Overclock.net › Forums › Intel › Intel Motherboards › Gigabyte GA-P35-DS3L Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Gigabyte GA-P35-DS3L Thread - Page 269

post #2681 of 4644
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyxp64 View Post
Gauvenator: just to make it clear, i was talking to specif mobo above that uses the latest mofset technology that keeps them more cool,
now, about the northbridge sencor, there is one, But i dont now if its in the north briedge it has to be very close to it cause when you se the "system Temp" in the Bios this is about 40+ degrees so it has to bee very close to NB.and its not like a cooler extra sensor it has to be onboard so we cant easy spot it.
also if you changes cooling system into the motherboard, (i sujest try to not Overvoltage thinks when overclock, you may achive what 10-20% more power, its not healthy for the system, a NB isnt as a CPU that can handle for few months 0.1-0.4v+ more power its very sensitive the NB and if it Burns out you are finished! So try not to remove the Cooling system, or At least keep the original safe in a place and change it VERY cerefully with a 100% compatible one, that doesnt need, to "stuck" over the cheep, and can be replaced in the future with the original if you have the need to use the warranty! otherwise they will not make use of your warranty 99%.


Guide_Timothy: i had a 650i from MSI and when i bought my Q6600 and tried to overcloack, well yes was not that friendly as its the new 750i!
my current Mobo (GA-P35-DS3 rev2.1) using bios F12, kick ass in overclocking friendly!

ok here is an analysis:
q6600 stock speeds - stock cooler - airfloating in the case with 5vfans- idle temp 48-50/maximum temp 66

q6600 3.00ghz - stock cooler ....bla bla bla idle:55-58 / max: 70+

q6600 3.00ghz - Zalman
9700 LED for Intel - Amd (http://www.plaisio.gr/product.aspx?c...product=891827) difficult in installation if the board its allready in the case you have to remove it, and make sure the back will not "curb" from the scruing, and there is something (like a fat piece of paper) to protect it from touching by accident the case tetal back, if any (this case is the best with out the back and very very cheap)THERMALTAKE VG8000BNS WING RS 101 BLACK (http://www.e-shop.gr/show_per.phtml?id=PER.650633)

bla bla bla idle temp 40-42 / max 55-57 and VERY quit voltage of the fan at 7v !!!!!! (summer time)

so the answer is to get 3.0ghz you Just change the CPU fsb to 333x9 multiplier and manuall always set the PCIx at 100mhz and keep the memmory by using a ration 3:2 or what ever at there difault speed 800/or 1066mhz whet ever RAM you have, overcloacking the RAM its the difficult part and that where the System restart / BSOD etc etc, LEAVE the Voltages ang Timings of CPU and RAM UNCHANGED! the 3.0ghz its a peach of cake for this mobo and there is no fear at all! even with the stock cooler! and you can leav the SmartFAN on, i dont have problem with the rev2.1.


BUT all of you REMEBER overclong MORE than 25% - 30% and having a STABLE system for a while, doesnt mean the CPU and the Other RAM or NB chipsetts are not harmed internally!!!
silicon contacts are starting to melt and may touch on its other ofter months of use.thisis nannotechnology we are actually talking about, therei not enough space beetween anything in a cpu, or a NB.
nothing is for sure. untill 3.0 from 2.4 its not an overcloacking its a walk in the park and harmmless, enything else above that starts to reduce lifecycle and will burn the CPU or make it not work in other speeds EVER again! i have seem many CPU OVER OVERcloacked and then they where behiving very strangly to other systems, not booting, not working at full stock speed, or worst couldent downclock

goodluck and allways dont Over do it! ex 2.4ghz to 3.7+ because we are using water cooling, so what? the front size buss can be damaged even in low temps!! ;-)
once more in english? I've heard people like this saying my AMD Athlon XP 1700+(1.467ghz) at 2.5ghz was going to die in a couple months. Meanwhile 5 years later it's still my server PC... on a microATX motherboard with wires in the socket to overclock. What exactly are you trying to say?
My System
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
E8200 GA-P35-DSL3 ASUS TOP 9600GT G.Skill PC2-8500 (2x1gb) 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
250GB Seagate Barracuda 7200.9 SataII LITE-ON DVDRW SHW-1 XP 4lyfe KDS 26" WS @ 1920x1200 
Power
Antec Neo Power 430W Modular 
  hide details  
Reply
My System
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
E8200 GA-P35-DSL3 ASUS TOP 9600GT G.Skill PC2-8500 (2x1gb) 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
250GB Seagate Barracuda 7200.9 SataII LITE-ON DVDRW SHW-1 XP 4lyfe KDS 26" WS @ 1920x1200 
Power
Antec Neo Power 430W Modular 
  hide details  
Reply
post #2682 of 4644
nobody said its going to DIE man, just that you have no idea if your CPU has been damaged inside and other function in other boards will not work when you remove it from this one!

