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Iwaki RD-30 - Page 6

post #51 of 81
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ira-k View Post
Put some glycerin and water on the barbs and on the inside of your tubing and try it, once it starts going on don't stop pushing it or it will stick in that spot....You can get glycerin at a drug-store for a cou[ple of bux for a 4 ounce bottle...Or you can try heating up the end of it in some fairly hot but not boiling water and get it on maybe...7/16" is only a 1/16" smaller then the full 1/2" ID ...
People over @ XS recommends 1/2" but one person got it with 7/16" using a heatgun

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...8&postcount=20

Now i have to get some heat gun

I tried boiling water but its no help. Maybe a lighter?

I'm just trying to run the pump with vinegar and RO water for 24hours before i hook up the pump to the main loop
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post #52 of 81
Thread Starter 
I got some Lee's 5/8" ID tubing at work, its a pain to fit it in, so i'll just use 5/8" and hose clamp the thing together. I hope it works and no leak. I'll post results in a bit. I'm taking apart the Liang DCCT now

BTW: I hate waiting for Tygon 1/2"
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post #53 of 81
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikey122687 View Post
I got some Lee's 5/8" ID tubing at work, its a pain to fit it in, so i'll just use 5/8" and hose clamp the thing together. I hope it works and no leak. I'll post results in a bit. I'm taking apart the Liang DCCT now

BTW: I hate waiting for Tygon 1/2"
Man I hope it doesn't blow the 5/8's off......I'd just use the 1/2x3/4" Masterkleer....I don't even like Tygon its expensive and I think it sucks......Its to soft and gummy for me...Good Luck, I'll stop back later and see if it worked...Try the 7/16 with a little dish-soap and water it might slide on...

....1/2x3/4" Masterkleer
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post #54 of 81
Thread Starter 
K up and running, its still trying to get rid of all the bubble though. The flow isn't smooth yet. I clamp the heck of the 5/8" down, no leaks

Running @ around 21-22v right now. I won't measure temp for a while until the res got rid of all the bubbles
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post #55 of 81
Did you check your voltage with a multi-meter? Just wondering if thats as far down as it would go, some will do a little better then the 10% the spec's say...
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post #56 of 81
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ira-k View Post
Did you check your voltage with a multi-meter? Just wondering if thats as far down as it would go, some will do a little better then the 10% the spec's say...
I don't have a multi, i'll find one and let you know
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post #57 of 81
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikey122687 View Post
I don't have a multi, i'll find one and let you know

Thanks...Hey you beat CD to it......Your the first one here that I know of with a RD 30 in your loop...You've got the bragging rights...
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post #58 of 81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ira-k View Post
Thanks...Hey you beat CD to it......Your the first one here that I know of with a RD 30 in your loop...You've got the bragging rights...
true, but its not that important to me anyway. I was never into competition

On a side note: the damn pump is hot, not sexy hot, but temperature hot. It burns my hands

I'm thinking of getting another PA120.2 or .3 for the pump
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post #59 of 81
Oh its sexy hot to......They are only supposed to dump 24W at 18V...Your using the little Yate loon fans aren't you? You might want to put some of these on it instead...I think they are really quiet but some people like using the ultra low cfm fans..The PA.3 is good for around 540W...What are your CPU temp's like?


They are on sale to good high quality fans for cheap...


...Panaflo 86.5CFM

These are a little louder but they are what I use for rad fans..

...Sunon KDE1212PMB1-6A

...115cfm Panaflo
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post #60 of 81
Thread Starter 
But you always recommend low CFM for Thermochill?

Its around 49C idles on 4 cores @ 3.0Ghz with 1.35vcore. Load is like 63C with 4 instant primes 95
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