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Temps don't seem right, at all.

post #1 of 52
Thread Starter 
I have my new watercooling setup running but the temps just don't add up right in my opinion. I have a Stinger V8, MCP355 w/ PetrasTech Top, and Black Ice GTS 240 with Panaflo M1's (86 CFM) pushing with Rosewill LED (77CFM) fans pulling. I am getting about 58-60C load with my E6400 at 450FSB (3.6GHz) and 1.6v (BIOS) 1.52v read @ load by running Orthos small FFT's. Room temp is about 26C, temps read through SpeedFan. I have re-seated the block once already, the system seems stable at this setting (4h so far), but too hot! What does Overclock.net think?
post #2 of 52
I might have the solution. The Stinger diamond pin WB also has a painted plexi top, but is otherwise the same size
as my brass top V8. Your Asus and my P35-DS3R have similar cramped cpu block space due to solid caps aligning
two sides of the socket and large NB HS/HP. The caps only allow for mounting in one direction with the plexi's point
butting the NB sink. Mine required dremel cutting the point flat in order to mount the block. The plexi tops paint
being opaque and having mirror lapped the blocks sides made inspection of the mounting alignment difficult at best.

Monitoring temps with Everest, TAT and Core temp, it Idled @ 2º/2ºC rock solid for an hour. When I ran
Orthos/small FFT's, the load temps shot up to 56-60ºC in less than 30 seconds.

On closer investigation I discovered the problem was the plexi top. Due to the barb hole slack in the plexi and tight
mounting space, the block shifted during tightening with one corner coming to rest slightly on the edge of one of the caps.

After shaving the point another 1/8", I held the block firmly aligned while I torqued it down with the other hand.
Now it Idles @ -7º/-7ºC and Loads @ 8º/8ºC with same ambient source and water temps.
  
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post #3 of 52
Thread Starter 
The block is sitting perfectly fine on the CPU, neither the block nor the mount is touching any of the capacitors. Whenever it goes into a load state it shoots from 42-44C idle to the load temp 55-57C in about one second, and eventually rises to about 60C max after a while (~10 mins). I think it rises slowly because of the temp inside the case rises slightly. I am thinking about turning the fans around to the rad fans push air into the case instead of pulling it out of the case. I don't think that will drop the temps 10C though.
post #4 of 52
Thread Starter 
Anybody?
post #5 of 52
Have you reversed the rad fans yet?
  
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post #6 of 52
I really don't know RyGuy...I'm like Dryad it sounds like a mounting issue running that hot...I'm using a V-8 with a 320W Pelt on it and it does great...


Does it seem like you are getting good flow through all the loop? Thats all I can think off with your temp's that high, blockage or the mount...
My System
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
E8600 4545Mhz*9 w/1.29V DFI DK P45 XFX 8800 GS D9GKX & D9GMH 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSPower
2x Seagate 160 Perp. RD-1 2x Asus Vista Premium Corsair HX 620 
Case
Open Bench 
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My System
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
E8600 4545Mhz*9 w/1.29V DFI DK P45 XFX 8800 GS D9GKX & D9GMH 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSPower
2x Seagate 160 Perp. RD-1 2x Asus Vista Premium Corsair HX 620 
Case
Open Bench 
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post #7 of 52
Thread Starter 
When I was leak-testing, and working all the bubbles out it seemed like the flow was great, so I don't really know what to do. I will try reversing the fans tomorrow, we'll see what that does. Thanks for the advice guys!
post #8 of 52
Did you try Just usin either the 86 CFM or the 77CFM fans only in a pull or push mode instead of mixin and matchin em? and Wut kind of liquid are u usin? Pure distilled water? Any Glycerin? Glycol? Not too sure bout the Stinger but for my Apogee theres a certain way the coolant has to hit the block in order to get proper flow because its impingement style block...
Loosey Goosey
(12 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
E8400 E0 Stepping 4.3 @ 1.368vcore ASUS P5Q Deluxe eVGA GTX 260 216 2x2 Corsair Dominator 1066mhz 5-5-5-15 
Hard DriveOSMonitorKeyboard
Velociraptor 300GB +(2)750GB + (2)1TB WD Black Cav Windows 7 Pro 64-bit Dell 2407WFP + 50" Pioneer 5020 KURO Logitech DiNovo Edge 
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PC Power and Cooling Silencer 750 Quad CM 690 II Advanced Orochi Razer 
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Loosey Goosey
(12 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
E8400 E0 Stepping 4.3 @ 1.368vcore ASUS P5Q Deluxe eVGA GTX 260 216 2x2 Corsair Dominator 1066mhz 5-5-5-15 
Hard DriveOSMonitorKeyboard
Velociraptor 300GB +(2)750GB + (2)1TB WD Black Cav Windows 7 Pro 64-bit Dell 2407WFP + 50" Pioneer 5020 KURO Logitech DiNovo Edge 
PowerCaseMouse
PC Power and Cooling Silencer 750 Quad CM 690 II Advanced Orochi Razer 
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post #9 of 52
Thread Starter 
I am using distilled water and G11 antifreeze with a drop of biocide. The air flow through the radiator seems fine, I am starting to wonder if it actually is the contact with the CPU, but it seems good, I inspected it after re-seating it. I really don't want to tear the whole thing apart to change the fans around though.

The Stinger V8 has an S channel design where the coolant goes in the middle, through a pressure jet, and out the 2 side barbs. It has great flow, I just don't know what part of my loop is causing the problems.

post #10 of 52
My first question.

Where is your radiator and are you sure you're getting cool and cold ambient air temperature as the intake to your rad. I've seen a few setups where people have their PSU or dual 8800s exhausting right into the rad. Buy one of those household indoor/outdoor temperature boxes at your local department store and use the temperature probe to check out the temps.

Better yet, buy a waterproof temperature probe thermometer from a Petco of fish supply store, then you can test your water temperture by dipping into the reservoir or tank. This will rule out if you have a radiator problem, temps should be less than 5C above ambient.

If your water temp is good, all that's left is the block mount. Maybe you have a convext IHS on the chip that could use a good lapping? Take a good look at how your thermal paste is spread on the chip, it should be very thin where the core sits under the IHS, if it's thick or off to the side, or something else better mounting will help. The story of what's going on lies within what you see when you take the block off. Take a picture of the paste spread after removing and we can help evaluate it.
    
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3930K ASrock X79 Ext7 Evga GTX570 CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
Phoenix SSD+2TB Seagate drives ASUS DVD-RW combo Windows 7 28" Hanns-G HZ281 
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
3930K ASrock X79 Ext7 Evga GTX570 CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
Phoenix SSD+2TB Seagate drives ASUS DVD-RW combo Windows 7 28" Hanns-G HZ281 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
MS Natural Corsair TX650 Danger Den Torture Rack Logitech MX518 
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Desk 
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