CPU+Mobo+RAM are like human parts in a sench, they may work great together all over from the begging BUT sometimes something is not 100% compatible with the other and starts a chain reaction, or all those together doesnt perform to their maximum abilities!

damaging the parts after Extream overcloacking its a 50% possibility at least!
your 1.5gh > 2.5 IS NOT Extream its in the limits...the method you used IS extream and something could have gone very Wrong right?

i wish the best to your pc and you, and leave for an other 5years at least. ;-) (i mean the pc, you longer )
Edited by johnnyxp64 - 6/4/08 at 3:08am
Primary PC
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core2Quad Q6600 3.0Ghz GA-P35-DS3 rev2.1 SAPPHIRE RADEON TOXIC HD4850 512MB DDR3(oc) 4Gbyte Kingstone HyperX 1066Mhz 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
250GB SATA2 Stripe RAID (500GB) NEC DVD-RW Windows 7 X64 SP1 Philips 190cw DVI 19' 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Microsoft 103 ps2 700Watt Midi-Black Logitech MX1100 
  hide details  
Reply
Primary PC
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core2Quad Q6600 3.0Ghz GA-P35-DS3 rev2.1 SAPPHIRE RADEON TOXIC HD4850 512MB DDR3(oc) 4Gbyte Kingstone HyperX 1066Mhz 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
250GB SATA2 Stripe RAID (500GB) NEC DVD-RW Windows 7 X64 SP1 Philips 190cw DVI 19' 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Microsoft 103 ps2 700Watt Midi-Black Logitech MX1100 
  hide details  
Reply
post #2683 of 4644
Mmkay... Just finished putting together my new computer. Figured out there's no onboard sound so I need to go buy a soundcard. But my problem is this: I plug an ethernet cable from my wireless router into the back of the computer, and nothing happens. No signals found, no nothing. Acts like nothing's plugged in. Settings are for autodetect, checked everything in the control panel I could find. Went into BIOS, claimed there was a cable plugged in with a 100mbps speed.. told it to boot ROM from chip, didn't help. Anyone know what I'm doing wrong?

I know it's not a problem with the cable or the network, because it works fine on my other two computers. And the green lights turn on when I plug the cable into the back of the computer.

Also, I can't get the HDD LEDs on the front of my computer to work. I've got a RAIDMAX Scorpio 868 case, and I plugged the line reading "H.D.D. LED" into the top two pins marked "POWER_LED". Top as in farthest left here ..::::: .... was this wrong? Or is this a problem with the case?
post #2684 of 4644
Quote:
Originally Posted by evilevildead View Post
Mmkay... Just finished putting together my new computer. Figured out there's no onboard sound so I need to go buy a soundcard. But my problem is this: I plug an ethernet cable from my wireless router into the back of the computer, and nothing happens. No signals found, no nothing. Acts like nothing's plugged in. Settings are for autodetect, checked everything in the control panel I could find. Went into BIOS, claimed there was a cable plugged in with a 100mbps speed.. told it to boot ROM from chip, didn't help. Anyone know what I'm doing wrong?

I know it's not a problem with the cable or the network, because it works fine on my other two computers. And the green lights turn on when I plug the cable into the back of the computer.

Also, I can't get the HDD LEDs on the front of my computer to work. I've got a RAIDMAX Scorpio 868 case, and I plugged the line reading "H.D.D. LED" into the top two pins marked "POWER_LED". Top as in farthest left here ..::::: .... was this wrong? Or is this a problem with the case?
Did you install the drivers for the audio and Ethernet?

As for your HDD LED, try reversing the wires because the polarity might make a difference.
HTPC
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i3 2120T Gigabyte Z68XP-UD3 i3 HD2000 8gb Kingston HyperX Blu 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
9.5 TB Storage Samsung BD-ROM Windows 7 Prof 47in LG LCD 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
I/O Gear Wireless 500W FSP CM690 Dell M2010 Remote 
  hide details  
Reply
HTPC
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i3 2120T Gigabyte Z68XP-UD3 i3 HD2000 8gb Kingston HyperX Blu 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
9.5 TB Storage Samsung BD-ROM Windows 7 Prof 47in LG LCD 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
I/O Gear Wireless 500W FSP CM690 Dell M2010 Remote 
  hide details  
Reply
post #2685 of 4644
It does have sound and net, but you got to install the drivers.
Sound is realtec I think and the Nforce drivers should do the net. (or something)
Then go to MS updates and get the rest.
 
