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Don't use teflon on SS - Page 3

post #21 of 30
I thought stainless steel couldn't rust?
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post #22 of 30
Thread Starter 
I don't know what it is chemically that causes it... But i have seen it first hand on new fittings with teflon tape that rusted after just a week and was told that teflon tape sealing threads used in water processing will do the same thing.

edit: yes it could be simply a product of the type of SS but i can't tell which type of SS companies send out for fittings. When i enter watercooling on my next project i will use Polypropelyne.
    
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post #23 of 30
Most barbs are chrome plated brass not stainless....

EDIT: Why don't you rub some celery and rubber bands on them and see what it does...
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post #24 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by ira-k View Post
Most barbs are chrome plated brass not stainless....
To add to that ... or Nickel-Plated Brass.

None of which ( the combination of ) causes any Metallurgical damage.
post #25 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by HE_WHO_IS View Post
I don't know what it is chemically that causes it... But i have seen it first hand on new fittings with teflon tape that rusted after just a week and was told that teflon tape sealing threads used in water processing will do the same thing.

edit: yes it could be simply a product of the type of SS but i can't tell which type of SS companies send out for fittings. When i enter watercooling on my next project i will use Polypropelyne.
Agreed.

What I use to seal the threads on Polypropelene that seems to work very well and requires no cure time is Rector Seal #5--I have had every poly to metal connection leak when I use teflon tape...I think the plastic and the tape are too slippery to make a proper firm friction fit with a tapered fitting. Metal to metal I have no problem with the tape...no corrosion nothing like that.

Ira-K likes to use RTV sealant.

The only problem I have with sealants that cure is if the connection is stressed while plumbing the lines it can break the seal of the cured compound. Ditto taht of the tape...apparently. With the RTV I think you could proabably crank it down so much that it would stay secure...with the tape I have not had success with that as it deforms the threads beond a certain point on the taper.

I use a celery stalk to apply the Rectorseal...wipeoff the excess with a wide rubber band. Put the ruberband around the glass of water and then put the celery stick into the glass and watch what happens.

Nothing,

That's what will happen if you use Rectorseal #5: nothing. No leaks.
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post #26 of 30
The rubber band from the celery introduces acid to the mix...I used to work in a produce section of a grocery store...there was warnings about celery, and that after handling it to wash your WHOLE ARMS. You would get celery burns and it wasn't pretty..some of the guys would come in the next day whining all day about their celery burns lol.
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post #27 of 30
Thread Starter 
this is turning into the PWN the post Above you page.
what Pwns celery burns?
Sideburns
    
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post #28 of 30
I was sure teflon was more for plastic application? I do have 1 brass fitting though, maybe I should remove the tape from it./
    
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post #29 of 30
I have no had any issues with The Teflon tape. Maybe you should use actually liquid coolant not just distilled water....
    
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post #30 of 30
newsflash -- bull**** 'coolant' is usually 80-90% DISTILLED water with some anti-corrosion or anti-fungal additives. You get the same result with a bit of bleach and a bit of glycol diluted in pure, distilled water.

EDIT: what you have to watch out for is algae and make sure your pH is neutral.

Its JUST like keeping freshwater fish, minus temperature adjustments.

Dbl Edit: scratch that is even EASIER than keeping freshwater fish wince your waterblocks dont produce waste that eff's up your levels. in a decent waterloop little to no bio/organic materials are introduced, just the possibility of electrolysis due to the metals contact with your coolant. (in that instance its mostly like modern-day car coolant systems)
    
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