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Lapping Practice (help?)

post #1 of 13
Thread Starter 
I took a Thermalright SLK-947U and attempted to lap it. Did I do something wrong? Or does it look alright? I used 200, 400, 600, 1000, and 1500 grit sandpaper.

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post #2 of 13
Looks alright. You might need some finer grit to get the scratches out.

Put some sqaured paper near it. Check see if it is flat
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post #3 of 13
Looks like you didn't keep it in the same direction.

Don't "change" direction. If you go in an up and down direction, stay that way. Rotate 90 degrees, and keep going in up and down. Don't go up and down, then left and right, then figure 8, etc.

Not sure you did, but that's what those fine scratches look like..
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post #4 of 13
it looks shiney... but, was it just copper plated?
post #5 of 13
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChielScape View Post
it looks shiney... but, was it just copper plated?
Nah, it's all copper

Quote:
Originally Posted by IcedEarth View Post
Looks alright. You might need some finer grit to get the scratches out.

Put some sqaured paper near it. Check see if it is flat
Um...I don't think I have any more

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Pook View Post
Looks like you didn't keep it in the same direction.

Don't "change" direction. If you go in an up and down direction, stay that way. Rotate 90 degrees, and keep going in up and down. Don't go up and down, then left and right, then figure 8, etc.

Not sure you did, but that's what those fine scratches look like..
I went in small circles on one of my glass tables at home. I think I may have went counter-clockwise instead of clockwise once. I'm not really sure though

Is there any way to fix it?
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post #6 of 13
Yeah. Start over?

You used 200 grit? Dang... I think I used 220 and cursed myself for it. DEEP scratches. I recommend 400 first. It'll take a lil longer to get it flat but it seems to pay off in the end.
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post #7 of 13
400 for bad heatsinks, 600 for most to start with.

600 -> 800 -> 1000 -> 1200 -> 1500 -> 2000 = What I do.
Micron isn't really needed, but it makes it really good looking.
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post #8 of 13
The more material you need to take off (for really convex/concave surfaces), the lower the grit you need to use. Also, you should notice that as you go with progressively higher grits, the time you use with each progressively higher grit should be less than the one before it.

(In other words, the lowest grits should take the most time, as you're taking away the most material with these. The higher grits up the ladder are there to smooth out the work you did prior.)

Hope this helps!
    
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post #9 of 13
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the help guys! I think I will redo it. The surface does seem flat though.
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post #10 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by numlock2.0 View Post
Thanks for the help guys! I think I will redo it. The surface does seem flat though.
Flat is great.

Smooth is just a touch better. The real key when it's smooth is finding the optimum amount of TIM to use.

Good luck!
    
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