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PSU sleeving guide.

post #1 of 119
Thread Starter 
PSU Sleeving Guide.

Everyone has a case that are proud to show off, but when someone looks inside, the first thing they see is a big tangled up pile of wires coming from the PSU (Power Supply Unit)!! We are going to fix that by applying a nylon woven sleeve to the wires. I hope after you finish this guide, you will have a nice organized, sleeved PSU, that your friends will jealous of.


I do not take any responsibility if you get hurt or your PSU is damaged. This does VOID your warranty. DO AT YOUR OWN RISK!


Note: I do not take very good pictures, because of my nerves, I tried my best! If you noticed that some of the connectors are different colors, it’s because when I was sleeving mine I forgot to take some off the pictures, so I had to take some pics of my old PSU.


Here is what you are going to need:

· A very, very small flat head screwdriver, like an eyeglass screwdriver.

· Universal Molex Pin Remover or any very thin and stiff, trust me it is a lot easier with the Molex remover.

· ATX Connector/12v P4 Connector Removal Tool. , or any very, very thin and stiff, I used two small staples

· ¼†sleeving. ½†sleeving, 2’ of 9mm heat shrink tubing, 3†of 25mm heat shrink tubing. All the colors are up to you. I used an all in one Vantec sleeving kit from newegg.com.

A word of CAUTION: The PSU does retain some voltage after cutting it off, it is recommended to either press the on/off button several times after you turn your computer off or by using a jumper wire from the PS-ON (green wire) to a black common wire as in the picture below. I also verified that there was no voltage by using a Multi-meter.


Just for argument sakes, I plugged in the PSU, turned it on by using the jumper wire I mentioned above, let it run for a minute, then removed the jumper and unplugged it. When I unplugged it I replaced the jumper wire to turn back on, unplugged, and the fans cut back on for about 1 second. As you can see, it does retain the voltage.


This is what we are starting with. It’s a “Antec True430†PSU



Before we start, I have to clear up a few things. Some people sleeve the wire all the way up and into the PSU. This does look a lot better, but that means you will have to open the PSU. If you are not comfortable with working inside the PSU, then stop the sleeve where the wires go into the PSU. I stopped mine at the PSU because of 2 reasons: I am too lazy, and when I took the cover off I found it to have very, very tight quarters. Plus there wasn’t any way I was going to be able to fit the sleeves and all the wires through the hole in the PSU.


Next step: Standard 4 pin Molex/floppy Molex wires


The first set of wires we are going to sleeve is one of the standard 4 pin Molex and floppy drive Molex combination wires. Start by cutting off the Tie wraps holding the wires together. Now start removing the Molex connectors.


4 pin Molex plug:



Before removing any of the wires, make a note of the order in which the wires go in. Now take the Universal Molex Pin Remover and insert it into the hole sliding over the female pin, while pushing the remover over the pin you can hear a slight click as the clips compress. Once you have the remover seated over the pin depress the plunger and out pops the wire.


Note: If you have a hard time getting the wire out, wiggling the remover and slightly tug on the wire. Do not force the wire out, the pins can break easy.


Note: Take note of how this pins looks and how it works, the P4 ATX and the 20 pin connectors use the same kind of pin. This will come in handy when you work with them.


After you have the Molex off go on to the next one.


Floppy drive power connector:



Before removing any of the wires, make a note of the order in which the wires go in. To remove the pins on the floppy connector, use a very small flat head screwdriver and place in the open slot on top of the connector. Press down slightly and depress the clip and gently pull out the wire.


Note: If the wire will not pull out, try pushing the wire further into the connector and then depress the clip. Sometimes the clips will get hung on the connector and cause them to bind.


Here is what you will have after all the Molex plugs are off.



Now that we have all of the Molex connectors off, it’s time to start sleeving. Start by measuring the length from the PSU to the first Molex. Now cut a piece of the ¼†sleeving and cut to the length you previously recorded. After cutting the sleeve, use a lighter to singe the ends of the sleeve so that it doesn’t start to unravel on you.


To make things easier, you will have to bend pins back against wires, as in the picture below, so the sleeve will slide over them easily.



Note: It will work a lot better if you can wrap the pins in some tape or something so that they don’t snag on the sleeve when you slide it over them


Expand the sleeve, and insert the wires.

I used a Screwdriver to help expand the sleeving.



You will have to use an inchworm type movement while sliding the sleeving over the wires. Start by pushing the sleeve on to wire until it bunches up then pull out the slack with the other hand and work your way all the way up the wires. Push – Pull – Push – Pull – Push – Pull.


Once you have the sleeving where you want it, cut two 1†pieces of the 9mm heat shrink (one for each end) and slide them over the sleeving. You want the heat shrink to cover ½†of the sleeving and ½†of the wires.


Use a lighter, hairdryer, or heat gun and heat the heat shrink until it has completely shrunk around everything. Once it stops shrinking take the heat off of it. Be careful not to get to close to the sleeving because it will melt a hole in it. Trust me I found out the hard way.


Once you have both ends done, remove the tape if you used it and push the pins back into the Molex connector. Be sure to place the pins in the correct order. Refer to the picture below if you forgot.



Now start on the next section of wire. Use the same method as above. Continue this until you are finished. The finished product will look like this; well it will probably look better than this because you took your time right!!! I didn’t, I’m impatient.




Next step: P4 ATX power wire


The next set of wires we are going to sleeve is the P4 ATX power wire.



