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watercooling safety

post #1 of 11
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what are all the safety things you need to know about watercooling? because i dont want a fish tank, i want a loop

-dont use zip ties as clamps?
-use teflon tape for threads?
-what about plastic fittings? like the ones that come with the MCRES-MICRO res by default. can those crack under high clamp pressure? i wouldn't think so because i was told that those plastic t-fittings are pretty sturdy.
-an of course leak testing
-what else?
    
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post #2 of 11
-Using two zip-ties per fitting is fine for clamps. Just make sure to REALLY tighten them... user pliers.

-Don't use teflon tape for metal threading. It really isn't needed in most cases since there is an O-ring

-They are fine but do tend to be longer.
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post #3 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by DuckieHo View Post
-Using two zip-ties per fitting is fine for clamps. Just make sure to REALLY tighten them... user pliers.

-Don't use teflon tape for metal threading. It really isn't needed in most cases since there is an O-ring

-They are fine but do tend to be longer.
so use teflon on plastic barbs (ones that come with swiftech stuff?)

I can't seem to even get my plastic 1/2" barbs on my MCR220, it screws about half way down and pretty much gets stuck, good thing I am taking my tiem and still have about a month till the an actual setup.
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post #4 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by dr4gon View Post
so use teflon on plastic barbs (ones that come with swiftech stuff?)

I can't seem to even get my plastic 1/2" barbs on my MCR220, it screws about half way down and pretty much gets stuck, good thing I am taking my tiem and still have about a month till the an actual setup.
I have not had any luck with teflon tape ion any application. I use a product you find at any Home Depot or Lowes called pipe dope or thread sealant. Pipe dope is funnier so that's what i call it

rthe sutff I found that works perfecton everything is Rectorseal #5--you can use the loop immediately--no cure time.

Teflon on poly/metal fittings is a bad thing--it always leaks from my experience--the plastic is too slippery.
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post #5 of 11
I only use teflon tape on brass. Everything else I use "pipe dope".

Just leak test the loop before you turn on the computer. That is the only real concrete safety advice, the parts you use are up to you.
post #6 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by CyberDruid View Post
I have not had any luck with teflon tape ion any application. I use a product you find at any Home Depot or Lowes called pipe dope or thread sealant. Pipe dope is funnier so that's what i call it

rthe sutff I found that works perfecton everything is Rectorseal #5--you can use the loop immediately--no cure time.

Teflon on poly/metal fittings is a bad thing--it always leaks from my experience--the plastic is too slippery.
Haha...Rectorseal??!

Will have to look that up the next time I head over to HD, right next to Preparation H :lmasmile

In all honesty, I leak test for 30 minutes Of course, with everything installed where it will be when it's running. All sorts of tension is put on tubing and fittings where it isn't in a normal, free-floating setup.
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post #7 of 11
Even if your Rector is sealed , I would suggest using a six outlet power strip for instant total system
power down in the advent of a water world mishap.

I prefer external WC systems, because if you can't see the leak, you can't prevent the smoke.

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post #8 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by Burn View Post
Haha...Rectorseal??!

Will have to look that up the next time I head over to HD, right next to Preparation H :lmasmile

In all honesty, I leak test for 30 minutes Of course, with everything installed where it will be when it's running. All sorts of tension is put on tubing and fittings where it isn't in a normal, free-floating setup.
Whoa...I test mine for over 24 hours. Just have the pump hooked up to a hotwired PSU. I have found "sweat leaks" that I woudn't have noticed with out it running for several hours.

metal on metal I use the goop..."pipe dope" if you will.

Plastic on metal I use nothing at all other then turning it down tight and then turning a little more and I've never had a leak from them.
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post #9 of 11
So does anyone know why I can't get my plastic swiftech barbs on my MCR 220? Let me get a picture

That's pretty much about how far I can go before it just gets stuck, I'm afraid to force it in thinking it might get stuck further or break the plastic threads.
LL
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post #10 of 11
first thread, you'll have to force it some... and are u missing the o rings?
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