heat (C) of water, air, copper, ethylene glycol, and propylene glycol...

added viscosity... yes... let's look at this too... water's specific gravity is 1... ethylene glycol is 1.1... propylene glycol is 1.04... wow... that's a massive difference... what if you take into account the surface tension of the fluids...


so... when i take into account... a 4% thicker coolant... that has 50% less surface tension... how much flow rate am i looking at *loosing*?
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post #12 of 15
I ran this straight in my loop for a while. It cooled just as well as water if not a little better. I never had a chance to do any scientific comparisons though.

http://www.cooltechnica.com/Merchant...Code=Zerex-RSC
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post #13 of 15
LOL you're telling me you're running your mouth when you don't know the difference between thermal capacity and conductivity...

Conductivity is the fluids ability to absorb heat from in this case the copper water block

Capacity is the overall amount of heat it can hold per unit..
Table of thermal capacatence for basic WC liquids


Here are the viscosities of those chemicals you were talking about Vs. Water
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post #14 of 15
I decided I should post this here in response to a PM that I received about my earlier post in this thread. The PM was questioning my sanity regarding running straight zerex in a loop.

My response was this.

Funny thing is I remember having this discussion at the time and I saw all the advice that you should run a 5% solution, but when I looked on the Zerex container, it didn't say a word about mixing it with distilled water. So I ran it straight for about 6 or 8 months and never had any problems at all. The pump made the same noises as when I started of course. It never was a silent pump. The real deciding factor as to whether or not it was screwing up anything was the tubing and after all that time the tubing was crystal clear. So nothing was being damaged at all.
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post #15 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by ilhe4e12345 View Post
ok well then what about if i jsut use distilled water, what can i add to it to prevent algae from growing and clogging it up? i use typical solution's and coolents but heard distilled is best. please what can i buy to prevent growth in tubes....

thanks again
i use an anti fungiside that i use for my fish tank, its called fung-off... ;-) (really)

i put about 8-10 drops in my rs, and the cool thing is that its green, and its UV Reactive too! works awesome, i change my water once a year or so, and i just rebuilt, so i checked all my blocks ect, and there isnt one little speck of fungi, or corrosion, there sparkling clean!
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