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Some polycarbonate questions

post #1 of 34
Thread Starter 
So I am on revision 3 of my custom case idea as a trip to Lowe's showed me I needed to revisit my material choice again.

So I started thinking about polycarbonate and google is not giving me many good answer (probably because I am tired and not using the best search terms).

With acrylic, you can score it and easily break the sheet into pieces. Does polycarbonate work the same way? A lot of what I need will be straight rectangular pieces. I suck at cutting a straight line (at least in wood) so this would help greatly for me to get nice clean "cuts"

The polycarbonate I am finding is all clear which I do not need. How well does paint adhere? Is a special primer required?

Do you still need special drills and blades like you do with acrylic?

I think that takes care of the questions for now. Time to lock the cat away and get some sleep
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post #2 of 34
Polycarb is good stuff, I like it a lot more than acrylic. It's harder, you can't break it without the risk of starting a huge crack. You don't have a table saw? Dremel? Paint adheres very well, I use Krylon Fusion paint since it is meant for Plastic and is very scratch-resistant after a few days. I use normal tool-bits when working with polycarb, I cut it on a table saw, or with the Dremel routing attachment.
post #3 of 34
Thread Starter 
I wish I had a table saw... oh wait I wish I had the space for a table saw!

Dremel I have but on re-thinking this a jigsaw might be a better choice just have to make sure use guides to keep my lines straight. Actually the more I am thinking on this the better a jig saw might be but will need larger sheets so it will be more expensive but it will look a lot better in the end.

Sorry for the pre morning coffee ramble
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post #4 of 34
A Jigsaw is excellent, I like it more than the Dremel, except for tight turns. It always seems to slip my mind when I post stuff like this though. If you want some good straight cuts just clamp a board to the polycarb so that it is about an inch or so (distance depends on your saw) away from the line so the blade lines up and use the board as a guide. There are your straight lines.
post #5 of 34
Polyc is far more durable and overall, easier to work with...
As said, its not prone to cracking like plexi.
BTW, it polishes very well too, the edges can be sanded and polished to a clear finish
    
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post #6 of 34
wait you cant score polycarb? my mod just keeps getting more and more expensive
    
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post #7 of 34
I don't think you can, but I may be wrong. What thickness are you planning on getting?
post #8 of 34
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pwnage101 View Post
my mod just keeps getting more and more expensive
I know and hate that feeling!!
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post #9 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by RyGuy View Post
I don't think you can, but I may be wrong. What thickness are you planning on getting?
(i hope i'm not stealing this thread)
1/8 inch thick. we cant even find any polycarb at home depot so i'm gonna stick with Lexan. can lexan score? what's the difference between Lexan and polycarbonate?

Quote:
Originally Posted by nagal View Post
I know and hate that feeling!!
yea and i'm already 250 over my budget and cant get a job until next year when i'm 16, i think. i'll have to find something more profitable than baby-sitting

edit: oops, i never knew that lexan is a company the makes polycarb I went to home depot today and found a scoring knife that works with lexan. it says it just takes about 5 firm passes for the 3/32" lexan i found next to it. to know that lexan can score makes me happy and the tool is only 4 dollers usd.
    
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post #10 of 34
Yeah, it really depends on the thickness. I never really thought about scoring the sheet and breaking it off, but I never really made that many square pieces, most of the time I have curved cuts or concave cuts.
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