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Looking for the best parts

post #1 of 15
Thread Starter 
Honestly I am just lazy today and in a hurry as I am at work. I am looking for some simple answers (I think) about some parts. I read through this thread http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...d-cooling.html and figured why not post a question of my own.

Ok I have 250.00 and I want the very best for that price. Can I get a few links to the best parts for the budget I am in? Also I plan to do LOTS of research but I am just trying to get my feet wet so to speak. I will be back later tonight after work... thanks a lot guys.
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post #2 of 15
Here are some good parts for a good custom watercooling setup(may I suggest the following):

Pumps:
Laing D5 Vario/Swiftech MCP655 Inline 12V DC Pump
OR
Laing D5 Basic/Swiftech MCP655-B Inline 12V DC Pump
OR
Laing DDC w/ Petra'sTech DDCT-01s Top Combo


Radiator:
(These following rads are best used with some high CMF fans because they are thick):
Black Ice® GTX Gen Two Xtreme 240 Highest Peformance Radiator
OR if your on a tight budget, this rad:
Black Ice Pro II Compact High Peformance Radiator
OR
Black Ice Xtreme 2 High Peformance Radiator

(These following rads are best used with some lower CMF fans because they are thinner and have a less dense cooling fin structure):
ThermoChill PA120.2 Dual 120mm Radiator
(the thermochill is thick, but it seems to perform well with both high and low CMF fans)
Swiftech Radiator - MCR220 Quiet Power Series Dual 120 mm

NOTE: These are the 2x120mm size radiator, they also come in 1x120mm, 2x120mm, 3x120mm and the Hw Labs make 4x120mm radiator sizes.

Fans:
High CMF fans will always get you better temps with thick rads.
So if you dont mind noise go with these:
120mm x 38mm Panaflo FBA12G12M-1J Medium Speed Hydro Wave Bearing 3pin Case Fan (86.5 CFM/35 dBA)
120mm x 38mm Sunon KDE1212PMB3-6A Double Ball Bearing 4pin Case Fan (108 CFM/42 dBA)
If you like your PC silent, go with these:
120mm Yate Loon D12SL-12 Case Fan - Black (47 CFM, 28 dBA)
(Cheap, perform well and are quite!! got to love Loons!)

CPU block:
D-TEK FuZion Universal CPU Waterblock
OR
Swiftech Apogee GT Universal Waterblock
OR
A custom made waterblock, milled by hand by Fred a member here on this very WCing forum. You can reach him at his site here:
Stinger Waterblocks


GPU nVIDIA 8800 series:
For you GPU, there are 2 options, a full coverage block that covers everything including the RAM, or one that just covers the GPU core and cools the other parts with passive cooling:
(personally i prefer full coverage but results show that just the core one gives you better temps)
Full coverage:
EK-FC8800GTX Full Cover Waterblock for nVidia 8800 GTX
EK-FC8800GTS Full Cover Waterblock for nVidia 8800 GTS
OR
Swiftech Stealth Full Cover Waterblock for nVidia 8800 Series
OR
Danger Den - 8800GTX
Danger Den - 8800GTS

OR

Just GPU core coverage for the GTX/GTS:
Swiftech MCW60 GPU Waterblock w/ G80 Adapter Plate (Retail Edition)
OR the combo one with the ramsinks included:
Swiftech MCW60 GPU Waterblock w/ MC14 Ramsinks

Tubing:
1/2" ID (3/4" OD) Tygon R-3603 Laboratory-Grade Tubing
/16" ID (5/8" OD) Tygon R-3603 Laboratory-Grade Tubing
AND
1/2" ID (3/4" OD) Masterkleer General Purpose Clear PVC Tubing
7/16" ID (5/8" OD) Masterkleer General Purpose Clear PVC Tubing

With all that bending of tubing in your PC you are bound to form what they call "kinks". Which is when the tubing gives way and collapses to for a very tight bend, these are bad as they restrict the flow and can cause your pump to over work itself.
Thicker OD of the tubing is known to kink less since the walls are thicker.
But if your still having problems here is a good solution:
Swiftech SmartCoils 625 (for 5/8" OD Tubing) - UV Ocean Blue
(Comes in other colors as well)

Some people say the 7/16"ID is easier to work with as its thinner than the 1/2"ID.
Personally i picked the 1/2"ID, just to have the largest.

As tygon is more flexable, but also much more expensive than Masterkleer, i suggest you use Tygon for the tight curves you will need in you system, and the cheaper Masterkleer for the straight parts of your loop.
At tygon at about $3.25 per foot and Masterkleer at $.75 per foot it will save you some costs that way.

A radbox:
Swiftech MCB-120 "Radbox" Radiator/Fan Housing Rev. 2 - Black
You will need one of these to mount your radiator at the back of your case.

