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Air cooled chiller - aka the fevered dream of a mad man. - Page 6

post #51 of 145
well how far is it spanning ?
post #52 of 145
Thread Starter 
Across a 40mm square peltier then plus a bit for room for the bolts. So, lets say 60mm by 40-60mm (depending on the shape of the cold plate).
post #53 of 145
i would say 4 or 5 mm no less than 3 thats my opinion
post #54 of 145
Thread Starter 
Ok. I can get some 3.25mm stuff thats not too expensive. Thicker than that it starts to get get very pricey. I cant think of any better way of getting round this pressure issue though.

Also, whats the difference likely to be between a 60x60mm square cold plate against a rectangular 40x60mm one (in terms of how evenly applied the pressure is etc).
post #55 of 145
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scarlet Infidel View Post

Edit: wait a second, are you suggesting cooling the air that cools the heatsinks? Please elaborate and show me some examples of what you mean.


If constructed as depicted I believe most of the moisture in the airstream will return to the catch basin.

The picture is your unit as seen on end in a cross section. 3/4" alu/or Cu block drilled for several lines (single pass) with drillings to accomodate studs for clamping the Heatsionks to the pelts.

Shrouds attached to face of heatsink with captive fan and wick material at the inlet.

A supply line wets the pleated filter wick (although these could simply be dipped in the basin) with the run off being ecycled.

Air is drawn through the damp pleated filter which will chill it considerably (and dampen the fan noise) forced into the rows of 5 sinks on each side and and expelled through the sides of the sinks up and down,

A shield keeps the warm air from warming the water in the basin.

Extended panels (with limber holes) from the shroud support the assembly in the basin(could be all acrylic and fused to make it rigid and mobile).

I did not want to further clutter the drawinf: but a vented cover could easily fit over the entire assembly and keep the humdity localized inside the unit which would also minimize topping up the basin.

As I mentioned the pleated filter couls be wet from the bottom by simply resting in the basin and wicking the ater up...eliminating more expense plumbing the evap supply.

If you keep the unit fairly self contained and build it so as to localize the humidity issue I think it would be a good way to get a lower ambient for the heatsink airflow.
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post #56 of 145
Thread Starter 
Thanks for taking the time to draw the picture. It really helps me understand what you mean. Its certainly an interesting idea. I'll need to think about it, im not sure if i want to take this route for this project, but maybe in the future.
post #57 of 145
well i assume with the 60x40 .. you'll only have screws on the ends so that will be worse for bowing .. than 60x60
lets say your using 4mm screws .. i would tape the hot side so the screws can screw into it . on the cold side i would drill like a 5mm hole for them to go though and put some plastic or wood under the heads to stop heat/ cold being transfered along the screws which decreases the efficencey
post #58 of 145
Thread Starter 
Ok, I should be able to get enough copper to make ten 60x60mm cold plates that are 3.25mm thick (hope this is thick enough) for £10. Seems like a large chunk of my budget but I cant yet see a good way around it (got a few bad ways around it to test).

And yes, I will isolate the hot side from the cold side. I've seen a number of people get that bit wrong. Even on my test rig I could feel the heat making its way through the metal bolts to the cold side.
post #59 of 145
Try a Little "Liquid Electrical Tape" under the screw/bolt heads to isolate them, thats what I use and it works pretty well...It comes in a little can with a applicator brush built into the cap...Its like $5 bux a can here and it wont hurt your PCB's if it comes into contact with it,I use it on my mobo sometimes...
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post #60 of 145
Thread Starter 
Just an update. Id been planning to do most of this project over christmas but have had other things to do. Now im going back to university where ill have very little spare time and more importantly very few tools.

On the plus side, I should have some copper coming my way next week for the cold side of the peltiers. Ive made up another little test system from bits ive had lying around. Ive seen for myself now that pressure is definately key.

In my first test with this new system I was getting water temperatures 2c under ambient with one peltier unit (basic aluminium maze waterblock, peltier and heatsink). That was with the fan on low. The peltier was at 3.11V drawing 2.6A which is a tad over 8w overall. I have estimated using testing that the pump is putting 18-20w of heat into the water.

There is a lot to improve on here; more pressure, insulation, tweaking fan speeds and peltier voltages, using copper on the cold side instead of aluminium. But it think it shows that the project is workable.

To clarify, as it stands if it scaled up perfectly you'd have a system drawing 80w able to keep 180-200w at 2c below ambient.


Edit: thinking about that again, at the time i wasnt pleased with the results, but now i think its really impressive. I hope i find a way of carrying on with this at university without having to wait till easter.
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