Folding for coinz
(14 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 3930K EVGA Z79 Dark Asus HD7850 samsung 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Team XS3 SSD Got one Noctua u140 Have one too. Win7 for now 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Acer p234w Mechanical Today its a Fractal Fractal Arc XL 
MouseMouse PadAudioOther
1 or 2 of them Cherry Some speekers Logitech 800 bluetooth/RF headset 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
xeon 1230 v3 Asrock Z87e itx powercolor r9 290 Changes like socks 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
m500 ssd no! ah, soon Vista Home Prem 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
no keycool LED Rosewill 500w passive Bitpenix phenom 
MouseMouse Pad
no tesoro 
  hide details  
Reply
 
Folding for coinz
(14 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 3930K EVGA Z79 Dark Asus HD7850 samsung 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Team XS3 SSD Got one Noctua u140 Have one too. Win7 for now 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Acer p234w Mechanical Today its a Fractal Fractal Arc XL 
MouseMouse PadAudioOther
1 or 2 of them Cherry Some speekers Logitech 800 bluetooth/RF headset 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
xeon 1230 v3 Asrock Z87e itx powercolor r9 290 Changes like socks 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
m500 ssd no! ah, soon Vista Home Prem 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
no keycool LED Rosewill 500w passive Bitpenix phenom 
MouseMouse Pad
no tesoro 
  hide details  
Reply
post #2686 of 4644
Hey I dont wanna sound late to the party but I have this board, with a e6600 w/ (gigabyte g power fan), 4 gigs of ddr2 6400, and a Visiontek HD3870 OC 512(The best buy special). I would like to know what are some good settings to oc it with in the bios. I got it up to 2.66ghz from the stock 2.4 but I dont know if the settings I stumbled upon are good. Ideas? I am also running XP
post #2687 of 4644
Oh geez.
No, I didn't install the drivers...

Reversing the wires, like plugging it in facing the other direction? I tried that, but it still didn't work.
post #2688 of 4644
Quote:
Originally Posted by evilevildead View Post

Also, I can't get the HDD LEDs on the front of my computer to work. I've got a RAIDMAX Scorpio 868 case, and I plugged the line reading "H.D.D. LED" into the top two pins marked "POWER_LED". Top as in farthest left here ..::::: .... was this wrong? Or is this a problem with the case?
You have the H.D.D. LED plugged into the wrong one. The POWER LED is for the power on light (usually green). The H.D.D. LED connectors are on the bottom row if I can remenber correctly.
E8400 @ 4.0GHz
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
E8400 GA-P35-DS3L GeForce 8400GS CORSAIR XMS2 4GB 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSPower
Maxtor and Seagate Lite-On and Samsung "Multi-booting" Xp-64, Xp-Pro, Vista Ultimate Lite Corsair TX750W 
Case
Antec SLK3700AMB 
  hide details  
Reply
E8400 @ 4.0GHz
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
E8400 GA-P35-DS3L GeForce 8400GS CORSAIR XMS2 4GB 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSPower
Maxtor and Seagate Lite-On and Samsung "Multi-booting" Xp-64, Xp-Pro, Vista Ultimate Lite Corsair TX750W 
Case
Antec SLK3700AMB 
  hide details  
Reply
post #2689 of 4644
Quote:
Originally Posted by technogeek View Post
You have the H.D.D. LED plugged into the wrong one. The POWER LED is for the power on light (usually green). The H.D.D. LED connectors are on the bottom row if I can remenber correctly.
Thanks, that worked! The H.D.D. lights come on now, but the POWER LED cord is too short, it only reaches halfway from the front of the case to the motherboard. Hmm.
post #2690 of 4644
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyxp64 View Post
Gauvenator: just to make it clear, i was talking to specif mobo above that uses the latest mofset technology that keeps them more cool,
now, about the northbridge sencor, there is one, But i dont now if its in the north briedge it has to be very close to it cause when you se the "system Temp" in the Bios this is about 40+ degrees so it has to bee very close to NB.and its not like a cooler extra sensor it has to be onboard so we cant easy spot it.
also if you changes cooling system into the motherboard, (i sujest try to not Overvoltage thinks when overclock, you may achive what 10-20% more power, its not healthy for the system, a NB isnt as a CPU that can handle for few months 0.1-0.4v+ more power its very sensitive the NB and if it Burns out you are finished! So try not to remove the Cooling system, or At least keep the original safe in a place and change it VERY cerefully with a 100% compatible one, that doesnt need, to "stuck" over the cheep, and can be replaced in the future with the original if you have the need to use the warranty! otherwise they will not make use of your warranty 99%.


