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post #641 of 753
Quote:
Originally Posted by ira-k View Post
A all aluminium loop would be fine, aluminium just has a lousy C/W as compared to copper.

This is for cold plate thickness and materials but its also pretty good run down on heat transfers.. Cold Plate Materials and Thickness-Bill Adams
Cool info as always, Ira-K! Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChielScape View Post
yeah, copper has about twice the heat transfer coefficient compared to aluminum. but aluminum is fine really... if you need a rad for all aluminum loops... check out koolance if you dont want to mess around with car radiators. should do great for less critical loops. i think aluminum should do fine on graphics cards, and even more so on "peripheral" parts as MOSFETs chipsets, RAM, etc.
Thanks ChielScape!
I know I'd lose some of the cooling efficiency with alum, but for a cheap beginner (both WC and machining) it's great to know I have the option!

Quote:
Originally Posted by CyberDruid View Post
About aluminum barbs just use a tubing beader (Parker Tool) on the actual tube. That's how they do it in on airplanes and yachts. Not an inexpensive tool...and then there are Ferrules (available in aluminum) http://www.discounthydraulichose.com...rules_s/88.htm that slip over the hose once it is slipped over the beaded aluminum tube and then crimped using yet another not inexpensive tool...http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/product_p/855.htm

So for about $500 you are all tooled up to make a nice hydraulic connection that could withstand several hundred PSI
Wow, that's a bit more than I'd want to spend, but interesting and useful info. I've bookmarked that link, as its got all kinds of interesting fittings there! Thanks CD! I was thinking of just turning the nozzles on a lathe, assuming I can. Drawbacks?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Herc130 View Post
Koolance makes these pipe fittings

http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...product_id=835

Don't even have to flare the end, just slip the female end on, then the ferrule and then tighten down on the "swiviling" G1/4 end and I am assuming by swiviling, they mean it is a rotary. One of two places I can buy that ATM, PPC...which I am not buying from again...and Koolance, which wants over $50 to ship 10 of those to me.

Also, maybe you're interested in how your block performs compared to a standard and you want more info on what it's dong besides load temp, idle temps read off the mobo info. I mean, if you're making a "prototype" out of aluminum, maybe you might want info like how your block affects flow, the temp of the water going into and out of the block....becaus how do you know what to change based on load and idle temps?

I got myself 4 BP temp probs, a fan contorller with 4 temperture indicators that can go from -9c to ...whatever (forgot...but remember -9 because most of them do not read below 0c, but this one does), a couple quick disconnect fittings to make it easy to swap out CPU blocks and a flow meter

That cost me about $270ish ( I already have all the T fittings needed for the temp probs) and will allow me to see how restrictive my block is compared to some commercial blocks I have, 4 different temp readings around my cpu loop and the ability to swap cpu blocks with little fuss. Can go with a much less expensive flowmeter I am sure. The one in pic cost me $165 at mcmaster-carr. There is a 5GPM, 3" scale on ebay right now for $20. A little less accurate, but still pretty useful. There are some other tools I can get, but it starts to become much more expensive and I decided these were all the testing tools I really needed. Anyone think of more?
Thanks Herc, I'm very interested in being able to test and improve, and that info is very helpful! Yeah the expensive part is a stopper for me. (after all, I can probably outfit myself with a nice commercial loop for the money it costs for the stuff you and CD have let me know about! )

Two things about those Koolance fittings: 1) it looks like they're brass (nickel plated) Will that be a problem in alum with corrosion? 2) the ad states that they include a 1-time use thingamajig... that sounds like an expensive replacement part!

Have a round of rep on me!
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post #642 of 753
I've been buying off-cut peices of copper from here

http://shop.ebay.com/merchant/pbtool...Q_fromZQQ_ipgZ

They/he are not an ebay store really, more likely a factory that makes stuff using copper. They don't always have stuff for sale. When they do, it's usually copper plates in .25", .375" and .5" thickness and 3" to 6" wide and 4" to 11" long....and at really low prices. Just bought out their .5" plates, one was 6"x6" and other was 4"x5". The 6x6 was $22....at mcmaster that would have been $50+. The 4x5 was like $9 and is enough to make a couple base plates out of. Aluminum is cheaper, but compared to the prices I am getting at that place, I am experimenting on dsigns with copper

He's only got 2 copper bars left..both 3/8" thick and 4"x whatever, but both are pretty cheap considering and plenty big enough to make a few blocks out of. Sure he'll put up a few .25" thick ones soon too. As far as I can tell by eye and the fact he has em in thickness and width mcmaster's sells, it's exactly like the mcmaster's copper 110 alloy.
post #643 of 753
Two things about those Koolance fittings: 1) it looks like they're brass (nickel plated) Will that be a problem in alum with corrosion? 2) the ad states that they include a 1-time use thingamajig... that sounds like an expensive replacement part!

Corrosion should not be a problem in a system that will see frequent water changes
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post #644 of 753
The one time use part is the crushable ferrule which is what actually makes the seal. That part is .69 cents and you can buy extra from koolance and probably many hardware stores as well....for probably .30 cents. The fitting is brass and nickle plated and I wouldn't worry about corrosion with aluminum, but I would recommend you just make your blocks out of copper for a few $$ more....cause really, it's just a few $$ more.
post #645 of 753
I thought about goning with an all aluminum loop just so I could use an automotive 134a a/c condenser coil, they are not of the single pass design like the r-12 units(i.e. 1 continueus loop) but are multi path and effiant but constructed of Aluminum.
They are also not cheap and hard to get clean
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post #646 of 753
New question for you Blockheads!

Can anyone tell me IHS dimensions (the exposed top of the CPU, i mean) for various CPU sockets? (or link to where I could find that info myself?) I'm guessing that I can make a one size fits all, since so many block mfrs have different mounts for different socket sizes, but use the same block.
Main thing here is 939 and 775 sockets for me, GFX card info also helpful (275 FTW + 7950)

Machine shop class has started!
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post #647 of 753
grab a pair of verniers, get yourself started, i'd say.
post #648 of 753
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChielScape View Post
grab a pair of verniers, get yourself started, i'd say.
Yeah, you've got a point. I just don't want to have to dismantle everything and lug a motherboard down to the machine shop. :sigh:

I'd found intel specs for the qx9650 I have to be a package size of 37.5mm x 37.5mm... but I think I have to consider the cpu holddown bracket dimensions.
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post #649 of 753
iirc the 775 IHS size is 30x30mm. but i dont have an IHS on my spare chip anymore.

and i think i heard of it being 35 for i7.. not sure
post #650 of 753
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChielScape View Post
iirc the 775 IHS size is 30x30mm. but i dont have an IHS on my spare chip anymore.

and i think i heard of it being 35 for i7.. not sure
Cool, thanks!
I think what I'm going to do today is bring the existing cpu block I have (apogee gtx) down to the shop, and see if I can get the teacher to let me use some calipers (we haven't gotten to measuring tools just yet, but that may be on the agenda for today.) I'll measure the block base itself!.
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