A "T" Line or reservoir: (OR both)
Now you can use what they call a "T" line or a reservoir in your watercooling loop.
Swiftech MCRES-MICRO Clear HI-FLOW Water Cooling Reservoir. There are many good reservoirs out there, you just have to pick one that suits you liking, they all share the same purpose, which is just holding some coolant.
OR
For a "T" line you will need 2 parts:
1/2" OD T-Fitting (for 1/2" and 7/16" ID Tubing)
and
Danger Den Delrin FillPort They come in different colors.Blue,black,brass,etc.

Other miscellaneous stuff that you will need and make your build easier and more secure include:
Stainless Steel Worm-Drive Hose Clamp
PTFE Thread Tape
Danger Den Filling Syringe


Coolant:
For coolant there are many choices you can go with, look up some idea's on the forums.
Pure distilled water with 0% addatives will give you the best temperatures.
For much more detailed info you can go here:
Coolant Ideas
Personally i like this:
UV Reactive Pentosin G11 Coolant Additive (Blue)
You will also need a biocide to kill some evil algae growth in your system.I use this:
Petra'sTech "PT_Nuke" Concentrated Biocide

I really like www.petrastechshop.com
I order from them all the time, they have great stuff and some excellent customer service.

Some more good shops to buy watercooling parts can be found here:
Stores to buy watercooling gear

Some good links to read to get you started:
Water Cooling - In English

Water Cooling Guide

Assembling your Custom Watercooling

Choosing The Best Pump for Your WaterCooling System

Guide To WaterCooling and Leak Testing

The Beginners Watercooling FAQ


For examples on "T" lines and all that take a look at My Rig in my sig bellow to see some nice pics.
Or
Look at some pics of our watercooling setups of the people in this forum posted here:
WaterCooling Pics
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post #3 of 15
Here's a great kit for $249: Petra'sTech CoolKit Elite - Rev.2
Only kit I would recommend
Custom built is the way to go but, if you want a $250 ready-to-go kit, Petra's is #1
Very good quality parts there.
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post #4 of 15
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post #5 of 15
Thread Starter 
After reading several of these threads I decided to pick out some parts. I came up with some pretty descent part I believe but by all mean suggest something if it will perform better.

Pump:
http://www.petrastechshop.com/swmcin12pu.html
or
http://www.petrastechshop.com/laddcwpeddto.html

Radiator: I was thinking this one with a few silent fans
http://www.petrastechshop.com/hwlablicegts1.html

CPU block:
I was thinking the stinger V8 Economy for 80.00 bucks. If there is one that will give better results please let me know.

I also planned to use this for my NB as I plan to run at 500mhz FSB. My MB has a max NB strap of 1066, and 500fsb on a 1066 strap needs much voltage (like 1.65-.70v). I just feel safer having aftermarket cooler for the NB.

I plan to use tygon and masterkleer tubing as to save on cash where ever I can. Check out the screenshot and let me get some feedback please. REP to all that helped so far.
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BloodRed i7
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post #6 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Villainstone View Post
After reading several of these threads I decided to pick out some parts. I came up with some pretty descent part I believe but by all mean suggest something if it will perform better.

Pump:
http://www.petrastechshop.com/swmcin12pu.html
or
http://www.petrastechshop.com/laddcwpeddto.html

Radiator: I was thinking this one with a few silent fans
http://www.petrastechshop.com/hwlablicegts1.html

CPU block:
I was thinking the stinger V8 Economy for 80.00 bucks. If there is one that will give better results please let me know.

I also planned to use this for my NB as I plan to run at 500mhz FSB. My MB has a max NB strap of 1066, and 500fsb on a 1066 strap needs much voltage (like 1.65-.70v). I just feel safer having aftermarket cooler for the NB.

I plan to use tygon and masterkleer tubing as to save on cash where ever I can. Check out the screenshot and let me get some feedback please. REP to all that helped so far.

I find the D5 is slightly quieter than the DDC. This is probably because the D5 is on a mount and vibrations are better dampened.
Once again...
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Once again...
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post #7 of 15
I would get the D-5 pump...The new DDC pumps are lower powered then the old ones they just barely beat out the D-5 and are not as reliable....That would be a decent rad with say 50-60cfm fans...The Thermochill PA.3 is the best for quiet computing but it costs around a $150 bux....
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post #8 of 15
Thread Starter 
I noticed on the V8 that there were three ports coming out of the water block. I am curious to know what the third one is for. I know that one is return and the other is input I guess you could call it. Not sure what the third one is for thought.
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BloodRed i7
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post #9 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Villainstone View Post
I noticed on the V8 that there were three ports coming out of the water block. I am curious to know what the third one is for. I know that one is return and the other is input I guess you could call it. Not sure what the third one is for thought.
Normally, a single inlet in the center of the block, with 2 outlets on opposing corners. This can help in a more even distribution of the water flow across the block as well as relieve some of the flow restriction within the block.
post #10 of 15
And to add to that you can either Y back the two out-lets into one then into the res or do like I did and get a double in res...I did that so I could get as much flow from it as possible...


This is the one I use..


...Dual-in Res
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