Guide_Timothy: i had a 650i from MSI and when i bought my Q6600 and tried to overcloack, well yes was not that friendly as its the new 750i!
my current Mobo (GA-P35-DS3 rev2.1) using bios F12, kick ass in overclocking friendly!

ok here is an analysis:
q6600 stock speeds - stock cooler - airfloating in the case with 5vfans- idle temp 48-50/maximum temp 66

q6600 3.00ghz - stock cooler ....bla bla bla idle:55-58 / max: 70+

q6600 3.00ghz - Zalman
9700 LED for Intel - Amd (http://www.plaisio.gr/product.aspx?c...product=891827) difficult in installation if the board its allready in the case you have to remove it, and make sure the back will not "curb" from the scruing, and there is something (like a fat piece of paper) to protect it from touching by accident the case tetal back, if any (this case is the best with out the back and very very cheap)THERMALTAKE VG8000BNS WING RS 101 BLACK (http://www.e-shop.gr/show_per.phtml?id=PER.650633)

bla bla bla idle temp 40-42 / max 55-57 and VERY quit voltage of the fan at 7v !!!!!! (summer time)

so the answer is to get 3.0ghz you Just change the CPU fsb to 333x9 multiplier and manuall always set the PCIx at 100mhz and keep the memmory by using a ration 3:2 or what ever at there difault speed 800/or 1066mhz whet ever RAM you have, overcloacking the RAM its the difficult part and that where the System restart / BSOD etc etc, LEAVE the Voltages ang Timings of CPU and RAM UNCHANGED! the 3.0ghz its a peach of cake for this mobo and there is no fear at all! even with the stock cooler! and you can leav the SmartFAN on, i dont have problem with the rev2.1.


BUT all of you REMEBER overclong MORE than 25% - 30% and having a STABLE system for a while, doesnt mean the CPU and the Other RAM or NB chipsetts are not harmed internally!!!
silicon contacts are starting to melt and may touch on its other ofter months of use.thisis nannotechnology we are actually talking about, therei not enough space beetween anything in a cpu, or a NB.
nothing is for sure. untill 3.0 from 2.4 its not an overcloacking its a walk in the park and harmmless, enything else above that starts to reduce lifecycle and will burn the CPU or make it not work in other speeds EVER again! i have seem many CPU OVER OVERcloacked and then they where behiving very strangly to other systems, not booting, not working at full stock speed, or worst couldent downclock

goodluck and allways dont Over do it! ex 2.4ghz to 3.7+ because we are using water cooling, so what? the front size buss can be damaged even in low temps!! ;-)
what is the stock voltage on this mobo's nb? Or is one of the ones that in the BIOS you just set +0.1, +0.2, etc?

Oh yah and when I get it, what stuff do I need to enable/disable in the bios (other than what's in the first post?)
WC ftw!
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
C2D E7200 @ 3.51ghz 1.17v Lapped Gigabyte EP35-DS3L, HR-05 on nb Palit 8800gt 8gb G.Skill @ 1000mhz 2.1v 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
2x7200.12 500gb RAID, 2xWD5000AAKS Asus DRW-1814BLT SATA CLFSx64, W7x64 SCEPTRE 22" 1680x1050 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech Media Corsair HX520 Modular Antec P182 Gunmetal Logitech G7 Laser Cordless 
Mouse Pad
none 
  hide details  
Reply
WC ftw!
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
C2D E7200 @ 3.51ghz 1.17v Lapped Gigabyte EP35-DS3L, HR-05 on nb Palit 8800gt 8gb G.Skill @ 1000mhz 2.1v 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
2x7200.12 500gb RAID, 2xWD5000AAKS Asus DRW-1814BLT SATA CLFSx64, W7x64 SCEPTRE 22" 1680x1050 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech Media Corsair HX520 Modular Antec P182 Gunmetal Logitech G7 Laser Cordless 
Mouse Pad
none 
  hide details  
Reply
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Intel Motherboards
Overclock.net › Forums › Intel › Intel Motherboards › Gigabyte GA-P35-DS3L Thread