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Project: Doppelgänger (but not evil) cube case. - Page 12

post #111 of 134
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by prosser13 View Post
Rep+ for the advice and for all the work you've done

Is it possible to easily bond metal and acrylic without bubbles? If so, you could bond the bottom edge of the acrylic to a strip of metal slightly wider than the edge of the acrylic, and drill two holes down one side and bolt it to the bottom - like what you did, just without the edge going up the side of the acrylic, making it less noticeable...

I think it would be hard not to be inspired by your work
That is some solid methodology. I would need to find an adhesive that would bond solidly to both acrylic and to metal / alu.

...and thanks for that really nice comment. .....

hmmm... I'm taking off in a few minutes, so I will take a gander at what there is out there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nagal View Post
Finished today? WOOT! Cant wait to see it

I am making a trip to Lowes after work so I can see just how rigid acrylic is. Hopefully I will be ordering some tonight so I can get back to work on my case by the end of the week.

I never thought about the air bubbles. I was hoping to glue my case together but will need to experiment with some scrap pieces to see how it looks.
You might be able to see what I am refering to if you take a look at the logs in my sig.

The bubbles are tiny (< 1mm). It is possible to get a near-bubble-less bond, but then one gets the "oozing" issue - too much solvent. And solvent mars any acrylic that it comes into contact with.

Experimentation is the way to go.
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post #112 of 134
Quote:
Originally Posted by Syrillian View Post
The bubbles are tiny (< 1mm). It is possible to get a near-bubble-less bond, but then one gets the "oozing" issue - too much solvent. And solvent mars any acrylic that it comes into contact with.

Experimentation is the way to go.
For inside mounting bubbles that small does not sound bad. Did you ever try putting some tape on the inside seam so it does not ooze?

Either way, experimentation will happen and no, I wont inhale the fumes
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post #113 of 134
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by nagal View Post
For inside mounting bubbles that small does not sound bad. Did you ever try putting some tape on the inside seam so it does not ooze?

Either way, experimentation will happen and no, I wont inhale the fumes
Yah... I tried blue painters tape.... it worked some of the time. Sometimes it would bond the tape so that I needed to scrap it off, that left scratch marks.

...and hey! the fumes are half the fun...and they did not brain my damage.
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post #114 of 134
Thread Starter 
Imho this project has been somewhat of a failure.

The case will work for a LAN box, or for a system that is not overclocked (much). It is simply not large enough to accommodate an interior water cooling setup, nor any large format cooler.

The reason is the height.

12” of vertical space is not enough. That is essentially the bare minimum height that will accommodate 2 x 120mm fans vertically, and allow enough space for all other hardware. There is a possibility that a Freezer Pro (or similar) cooler might fit, but no full Tower Coolers will fit….period.

In the end I have decided to keep this case. Not because I like it, but because I do not like it. The case will simply not accommodate the users’ needs. Specifically, a single 120mm radiator will not mount inside of the case.

I will start Cube 2 in a few weeks based around my colossal mess-ups…. erm… I mean as points to avoid.

That being said…..

Before I get any farther ahead of myself I should show the self-adhesive felt that I used in some areas. This material was cut into strips and applied along the top surfaces of the four Motherboard rails. It was also used on the PSU rails. The felt works fairly well as a low-profile anti-vibration medium under low vibration conditions. Additionally it protects the surface of the object that is resting on it.




Here are the PSU rails:




And the motley crew of fans that I had kicking around doing nothing.



All of those guys are heavy hitters that make an unholy din... good thing I have something to tame the unruly helions with.


Since I will be keeping this and using it as a Linux Folder I now have a use for a Zalman fan controller that has been sitting around. I used one just like this in the Prometheus project and was fairly (note: fairly) pleased with its performance. I tried to sell the controller, but no one wanted it…. poor controller.



Here are the plastic pulls that I used as feet.




In order to mount the PSU and Drive Cage rails I needed to have a “set-screw” application. This was to allow the removal of the cages from the top without having to secure the nut on the underside. This is a pretty straightforward technique: Drill a hole that is 1/32” smaller than the nut; tap nut into hole with a ball-peen hammer.




Here is an image of the PSU and the HDD cage mounted. Note the ghetto Velcro strap that secures the PSU in place.




In order to mount the Zalman fan controller, I needed to make some changes to the drive cage panels. After drilling the holes I mounted the optical drive and the fan controller.




Here are a series of images with the hardware installed, but without the cover.




…and lookee what I have here:

…and applied to the cover: (I cracked one of the edges… repairs later)

I wanted to put it on the interior of the front panel, but at this juncture I am not dismantling anything…perhaps another day.


And some shots of the finished case:




All in all this was a fun project that was broken up be brief intervals of frustration and confusion. In hindsight I realise that it was doomed from the beginning: The inital cuts were too short.

If nothing else, I have a LAN case…now I need some decent hardware to put in it.

I made several mistakes that I will now be able to avoid in the future. In retrospect this was a great learning experience and my antique P4 Folder loves it new home…

Thanks for looking; I appreciate all of the input and interaction.









Yours truly,

S-



Up next is a double-header: Gemini and Cube2
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post #115 of 134
Gutted to hear that it didnt turn out how it should but all in all its still a very impressive build!!!

Like you said, learn from your mistakes and its all just one big learning experience. I Wish I could use acrylic like you :-)

+ REP Right there

Happy modding
    
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post #116 of 134
I know you are not happy with the case but I think it looks awesome!
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post #117 of 134
Here's to failure, then ... without *it*, we'd all be lost!



Great looking case, regardless of your reported shortcomings; Cube2 will be even better I'm sure, should you ever embark upon that path.

(My vision of the future sees you moving on to some other original idea, but then again, my particular vision is oft times skewed; but if Cube2 actually comes along ... I'm sure it'll PWN.)



Great job mang!

When I build my very own, first, custom from-the-ground-up case ... I'll cite you as my inspiration!

    
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post #118 of 134
Thread Starter 
Thanks for comiserating guys...

It really is a very nice case, and I like... it just will not be able to fill the shoes that it was supposed to.

Cube2 is a definitive go, and Gemini has already been designed with most of the details flushed out. I just need to start work...

I'm gonna break for a bit...hah! ..it'll probably be about a week or two and then I will let myself start.
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post #119 of 134
Awesome stuff Syr. Shame it wasn't as you desired. Oh bother, here's looking forward to the next one.

BTW Please comment on what you think of the acryllic design in my log. I'm passing it over to my guy tomorrow, as it's too terribly precise to do mysef.
    
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post #120 of 134
Hmmmm...I know the feeling.

Sometimes it's just best to start again...

RE Bubble Trouble are you using a capillary applicator and medium solvent? there are a number of different solvents...perhaps you will find one with the correct properties.

Although I wrestle with bubbles when fusing I found a few tricks that help...







oh? you wantes to knows???


I use the edge of a fresh utility blade and blade scrape the edge after sanding. I never flame or polish any edge that I want to bond--i simply knock it down till it's true and scrape it.

Never use tape either...I use the weight of the pieces to make the joint seal up...

I think the main part is finding the right solvent and developing a sort of mindless/timeless application technique where the only thing that you are aware of is the flow rate of the solvent...and only fill the applicator 1/3rd full...

Keep then coming...
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