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Temps don't seem right, at all. - Page 4

post #31 of 52
Thread Starter 
The backplate on this case is polycarb, and I removed all of the standoffs I wasn't using. I am running at 450x8, 1.6v core (1.51v read) and right now the temps seem about the same, maybe a little lower. Temps are 21-22 ambient, 29 inside case, 57 CPU, and boths cores at 58. I am reading this through speedfan, I will get coretemp and TAT tonight to see what those say, but I read that speedfan has fixed their bugs so they read the same as TAT now. Before the switch at the same ambient I was getting about 2C higher on every reading, the temps still seem kinda high though.
post #32 of 52
Yeah that seems really hot...I've not run a socket 775 but I know guys are running a lot cooler then that...I know you've checked it but the only thing I know that would make it run really hot is either the mount or flow...Do you have another block you can throw on it and try it out...You know the center jet on the Stinger has a jet plate, you might want to look in that and see if it's plugged with something...You would need to back flow it to get it out since you cant take yours apart....
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post #33 of 52
Thread Starter 
Do you think my radiator is up to snuff? It's a used HW Labs BI GTS 240mm. When I reversed the fans it looked like there was a little dust, but nothing serious. The other thing I have neglected to post until now is that this radiator was damaged in shipping. One of the screws pierced a decent sized hole in one of the cross-tubes. It was up under the top left mounting hole when looking at the back side of the radiator. I fixed it by basically soldering it closed. I don't think the tube was blocked, but would that cause a significant temp increase? If one of the tubes was partially blocked?

I don't have any other blocks to test either. I am considering replacing the radiator though, do you think a new GTS would be OK, or would it be worth it to get a GTX? (I may get a Q6600 soon)

EDIT: I also have the DDC with the blue impeller, which I hear is not as good as the one with the orange impeller. Again, I doubt that would make a big difference overall, but if you start adding up all these little differences, you end up with a big one.
post #34 of 52
You know thats possible that you have a partially plugged rad...Do you have one you could borrow to try it out before you buy another one? I'd hate for you to buy another and find out that wasn't the problem...


Burn ran his 437W Pelt on a 360 GTS with a push-pull on it,I don't think he had shrouds on it either...I really like my 480 GTX...If you don't mind high cfm fans they are great..I'm not even putting a load on mine with this Pelt...They have a high fin per inch count like the GTS so you need to keep them cleaned out...What I do when my wife isn't around is spray some canned air through it while the fans are running......Keeps it cleaned out pretty well but makes a big dust cloud when you do it...All those fins make for pretty good heat exchange, you need to keep them cleaned out though...
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post #35 of 52
Thread Starter 
I don't have any spare WC parts, I just started into it. Do you think it wold be worth the effort to hook it up to a garden hose and blast water through it? Or would that damage it? I will also blow through the fins with my air compressor too.
post #36 of 52
Quote:
Originally Posted by RyGuy View Post
I don't have any spare WC parts, I just started into it. Do you think it wold be worth the effort to hook it up to a garden hose and blast water through it? Or would that damage it? I will also blow through the fins with my air compressor too.


Yeah that would be a good idea..You should be able to tell if you have any blockage...I wouldn't blast it with to high a psi...You can just really lay it on its back and put water in one barb then see if it flows on through to the other barb when you stand it up...
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post #37 of 52
Thread Starter 
I already know it does that when I was testing the seal when I fixed the leak. I layed it down and slowly poured water into it and it eventually came up the other barb, but I don't know how well it does at a high flow rate, since I was just pouring it slowly. It makes a gurgling sound when the air bubbles work through it after I replaced the mobo each time though, I figured this was normal.
post #38 of 52
Yeah the gurgling is normal..It should run through pretty fast..Try a hose on it ..I blow them out just like I would with a car rad, opposite the direction that the flow normally goes...Back-flush that puppy...
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post #39 of 52
Thread Starter 
I will do that tomorrow then, and while I'm at it I think I will ditch the worm-clamps and just use zip-ties.
post #40 of 52
Thread Starter 
Still haven't gotten around to doing all that I wanted to since the weather has been nasty around here and it really kills my motivation to do anything. I am now at 500x7 (3.5GHz) and getting about 55-56C load at 1.6v BIOS. Speedfan reads 1.51v at load. Is this normal for the P5B to drop that much voltage from the BIOS setting? It doesn't droop much at load, but it's always ~0.1v lower than the BIOS setting.

The block doesn't get warm at all at load, I felt it today. None of the four sides felt any hotter than either of the others. I think I might just break it all down and get a new radiator, possibly a PA-120.2. Do you think that would be worth it? I might get a quad-core soon, so I figured I might as well go for the best rad I can get.
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