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Non Conductive Fluids - Page 2

post #11 of 20
Has anyone tested the viscosity of Fluid-xp verses water. I'm curious how much flow rate loss you may experience if any at all.

I know nothing will beat water in specific heat, but what about viscocity and flow rate?
    
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post #12 of 20
First-off lets get terms straight, DISTILLED water is conductive and manufactured simply by boiling water and condensing the steam.DEIONIZED water is a poor conductor, depending upon purity. Manufacture is by removing all non H+ or OH- ions from the water. The result is high resistance-high purity H2O that is VERY corrosive to metal.To put it simply... what is in your car radiator? DISTILLED water and anti-freeze. (NEVER use tap water!) Consider that any water-based computer cooling solution should be treated like an automobile. For environmental reasons use 'propylene glycol' based AF like Sierra. Stay away from 'ethylene glycol' based coolants.
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post #13 of 20
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the replies everyone.

Your answers are what I thought to be true. If you have a leak, and water is dispersed on your parts, more times than none, your going to be in trouble.

Thanks again
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post #14 of 20
I use Black Fluid XP. Stuffs freaking expensive. I am thinking about going back to regular coolant. Just gotta watch out for leaks and such.
    
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post #15 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by dr4gon View Post
what is this witch's brew you speak of?


I mix Pentosin at 10-1 with distilled water a couple of drops of PT Nuke an ounce of glycerin and a drop or 2 of Dawn dish washing soap...


The Pentosin is a anti-corrosive,it also has a UV dye in it so I can check for leaks with a 4" UV lamp...The PT Nuke is a biocide...The glycerin is a watter wetter and pump lube and the couple of drops of Dawn is also a water wetter, it helps to get the coolant in complete contact with the blocks and rad surfaces...Don't use to much or it will hurt your temp's...The glycerin you can get for a couple of bux at any drug-store..

...PT Nuke

...Pentosin 4oz

...
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post #16 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210 View Post
Has anyone tested the viscosity of Fluid-xp verses water. I'm curious how much flow rate loss you may experience if any at all.

I know nothing will beat water in specific heat, but what about viscocity and flow rate?
The viscosity of FluidXP is 20c @4.37 centistrokes and 40c @2.50 centistrokes (vs water 20c @1.00 & 40c @0.65). The flow rate loss can vary depend on the pump. Eventhough the numbers appeared there is huge difference, but this isn't true in reality. Propylene glycol, an ingredient in FluidXP has a viscosity of 20c @40.4. Motor oil has viscosity of 20c @300. So, the viscosity lost is neglectable in a water cooling setup.

The thermal absorptive / heat capacity of Fluid XP is 0.94 Btu (water is 1 Btu). Thermal conductivity of Fluid XP is 3.6 Btu (water is 4.2 Btu). The higher the number, the better. In general, you are expect to see 1~2c increase in coolant temerapure. But this is only you are dealing with a lot of heat (something like 200w).

NO, Fluid XP is not expensive. In fact, it is CHEAPER than WATER when used in water cooling. For water coolant, it need to be replace every 3 months. Each cycle, you have to add additives such as anti-algae and anti-corrosion. Let just say it cost $15 for those every 3 months. It cost you $120 for those additives over the period of two years. Fulid Xp can last 2 years without the need to replace and it only cost $35.
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post #17 of 20
From an engineering expert web site -

Quote:
DI water will dissolve roughly 30 ppm Cu at ambient T and typical pH of 5, and more at higher T. Enough to visibly contaminate the water. Perforation is likely in the higher T portions of a closed system.
Of course, with enough Prestone, Peak, etc., you can use copper, brass, carbon steel, etc.

The only metals suitable for contact with pure DI water are noble metals (gold, platinum) and those with highly passive oxide films (304/316 SS, Ti, Zr). Aluminum 1100, 3003, 5052, etc. can be used to 100oC if 0.04 ppm dissolved Al is tolerable [value for steam condensate tanks of Al 3003].

However, if you add this stuff from Petras - PT-Nuke
Which is copper based, the corrosive properties should be negated since the DI water will now be neutralized ... conductive once more ... but neutralized.

( I'll be able to let you all know first hand here shortly since I'll be running two loops with water that has gone through a Demineralization process and then through a De-ionization process directly after ... approximately .7ppm purity )
post #18 of 20
I use Distilled water and water wetter best temps ever and crystal clear

WaterWetter® is a unique wetting agent for cooling systems which reduces coolant temperatures by as much as 30ºF. This liquid product can be used to provide rust and corrosion protection in plain water for racing engines, which provides much better heat transfer properties than glycol-based antifreeze. Or it can be added to new or used antifreeze to improve the heat transfer of ethylene and propylene glycol systems. Designed for modern aluminum, cast iron, copper, brass and bronze systems. Compatible with all antifreezes, including the latest long-life variations.
    
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post #19 of 20
Now if that isn't a copy/paste advertisement ... I don't know what is. yeesh !
post #20 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by ira-k View Post
I used to use Fluid XP for a long time, I got sick of spending that much on it and started using a witch's brew instead..I've been fortunate and never had a leak so I don't know if it would work or not...Snerp a member here used MCT-05 and he said he had a few leaks and it kept his rig from frying...CyberDruid here I believe said his PC Ice had kept his stuff from frying with a couple of leaks...


Scientific proof I have neither for or against...I rely more on people I know and their experience with things...A lot of nay-saying is just BS and a lot of times the praising is just BS....Reviews on the net are un-reliable anymore, they just want free goodies...
Can I buy some brew? No joke.
    
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