Before removing any of the wires, make a note of the order in which the wires go in. I used some tape and numbered each wire.


This connector is a little trickier than the standard Molex plugs. It’s the same type pin but you don’t have round hole, its square. For this you need to use an ATX Connector/12v P4 Connector Removal Tool. If you are as cheap as I am you can use two small staples or anything stiff and real thin to compress the clips (Yes it does hurt your fingers after a while). First make sure you label the wires before you remove them so there isn’t any confusion when you put them back in. Insert the ATX Connector/12v P4 Connector Removal Tool (or staples) and compress the clips on the pin and pull the wire out.


Note: If the wire will not pull out, try pushing the wire further into the connector and then depress the clip. Sometimes the clips will get hung on the connector and cause them to bind.


Now once you have the connector off, measure the wire and cut the amount of ¼†sleeve you will need. Using the same method you used with the with the standard 4 pin Molex and floppy drive Molex combination wires, start sliding on the sleeve and heat shrink, etc. Making sure you have the wires in the correct placement, replace the connector. And presto change-o Ã*





Nest step: 6 pin Auxiliary power connector


Now we can start on the 6 pin Auxiliary power connector. This is done by using a 6-Pin Auxiliary Removal Tool; I used the very, very small screwdriver. First make sure you label the wires before you remove them so there isn’t any confusion when you put them back in.


Insert whichever tool you decide to use into the smallest hole to depress the clip, now gently pull the wire out.



After the wires are loose you can sleeve it using the same methods as before with the ¼†sleeving and 9mm heat shrink.



Nest step: 20-pin ATX power cable


Now for the big boy, the 20-pin ATX power cable. Yes, this is the hardest one of all; well at least it was for me.


VERY Important note: Make sure you label these wires. If you get any of them mixed up, it would be very hard to get them back in order!!!!



We will be using the same tool for this as we did for the P4 ATX connector, ATX Connector/12v P4 Connector Removal Tool. , I used the good old staples again (I regretted it afterwards, ooouch!). Go ahead and remove them one by one by one by one until all 20 of them are out, remember to label them as you pull them out!

Here is how I did it with the staples




Note: If the wire will not pull out, try pushing the wire further into the connector and then depress the clip. Sometimes the clips will get hung on the connector and cause them to bind.


After you have all the wires loose from the connector, go ahead and measure and cut some ½†sleeving. Tape everything up, slide on the sleeving and two 1†pieces of 25mm heat shrink, shrink it down, and replace the connector.




Next step: Final Step!!!!


Here is a finished picture of all the hard work we did.


Put the PSU back in the computer, sit down, drink you a cold one, and enjoy.


The only thing I didn’t cover was the ATA power cables. I didn’t se any way to get the connector off. You might be able to get some real big sleeving and stretch it over the connectors.


Thanks, for checking out my PSU sleeving guide!! If you have any questions, suggestions, or if you notice anything wrong, feel free to email me at archer_456@yahoo.com or stop by the forums at Overclock.net. and post it.
My System
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CPUMotherboardOSMonitor
AMD X2 3800+ Gigabyte K8U-939 Windows XP Home Samsung SyncMaster 930B 
PowerCase
Antec True430 X-Dreamer I 
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post #2 of 119
SWEET guide Archer! Thats awesome! Admin is gonna love it I think! Great pics too! No questions left when reading this guide...

8 thumbs up! (seaskull and dilbert- New York Times) lol, sorry, dont know where that came from.
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post #3 of 119
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xavier1421
SWEET guide Archer! Thats awesome! Admin is gonna love it I think! Great pics too! No questions left when reading this guide...

8 thumbs up! (seaskull and dilbert- New York Times) lol, sorry, dont know where that came from.
Thanks, i'll tell you one thing, my hands hurt like @#$$ after doing it.
My System
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CPUMotherboardOSMonitor
AMD X2 3800+ Gigabyte K8U-939 Windows XP Home Samsung SyncMaster 930B 
PowerCase
Antec True430 X-Dreamer I 
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My System
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CPUMotherboardOSMonitor
AMD X2 3800+ Gigabyte K8U-939 Windows XP Home Samsung SyncMaster 930B 
PowerCase
Antec True430 X-Dreamer I 
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post #4 of 119
Boy I cant get over this sweet guide! JUST SAY NO! TO SLOPPY CASES!

hehehe.

Is this thing sticky yet?
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post #5 of 119
Very nice guide ... I like the choice in color as well !!
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post #6 of 119
Congrats on a very thorough guide! Maybe one day when I can afford to get a decent power supply Ill do this. Not gonna waste time on my crappy turbolink. Anywho you did an awesome job. Oh and I love the push pull pic!
    
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post #7 of 119
Yeah great job archer_456 Stickied.
post #8 of 119
Thread Starter 
If anyone uses this guide and sleeves their cables, post back and let me know how it turned out.
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post #9 of 119
Quote:
Originally Posted by archer_456
If anyone uses this guide and sleeves their cables, post back and let me know how it turned out.
Thanks for a great guide.

I had already sleeved my PSU, but I didnt think of burning the sleeve after cutting it to make it easier... I'll be using this idea next time I sleeve a wire.
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post #10 of 119
I was just wondering, I like the look but I dont want to change all these pins ect, cant I just put on the sleeve without doing all the other crap? Or do I HAVE to change the pins ect on it....

cheers
ARkanoid
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